kips question that needs to be answered?

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the trail rider
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kips question that needs to be answered?

Post by the trail rider »

I went for my first real ride on the kdx with the mods I did. the fmf desert pipe and the vfIII reed cage. there was some goods and some bads. first off the top end was very very good and peppy when it got there. but the low end bogged like crazy and wouldn't really get up and go. no pep before probably 5500 rpm. it was kind of like the reed valve was the only thing making it go at all until the higher rpm's, the bike did not like the higher gears in the low end either just kind of got worse. I couldn't feel low end but I sure could feel top end. I have not rebuilt the bike and it hasn't been torn down at all ever. I think it is the kips valve jammed open. It couldn't have been jetting. if it was it wouldn't have been that bad. if you think so here is my jetting. kdx220, stock carb, 145 main, 42 pilot needle in the 2nd clip position in relation to the top of the needle, and airscrew 1 and 3/4 turns out. carver and ski, and anyone else who knows or has close to the same setup help me out.or give me your take on the situation
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Colorado Mike
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Post by Colorado Mike »

why don't you check the operation of your KIPS? Also, If you say your bike has never been rebuilt, maybe it's time.
Mike

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'04 KDX220
the trail rider
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Post by the trail rider »

how do I do that. and yes It needs to be rebuilt.
get a lift, fat chicks can't jump!

when in doubt gas it!
kdennan
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Post by kdennan »

Get the service manual, Wiseco piston and bearing, Vesrah top-end gasket kit, Motion pro torque wrench adapter (14ft. lbs. converted for cylinder head bolts) and there you go. The service manual will also remind you that the KIPS valve actuator shaft nut is LEFT HAND THREAD! Slide the boot down and put a wrench on the shaft to stabilize it while you remove the nut---LEFT HAND THREAD! If it still acts up after that, then you should evaluate the jetting. It does'nt sound too far off right now. I like to err on the rich side so I get good hook up down low so the only difference in my jetting is the clip is in the stock 3rd position from the top and my air screw is at 1.25 out. Airbox lid removed--- On when it drops below 55 degrees (farenheit)
P.S. Make sure you put the arrow on the Wiseco piston facing front. and follow all of the other recommendations like stuffing a rag around the con-rod in the bottom end so something does'nt fall in! Put the right side circlip in before installing the piston. yaa daa yaa daa. Good luck... It is super easy. :grin:
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Post by Green Hornet »

Take the cover off (Rt. Side of Engine) where the Shaft goes. Staert the bike and rev. See if it (Claw) activates. If not ya got a problem. If so, turn off. Take your pipe off and the claw and manually move the gear looking inside with a flashlight. Look to see if the ports are opening & closing. If not ya got a problem. But a tear down might be more appropriate. That way you can give a good cleaning & rebuild
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the trail rider
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Post by the trail rider »

yeah I agree I just need to rebuild it,(new piston, gaskets, and clean and replace any other parts in their) break it in and then play with my jetting and if that doesn't solve the problem of my low end then I guess that I do not like my desert pipe. but I will rebuild it because it needs it anyway. hopefully I didn't break any kips parts but just have them stuck. hey green hornet didn't you have to replace a lot of your kips valvetrain. If so how much roughly did you spend on parts like the gears that i have probably stripped out.
get a lift, fat chicks can't jump!

when in doubt gas it!
the trail rider
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Post by the trail rider »

heres a question to you who have a 220 and a desert pipe. is the bike still have that low end snap for the most part similar to the stock pipe. just wondering because mine did not have it nowhere near what it use to except for the top end. if nothing is wrong,(I still dont know) then maybe I have the wrong pipe. but guys who have the same setup(motor working correctly) tell me what it did to your bike. thanks.
get a lift, fat chicks can't jump!

when in doubt gas it!
kdennan
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Post by kdennan »

I have the Desert pipe and Boyesen Power Reeds. I was not completely satisfied until I put the Fredette Torque Ring back in. I am not sure if the Woods pipe would be good. Jeff told me that it would fall flat and that the Desert pipe is good. You are in the same boat as I am though..... These guys here are going to tell you to get the carb bored and the head too. I am going to wait until next winter when I do the top end. I am going to send my kit out to Fredette though. After all, he is Mr. KDX!
For now, you can't beat $10 for the torque ring. I also geared my bike down to a 13-50. You have to get a 110 link chain.
the trail rider
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Post by the trail rider »

that could be part of the problem to gearing. all I know is that it needs a rebuild and I am going to. so after the rebuild I will truly figure if I like it. thanks.
get a lift, fat chicks can't jump!

when in doubt gas it!
Green Hornet
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Post by Green Hornet »

It was a $7 part.
"Growing Old is Mandatory, Growing Up is Optional"
2008 KLX450R
2008 DRZ400SM
2005 KDX 220R
1985 KDX 200A3
2005 KLX 125L (SONS)
2003 KTM 50SX Pro Jr
B Senior # 254/0092

http://sponsorhouse.loopd.com/Members/R ... fault.aspx
Thanks to my 2008 Sponsers:
Dunlop, SteelMX, Amsoil, Simpson, Pro Works Racing, Pro Moto Billet, SLAP Energy,Boyesen, Rhino Stands, SixSixOne/SunLine Moto for your support.
John W Read Jr
the trail rider
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Post by the trail rider »

thanks.
get a lift, fat chicks can't jump!

when in doubt gas it!
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Colorado Mike
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Post by Colorado Mike »

search the forum for KIPS and read my method to check the operation, it doesn't involve the right side, so you don't risk tearing that gasket. If your bike hasn't been rebuilt, chances are the KIPS is all gunked up with spooge, so clean the system when you rebuild.
Mike

Life's tough, it's even tougher if you're stupid.
'04 KDX220
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