when to replace rear wheel bearings

[bws2]

I have a 2001 KDX200 and I'm wondering if my rear wheel bearings need to be replaced.

I had the rear wheel off recently and tried spinning the rear bearings
by putting my finger into the hub turning the spacer. It seemed to stick a little, but it did spin.

Is this an indication that the bearings should be replaced?

[doakley]

Probably. Not real expensive nor hard to change.

[bufftester]

If they have never been changed then it most definitely is time. It's not expensive or difficult and can be done in relatively short time.

[KDXGarage]

Just remember the circlip!

[bws2]

Thank you for the responses. Do you guys suggest I use OEM bearings or aftermarket?

[KDXGarage]

It's not our money, so OEM all the way.

Look at the prices, then talk to your wallet about quality and price.

[SS109]

I always prefer OEM bearings for all critical applications. However, I currently have All Balls and Pivot Works in both my KDX's wheels. They have lasted 7+ years and over a 1000+ hours so far. Admittedly, I live in a fairly dry climate so that probably has a lot to do with their longevity.

[bws2]

It's not our money, so OEM all the way.

Look at the prices, then talk to your wallet about quality and price.

So I looked up OEM prices vs aftermarket. I had no idea there was such a big difference.

Looks like I could buy three sets of aftermarkets for the price of OEM.

[KDXGarage]

Yep. Quality costs money.

[pumpguy]

Sorry guys, but I have to present a different view.

These wheel bearings are pretty much generic items and are commonly used in electric motors, lawn tractor blade spindle housings, snowmobile suspension and many other applications. I use them in the 3450 RPM pump motors I repair, and these have a typical service life of 10 years. I'm guessing at least 10,000 hours of operation. What kills them in the stuff I see is leaking shaft seals that allow water to get in and contaminate the lubricant. The pump side bearing will be shot while the opposite end bearing is fine.

Its the same with our bike wheel bearings. When I need new wheel bearings, I make note of the markings (6202, 6203, or whatever) on the bearing and give this information to my bearing supplier, but tell them I want the bearing to be DOUBLE SEALED. IMO, this is most important. These seals are pretty much the same as those in our engines and transmissions, but should not be confused with shielded bearings, which are only dust shields and do not have these lip seals. Then specify you want a name brand bearing like SKF, NTN, FAG, Fafnir, or similar.

And yes, I do grease them the same as if they were standard open bearings. Can't hurt, and helps to keep contamination out.

Most large metropolitan areas have bearing and power transmission suppliers. Motion Industries and Bearing Headquarters are some that come to mind. My own supplier is Precision Bearing Co. in Orland Park, IL. Phone 847 559 9961. Usual disclaimer, just a satisfied customer.

You might be surprised at the price difference compared to OEM, and with name brand bearings, you know they will be quality, whereas from aftermarket suppliers selling to the motorbike market, who knows? After all, they are just buying from the lowest bidder and reselling to us.

Hope this is helpful information to our members.

[javjacob]

I go OEM on that stuff. I steer clear of All Balls, Pivot Works and all the other aftermarket because most the time they use cheap Chinese bearings and seals. IMO nothing made in China is worth the plastic wrapper its wrapped in.

[B737driver]

try to move the rear wheel side to side/up and down...if there’s slop...replace them. This was my indication of worn bearings a couple of months ago.

[kdxsully]

Pumpguy has a point here though. If you know anything about bearings, you can probably get the numbers and go with a reputable brand like skf, ntn, koyo, TimKen, etc and get much better than Chinese quality but lower price than oem. Do make sure they aren’t specially made bearings.