No Clymer for any KDX newer than 1988. They made two manuals for KDX's, 1979 - 1981 and then 1986 - 1988 KDX200 (something like that).
Maybe that's the reason I got the Cyclepedia. At least it kind of points you in the right direction.
See how many clicks out on rebound the shock is at. BE GENTLE. DO NOT crank on it. Fully clockwise is most resistance. Counterclockwise is least resistance.
Pretty sure I'm 10-12 clicks out. With 3 bikes it's gets confusing which is what. Will double check.
IF, IF, IF you have the correct sag set, then measure the spring length before disassembly.
I set it at 3". Seems like a lot of preload to get it there. Will measure the preload when I get out to the garage right after lunch.
BTW- I did lower the bike about 2". I used OEM dog bones from my son's KLX 250 that I had laying around. THANKS!
Dog Bones KLR KLX KDX.jpg (424.04 KiB) Viewed 3030 times
KDXGarage wrote: ↑10:45 am May 15 2020
Harbor Freight standing mat?? :-)
You got it! I use that stuff everywhere. Used 3M adhesive to double up the mats to stand on at my work bench, or to lay on when working on the linkage of the KDX. Glued some to the top of my Crasftsman rolling tool cabinet to help protect it. Pretty sure that's where the pic of the dog bones was taken. I used A LOT of it in my workout room here at the house, and carry a leftover piece in the back of my truck to kneel on.
Just got to the shock, been working in the yard. I'm 8 clicks out (rebound and compression) and the preload is a little over 1". Also measured the spring. Thanks for the tip!
HA HA! Great minds think alike. At my previous residence, I had it covering the whole garage floor. It helped to keep bolts and washers from running off. When a piece got oil stained or damaged, just replace that one piece. :-)
Place the screwdriver by the vise, within arm's reach. Use two hands and compress the shock completely. With one hand, let go and grab the screwdriver. GENTLY, turn it all the way clockwise. If the shock is working properly with a good nitrogen charge, it should stay locked down.
Did all this. Holding for the most part. The rod is ever so slowly moving back out. Watching the bump stop.
This morning the rod appears to be fully extended. From the outside the shock appears to be in good shape. The bump stop has a few cracks and is easy to scratch a chunk off with my finger nail. At this point my game plan will be fresh fluid, a new bump stop and a nitro recharge.
It could really use a new seal head, piston band and piston o-ring. If the bumper is that wore out and cracked, then the insides are worn, too. The bladder may still be OK, but look for wear on the sides. If the pressure is low, it will wear one three sides, rubbing against the body, thinning the rubber out from wear.
Buy a new KYB nut also. Red Loctite at 25 ft-pounds.
Thanks for that information. I see where Pivot works has a rebuild kit that includes everything you suggested. Going to try and wait until the parts come in from RMATV before I start this project.
Technical Touch is the USA distributor of KYB parts, made in Japan. If you are wanting parts as good as stock, then check them out. You can get them at local dealers through Tucker or Western Power Sports. Also, most parts are on eBay. Just look through the Technical Touch catalog to get the part numbers.
KDXGarage wrote: ↑12:59 pm May 16 2020
Technical Touch is the USA distributor of KYB parts, made in Japan. If you are wanting parts as good as stock, then check them out. You can get them at local dealers through Tucker or Western Power Sports. Also, most parts are on eBay. Just look through the Technical Touch catalog to get the part numbers.
Will do. I now remember a thread where you recommended Technical Touch for the bump stop. Good to know I can get everthing through them and I like the idea that they're as good as stock.
I went to Technical Touch USA and found they only listed KDX250 for the years 1991-94. So I goggled some more and came across a thread from 2014 where you posted; "1989 and newer USA KDX shock parts are all the same (besides the KDX50 of course)"
Am I right to assume the parts you listed above will need to ordered for the KDX250 with any of the listed years?
BlkDakDave wrote: ↑10:13 am May 15 2020No Clymer for any KDX newer than 1988. They made two manuals for KDX's, 1979 - 1981 and then 1986 - 1988 KDX200 (something like that).
Maybe that's the reason I got the Cyclepedia. At least it kind of points you in the right direction.
See how many clicks out on rebound the shock is at. BE GENTLE. DO NOT crank on it. Fully clockwise is most resistance. Counterclockwise is least resistance.
Pretty sure I'm 10-12 clicks out. With 3 bikes it's gets confusing which is what. Will double check.
IF, IF, IF you have the correct sag set, then measure the spring length before disassembly.
I set it at 3". Seems like a lot of preload to get it there. Will measure the preload when I get out to the garage right after lunch.
BTW- I did lower the bike about 2". I used OEM dog bones from my son's KLX 250 that I had laying around. THANKS!
Dog Bones KLR KLX KDX.jpg
Great info on the dog bones. My kdx also has the 119mm dog bones so finally I know where they came from
kdxdazz wrote: ↑05:04 pm May 17 2020
Great info on the dog bones. My kdx also has the 119mm dog bones so finally I know where they came from
Glad to hear I was able to help out! Now if I could only remember where the aluminum ones came from and what bike they were meant for. Even if they don't get used for dog bones, I'll eventually put that metal to use somehow.
Well, I didn't wait for all the parts to come in before taking everything apart. The bladder snap ring was off in like 2 seconds. The shock body snap ring was a royal pain. But, you know what's harder than removing the snap ring on the shock body? Trying to a rubber bump stop in stock. Found one (OEM) for $54, but I can not justify that kind of coin for a chuck of rubber. The Factory Connection bump stop for my bike (about $30) seem to be out of stock and on back order. I went ahead and ordered one from TT Shop with an estimated ship date at the end of May. I guess during the wait I can start another project or two. Time to drop the swingarm and linkage on the 220R for some bearing maintenance!
With this South Texas heat, I'll be moving a little slower that normal.
