I have a 91 KDX200 that I'm fixing to be my main bike. I'm ready to buy the sprocket and chain set up now but I need some input on what to get. What would you recommend for a 215lb rider doing trail riding in the hills that doesn't have a lot of hill climbs, if that makes sense. I'm not really concerned about the brand at this point. I'm really just looking for the teeth count of both front and rear and the plus and minuses of them.
THanks,
John
Sprocket set up
- k.d.x.
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- m0rie
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Get a 12t and 13t front and a 47t rear sprocket. Then you can change between the two fronts to adjust the gearing for what suites you best.
1989 KDX 200
2007 TTR-50E
2007 TTR-50E
- wanaride
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12/47 makes a noticeable improvement on hills as compared to 13/47. Well, noticeable for me anyway, but without a good rear tire it doesn't matter too much what ratio you are running.
Another point to consider...a 108 link chain will fit either of these ratios (12/47 or 13/47) and you can buy a 108 link chain off-the-shelf with no cutting required.
Another point to consider...a 108 link chain will fit either of these ratios (12/47 or 13/47) and you can buy a 108 link chain off-the-shelf with no cutting required.
I love someone with autism!
2006 KTM 250XCW
2003 KDX200
2006 CRF70
2006 KTM 50 Mini Adventure
2006 KTM 250XCW
2003 KDX200
2006 CRF70
2006 KTM 50 Mini Adventure
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This season I switched from a 12/47 to a 12/49 sprocket. With a 49 tooth rear sprocket I can run my 110 link 520 oring chain and it clears the chain guide. All I can say is what a difference it has made. I run every trail a gear higher. Where before on tight trails I would run 2nd and 1st I can now run 2nd & 3rd gear and the power band works excellent in this range. I can lift the front wheel anytime I want and the acceleration is way cool. I did of course lose some topend speed but not enough to care about. In the woods I still rule and my buddys with thier $6000 bikes hate me. ha ha!
A side benefit is when I was fitting the chain to the new rear sprocket I slid the rear wheel as far forward as it would go in the adjustment slots in order to get the correct chain slack. i was on # 5 and am now on #1. The benefit is because of the shortend wheel base due the axle being farther forward the bike now turns on a dime. Very very nimble. On a narrow trail I can just carve it up with ease.
The gearing chnge and new wheelbase has made it feel like a brand new bike. The new rear sprocket cost me 18 bucks.
A side benefit is when I was fitting the chain to the new rear sprocket I slid the rear wheel as far forward as it would go in the adjustment slots in order to get the correct chain slack. i was on # 5 and am now on #1. The benefit is because of the shortend wheel base due the axle being farther forward the bike now turns on a dime. Very very nimble. On a narrow trail I can just carve it up with ease.
The gearing chnge and new wheelbase has made it feel like a brand new bike. The new rear sprocket cost me 18 bucks.
00 kdx 200, the usual mods
99 CR 80 -sons
04 TTR 125- wifes
ZZR 600- wifes
ZZR 1200- mine (crashed and gone)
99 CR 80 -sons
04 TTR 125- wifes
ZZR 600- wifes
ZZR 1200- mine (crashed and gone)