steering stem bearing questions

[bws2]

I'm planning to replace my steering stem bearings on my '01 KDX 200.

I saw a video of a guy (how2wrench) that said some aftermarket bearing kits
can present a problem (compared to OEM) because the seals can have a gap between
where the inside metal part of the seal meets the bearing.

This can result in the seal actually contacting the bearing cage when the steering is torqued down.
The problem he says is the it can cause the steering to be stiff. His suggestion is to add a narrow washer between
the bearing and the seal to take up the slack and keep the seal from compressing.

Have you guys ever heard of this, or encountered this issue?
FWIW - I bought my kit from Boss Bearing.

My second question is how hard is it to drive the new bearing races in using the old race as a driver?
I've seen race drivers that can be purchased, but wanted to get some feedback on whether they're worth the price,
or not.

As always, I appreciate all the help you guys have provided me.

BWS

[bufftester]

I've not had that problem with the Boss bearings I used on my hybrid (KX125 frame), but a lot of folks swear by OEM for bearings just to be on the safe side. I have don both ways-use the old race as a driver, and used a race driver tool. If you aren't replacing several stem bearings a year then the tool is overkill, but it does make it nice and easy.

[SS109]

I used All Balls I think and had no issue with it being tight. Even if it did tighten things to a degree I can't possibly imagine it would be more than what lots of us have done in tightening the bearings more than usual to help control the front end (ie: poor man's steering damper).

You can use a 2x4 (using the 4 side) to drive the races flush and then add the old race on top of the new race and drive them the rest of the way.

[kdxsully]

I used all balls too and didn’t have a problem. I used the old races to drive the new ones in. Freeze and heat method made it easier, but it was still annoying. If I did it again I’d buy or make myself a press.

[pumpguy]

For driving bearings onto shafts, the recommended way is to use a piece of pipe as a driver. In this case, the pipe needs to be longer than the steering stem, and the pipe must contact the inner race only.

Another way is to heat the bearing to 300*F. Any source of non-flame heat will work. These days I would try a heat gun. To measure the temperature, an IR gun is handy. There are also Temp Sticks available which are crayons that melt at a given temperature.

[kdxsully]

I think the “proper” way to install the lower stem bearing is to press the stem out, install the bearing, and press it back in.

[SS109]

I thought we were talking about installing the races that fit in the frame?

[KDXGarage]

Kawasaki has a bearing puller for the lower steering bearing. Just run it by a dealer that has the OEM tool. I've got one, but have never got around to using it.

Thank you to eBay so I did not have to pay full price (around $350 YIKES!!)

[bws2]

Kawasaki has a bearing puller for the lower steering bearing. Just run it by a dealer that has the OEM tool. I've got one, but have never got around to using it.

Thank you to eBay so I did not have to pay full price (around $350 YIKES!!)

Thanks KDX. I'm planning to having a mechanic remove the lower stem bearing and drive the new one on.

[KDXGarage]

I suggest one throw a touch of anti-seize on the steering stem to inner bearing area. Maybe it will help get it off for the next time (whether you or the next guy)