KDXRIDER.NET

If not a 35mm 200 carb on a 220, certainly a 36mm modified carb.

Jet it like a 200...pretty much.

1200-3500':

40/150/C-DEK-4/#7TV

Maybe 152 @ sea level. That doesn't apply to sand!!

You've read about 220 head inconsistencies? Do yourself a BIG favor and have RB-Designs 'fix' the both of them.

200 (35mm) carb works great on a 220. A RB modded carby works better though. Send in your head at the same time for a little RB lovin. The difference is pretty amazing...

Have RBD work on your carb & Head. Got mine back and tried it out. I have a couple of complaints though. I now have to sit forward over the tank to keep the F#%KING Wheel on the Ground, 4th gear wheelie is not high enough because the FING Tire is spinning on the asphalt and I have to watch how I turn the throttle, thing goes Goddam Vertical Now. Otherwise he does nice work
Thanks Ron. The thing screams now.

Yes... RB's work is quite a eye opener!

#7 slide is what Ron cuts when you get your carb modded. If your carb isn't modded, I don't think it's nessesary....

The few folks that complain about it (GH) notwithstanding ....

There's one in every crowd, 'eh?


The OEM slide is a #5. Yes, Mr. Black's modification includes cutting the slide to a #7. The lower the number, the 'richer' that throttle range in this case. A 5mm cut slide is more rich than a 7mm cut slide.

As far as different slides in the OEM carb: I never had the opportunity to try that. Still, I would just about guarantee that performance would improve with a more lean slide in the OEM carb. But...considering that buying a slide will cost you about $70, why bother? Yes, you can have your slide cut..but why bother with that?

It would make a difference I'm sure, but it's hardly worth the $$ or the trouble considering the other choice you have.

Some riders cut their own slides. That's fine if they know what they're doing. Personally I would never attack my carb slide with a file. The thing is plated for crin' out loud! No...not in the cut area, but still!! I don't want a file on my slide.

There is considerably more to it than boring the body to 36mm btw.

There IS a reason folks here harp on it so much and SO often: It works. It works really really good!!!

Maybe GH will trade you............

Hell No. I did't say I did'nt like ittttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttt

Well...you SAID you had 'complaints'!!

canyncarvr wrote:Well...you SAID you had 'complaints'!!

I meant compliments

I cut my slide on my stock 200 carb.....used a Dremel. It was nice and shiny just like the plated area (it seemed anyway). I started out shooting for about a #6 cut and worked off of posted pictures. I gradually worked it up to about a #7 cut as I continued with my jetting tests. It worked real well. A #7 cut (or #7 slide) really made my off idle response nice and crisp. If you have the usual mods on your bike I would highly recommend going with the #7 slide (throttle valve). I think sudco.com has them for around $60.00. Remember, our carbs use an Air Striker type slide...even though our carbs are not Air Strikers. BTW, I recently went to a RB Air Striker and just put my new VF3 on today and did some initial testing. So far I'm getting great results. Still haven't found the SSS yet.

FTR...I DO realize the 'complaint' part was TIC (tongue in cheek?)

Ha! I knew I'd get a slide filer to bite!!!

Do note I didn't say it couldn't be done...just that I wouldn't do mine is all.

...of course it can be done.

re: SSS

Did your read bradf's post on it? That's the best write-up of it so far, I think. One thing to keep in mind...allow the bike to 'settle' in to a new AS adjustment. Ride it for a bit after an adjustment before you decide where it is either does or does not work. You will know it when you find it...and it IS there. It's well worth the hunt, too.

Rhodester: Glad to hear you got a Ron Black special!! Gee...and DF3s to boot? And....'great results'?? That's good to hear froom a tuner as picky as YOU seem to be!!

Thanks for the input on slide cuts in OEM PWKs!

CC, I haven't read the bradf post on the SSS (I don't think, anyway). I think that was my error maybe (not letting the setting "settle in"). I'll keep working on it.

I've noticed that with the V Force 3 reeds I can jet 1 step leaner on the pilot and main without the dreaded hesitation/flat spot setting in when I wick it (as compared to the RAD Valve). I can now jet crisper for more power without the side effects that I had before. That's what I call "great results"!!
So far I'm at 40, DEK/4, 152, TV#7, AS 7/8 out, in the low 60s temp range and 2600'. I'm getting some spooge so I'm looking forward to finding that evasive SSS to see what happens to the spooge. From my past efforts I think most of my spooge is coming from the idle circuit.

