Muh rusty nuts and bolts... (corrosion prevention)

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'03KDX200
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Muh rusty nuts and bolts... (corrosion prevention)

Post by '03KDX200 »

Hello gang. I just bought a delightful 2003 KDX 200, and I'm totally in love with it. I've only ridden it a couple of short times but I can tell this is THE bike for me, and the way I ride. It's also my first two-stroke dirt bike, which is exciting. Anyways, I bought this bike from a guy right on the Oregon coast, and it has orange rust and white rust everywhere. It's probably spent it's whole life sitting in that moist, salty air. The few bolts I've removed have had red rusty heads and plenty of white corrosion all down the threads. lol this isn't ideal of course, but hey this will give me practice on how to clean and renew my fasteners.

My question is two-fold:

1) I've read that PB blaster is a good rust preventative. So after I clean the corrosion off of my fasteners (with a brass brush or wheel), I figure I can brush on some PB blaster onto them all so that will prevent further corrosion. But what about the threads deep down in the part? I reckon those have just as much corrosion in them as the threads of the fasteners do, so I was thinking of using a circular brass brush chucked into my drill, along with some more PB Blaster, to loosen and remove corrosion that's deep in there, in the threads. Does anyone have a better way of doing this or does that sound like the easiest way?

2) I want to use LocTite on most or all of my fasteners of course, but I'm worried that the layer of PB Blaster will reduce the effectiveness of the LocTite or prevent it from setting up (harden from liquid). If that's the case, how do people prevent rust and corrosion without compromising their LocTite?

Thanks forum! I look forward to doing maintenance articles for this forum on the KDX in the near future. In fact I might do one on this very subject if I find the answers I'm looking for. I'm sure a lot of people that live in salty, moist environments would love to learn about this stuff.
"I'd rather have a bottle in front of me, than a frontal lobotomy."
kdxdazz
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Re: Muh rusty nuts and bolts... (corrosion prevention)

Post by kdxdazz »

The bolts should be factory rust proofed. If restoring bolts you can heat them and dip the in oil or beeswax for that factory look, plenty of videos on YouTube for that. Threads only need cleaning and antiseize. Loctite is not needed
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Re: Muh rusty nuts and bolts... (corrosion prevention)

Post by KDXGarage »

Sorry to read that.

Look around on Google for sandblasting them, then having them re-coated with zinc by a place that specializes in it.

If you just hit them with a wire wheel, then don't put lube on the threads. I do use blue Loctite.

Someone will be along with experience on buying one of the BOLT or similar Chinese bolt kits with a variety of fasteners. I have never tried it myself.
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TwistedRoot
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Re: Muh rusty nuts and bolts... (corrosion prevention)

Post by TwistedRoot »

KDXGarage wrote: 12:57 am Feb 29 2020 Someone will be along with experience on buying one of the BOLT or similar Chinese bolt kits with a variety of fasteners. I have never tried it myself.
Bought a BOLT kit on ebay for $14. Excellent deal.
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kdxsully
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Re: Muh rusty nuts and bolts... (corrosion prevention)

Post by kdxsully »

That is a deal, I mostly see them around 30 or 40.

Some people know how to replate them too. I think clatter did that.
Last edited by kdxsully on 05:36 pm Mar 03 2020, edited 1 time in total.
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Kdxfan4130
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Re: Muh rusty nuts and bolts... (corrosion prevention)

Post by Kdxfan4130 »

A tap & die set would clean up help you to remove the corrosion and rust off the threads. For the threaded bosses, use a thread tap preferably a bottoming tap. But that doesn’t get the rust off the rest of the bolt. My dad has a tumbler with walnut shells to polish his brass shell casings for reloading ammo. That does a nice job making it shine right up. You could mix a mild solution of Muratic acid and water to remove the rust but mild so as to not remove the zinc coating which would make it even more rust prone in the future, that worked great on some used Buchanan spoke nipples i had. I have purchased a bolt kit replacing the old hardware, and you have the used bolts in case you lose one on the trail. I don’t use loctite on every fastener, some I have to remove occasionally for maintenance also I don’t use a rust preventing oils on every bolt. Retorqing non loctited nuts & bolts is part of prepping.
As far as rust prevention, I’ve had good luck with acf50 I got from work. Wd40, liquid wrench, pb blaster, kroil will do also. I bought a couple raw unfinished hpr19 expansion chambers and it keeps those from rusting & looking unprepped. Nothing is uglier than a rusted raw pipe
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Re: Muh rusty nuts and bolts... (corrosion prevention)

Post by PacificNWRider »

It all depends on how far you want to go with it, but I have soaked all sorts of things in hot oil, beeswax, linseed oil, or even just smearing some paraffin or automotive paste wax on them. careful doing this with bolts that have torque value, apply to the head of bolt after installation. I would assume it would take many years for that to happen AGAIN, but if you are located on the coast and the bike will be exposed then I probably do something above. edit: i haven't had much luck with stuff like WD-40 and other sprays as far as prolonged exposure to rain or elements.
'91 KDX 250 D1
'03KDX200
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Re: Muh rusty nuts and bolts... (corrosion prevention)

Post by '03KDX200 »

Thanks everyone! Great tips. That's the info I was looking for. Luckily, I live in Bend, Oregon, which is high desert which is nice and dry all year long, so corrosion like this won't be an ongoing issue. I love this bike though I want to keep it forever.
"I'd rather have a bottle in front of me, than a frontal lobotomy."
PacificNWRider
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Re: Muh rusty nuts and bolts... (corrosion prevention)

Post by PacificNWRider »

I am very familiar with central oregon desert. In that case you will be fine once you get them cleaned up. Blow the holes the bolts were in with compressed air to get out the corrosion dust, or you can thread chase them, blowing them out should be good enough. Wire wheel the fasteners, they should look nearly new, Then re-install them dry, with or w/o loctite your preference. I would just use some cheap turtle wax or something on the heads if your looking to protect them for a while. Just re-apply it like you would your car after a good washing. I do this on all my outdoor equipment & vehicles. It will help the plastics stay nice. Nothing like some good wax to protect from sun/elements, and helps things wash clean very easy.

You can also use something like Plexus, which is what I use on my motorcycles and gear, but it is pretty expensive.

Here's a snippet of the sales jargon-
"Plexus Plastic Cleaner Protectant Polish was originally developed for use in the aviation industry for cleaning and protecting aircraft windshields
and painted surfaces. This makes it ideal for helmets, faceshields, windshields, sunglasses and goggles

Features:
Special formula leaves a lustrous, anti-static, anti-fog finish that resists fingerprints
Suitable for all motorcycles, watercraft, snowmobiles and cars
Simply spray on and wipe off"
'91 KDX 250 D1
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