Rhodester - FWIW seem to recall CC having a bit of a hesitation/flat spot when he had a RAD valve. Something along the lines of it disappearing when he started to run a DF2.

Wherever your SSS is, it's not 7/8 out.

Your jetting sounds pretty close..but that's just 'cuz it's close to mine!

I'm running a 38 pilot at the moment..15-4500', temps lower...upper 40's mid 50's.

Crank the thing out to 2 1/2, run for a bit, make your first moves further out by 1/16's. It's not just off-idle response that will change, but a large change in higher gears...say short-shifting thru 3rd at/about 1/2 throttle.

It's there. You'll like it.

How do you like the 'C' needle? Or...you bein' a girlieman and all (like me, so I've been told) have you tried a 'C' but prefer the 'D'?

If you said elsewhere, I don't recall.

Other stuff I don't recall....are you running a fine(r) wire plug? Seems you are. Try gapping it to about .030" if you haven't tried that yet.

RAD flat? I know it didn't do much of anything. That's why I sent it to someone else!! (Hey..they WANTED it!!)

I'm running a BR8EG (if'n I remember right). I think it's gapped at .028.

Ron sent the Air Striker with the CEK/3. On my short initial ride it had a hit in the lower mid range with the CEK. When I did my testing with the stock carb the CEK had a weaker bottom end (sort of flat). CEK/4 was just too rich throughout most of the RPM range. The DEK was noticeably stronger on the bottom. It also had less of any hesitation or flat spot problems. With the DEK/4 on the RB Air Striker it surges slightly as I go though the bottom end at WOT. DEK/3 surged even slightly more than DEK/4. The DEK doesn't really have a hit, though, just a slight surge.

I started my air screw testing at 2 1/2 out and made (relatively large) 1/4 turn changes, in, to just see what would happen with any hesitations when wicking it at low RPMs under a light load. I got hesitations a fair amount of the time until I got back in the 7/8 out range (which is where it was when I received it from Ron). I know I'm slightly rich on my pilot circuit with the air screw at 7/8, but I am getting a hesitation-less pull from the bottom up (even if I have to put up with some spooge). As it warms up and the main jet circuit becomes richer (152) I'll be interested to see if I can lean out that air screw and still not have the hesitation because of the richness of the main jet compensating for it (remember, I'm talking WOT here). Don't worry, I'll still be looking for that SSS during this process. I'm looking forward to finding it.

Yeah. You're right about the DEK. Unfortunately, the CEKers just don't get it. 'They' equate 'hit' with 'good'. It's not. Oh well...it takes all kinds.

Put your plug to .030". Try some toluene at 5% (a quart in 5 gal of fuel). Try about 2 9/16s. You'll find it...and be glad you did!

With the AS out that far, it seems other circuits are bleeding over...effecting the bottom end of things. A 38 would be worth trying, too.

...you're running a -30? I don't recall. 'Ya needs one'a those, too!!! The -35 is way richer with the same jetting compared to the -30.

...I done said that too many times...repeated for I'm not sure what reason. 'Cuz I get paid by the word I guess....

j/k!

No matter what jetting you use, there is still going to be a pipe-effect and a KIPS 'hit'. It's never going to be as languid (read 'b-o-r-i-n-g) as a 4-stroke.

Another 'you knew that' written for someone else to read, 'eh?

Have fun with it!!!

CC, I have a -30, but prefer the -35. What jetting changes do YOU make between the two pipes on your bike??

Where do I get Toluene (sounds like some kind of paint thinner)? Do I have to do anything with mixing my oil or jetting changes with Toulene? What kind of performance enhancement can I expect with it?

With the AS at 2 1/2 out (or more) do I need to worry about the screw working its way out due to virtually no tension on the little spring? Maybe I can preload it (like I've done to every other spring on the bike! ).

With the DEK the bottom end is so much improved that I'm going through rear tires faster than I ever did before... at least that's how it works on my bike.

'They' equate 'hit' with 'good'. It's not. Oh well...it takes all kinds.
Ya got that right.
I guess it depends on what terrian you ride. Personally I like the hit, but I have an idea of when its coming, so I can prepare and adjust before takeoff
I would say since RB did the Head Mod with the Carb Mod, I do notice a increased Bottom & Mid power spread as well as more rev out on the 220. I'm sure the VF3 also helped