Steering stem diameter???

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BJH
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Steering stem diameter???

Post by BJH »

Can anyone tell me what the steering stem diameter is at the bearings? Or the inner diameter of the bearings?
03' 220R
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Indawoods
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Post by Indawoods »

Top or bottom? They ARE different.... at least on my 95 200 they are. SO unless you want my diameters... I won't tell ya. And then I might not tell ya anyway. I can't find my durn micrometer!!!! :cry:
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Post by canyncarvr »

They are different.

I haven't looked..but generally buykawasaki.com parts diagrams list the spec of the bearings used...ID/OD and length.

That won't tell you what the STEM is..there's a bit of space allowed for things to be pressed on. What are you after? Bearing size or stem size?

Good luck getting the bottom bearing from other than Kawi. I talked to two different bearing outfits that could get the bearing...but not with the required seal (bottom bearing).

OK...I looked myself....'03 220r:

Bottom: 92116-1069 BEARING-ROLLER,HI-CAP32006JRRS

Top: 92047-017 RACE,ROLLER,32005JR RS

In this case I don't see what I was talking about..like:

Swing arm bearing: 92046-1118 BEARING-NEEDLE,TA202715ZE

In THAT case the 202715 is the measurement numbers of that bearing.

32005JR? I don't know what that means (other than the part number of course). A bearing outfit could get you ID from that number.

Use the best grease you can get! Your common chassis grease is NOT that grease. Some have reported good luck using a marine application grease (waterproof) from BelRay.

Sorry...not to be painfully obvious..but you know about using the OLD race you took out to seat the NEW race, right? It, a block of wood and a small sledge are all you need to put it back together. And you know that 'tight' is not good for a tapered roller bearing when you put it back together? There's a procedure for seating/installing tapered rollers. Same as older car wheel bearings, if that helps.

Again, not to impugn wrenching skills. If you know all about that...peachy!

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BJH
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Post by BJH »

canyncarvr wrote:Again, not to impugn wrenching skills. If you know all about that...peachy!
I do know about seating tapered bearings. Crank down to seat at X to seat then back off to X for running clearance.I also know they need to be packed before installation. No impingement taken :wink:

What I didn't know was that the upper and lower bearings are different.

I guess I should explain my reasoning for asking this question. I'm lazy. Ok seriously I was hoping to get the stem diameters without tearing it down so that I could see what it will take to swap some conventional (non-USD) Suzook twin chamber Showas onto my KDX.

I was hoping that the diameters were close enough for a direct bolt on swap (ya right that would be too easy) or at least close enough that I could jig grind the Suzook stem down slightly to fit the KDX bearings. That way I wouldn't have to change the races. The KDX bearings are practically new.

I already have the Suzook stuff torn apart so I can measure them easily.

Thanks for the part numbers though. I didn't even think to attack it from that angle. DUH!!! on my part. Did I mention the wife works for Timken Bearings? Maybe she can cross refference those part numbers to get the dimensions???

Ok ya I'm lazy :butthead:

Oh ya, grease... I have some high dollar synthetic water-proof bearing grease made by Mobil 1 I was hoping to use that. Good idea???

By the way CC...How is that swingarm bushing thing you did working? I'm curious. The plastic you selected for the job "should" work out very well.
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Post by canyncarvr »

Be moving the assy back-n-forth ( lock to lock..supporting it from the bottom) while you're doing the seating/tightenting part...right?

There are a couple more things than stem diameter to figure in...you probably already have.

The length of the stem, the fit of the kdx stem to the Suzu bottom clamp hole, how the Suzu top clamp will fit, what the steering stop situation is going to be, wheels, brakes (and actuators)..stuff like that. That's all good?

Hi dollar sounds good. Syn sounds good. Water-proof sounds good. It's all good.

It's the lower shock bushing. It's fine so far. Checked it at 150 miles (or so). It was fine. Wet, but fine. The machinist said wet was good for the nylarod. That was the problem with the bearing part of the deal. Wet was NOT good...and the oem seals didn't do diddle for keeping water out. Well...they WERE grease seals, not water seals. Ha. Water seals. Ain't that funny?

Glad I neither impugned nor impinged! Two at one blow!

IF your wife finds a cross for the bottom stem bearing WITH seal...puhleeze tell us all about it!

You have the facilities to press the stems out? Takes a purty good press.

Good luck! As long as green is now yellow, might as well keep it all in the fambly!!
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Post by BJH »

Uh lock to lock? Support for the bottom...Ok maybe I don't know as much as I thought I did. :oops:

Believe me there are lots of things to figure out. I'm just in the initial investigative stages at this point. The steering stop "seems" to be good. But I haven't measured it yet. Steering stem length hasn't been checked yet but it is on the list.

I'm REALLY hoping that I can use the Suzook steering stem with the KDX bearings. If the stem is close I may be able to machine it to where it needs to be.

In fact I'm hoping to use the KDX wheel and brakes but I seriously doubt that will happen.

I have a bunch of EBAY!!! scrounging to do. Here is what my list looks like so far. There may be more but that's what it looks like at this point.

1- Entire front wheel assembly rim, spokes, hub, and bearings
2- Front wheel spacers
3- Front brake rotor
4- Front brake caliper
5- Front brake caliper holder / arm
6- Steering stem bearings Kawi / Suzook...
7- Front brake master cylinder
8- Front brake lever and perch
9- Front brake line
10- Front fender black or green UFO, Acerbis, etc.
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Post by Indawoods »

I am going to HAVE to find my bike salvage yard list and post it. It is quite extensive. I think you will get better deals through them.
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Post by BJH »

Groovy! I'm all about better deals :supz:

Besides EBAY!!! is dry right now. I don't understand it. The stuff was all over the place when I started looking into doing this and now...Nada nonya nyet.
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Post by fuzzy »

Good luck! As long as green is now yellow, might as well keep it all in the fambly!!
Pretty much the same thing, different color these days!! Thank god the KDX doesn't fall into that category!!!
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Post by KDXGarage »

Wait until it warms up for eBay parts to warm up. I have been watching for a couple of years now. The parts availability will go up when the thermometer goes up.
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Post by canyncarvr »

re: 'maybe I don't ..'

Don't mean to be cryptic. You want to be rolling/moving the bearings while they are being seated is all. If you could move them 360º (like a wheel) that would be good, but you can't. The 'lock to lock' part is merely a reference to how far you can move the assy.

re: support

After the initial tightening to seat the bearings the nut is backed off and then re-tightened to spec, as you said. During the backing off part you don't want the stem to drop (it is just hanging there) from where it's been seated to, so support it from the bottom.

re: tighten to spec

Nah! Not me. I know there is one, but I've surely never bothered with a torque wrench on tapered bearings. I don't want to give the impression I'm THAT picky and do everything by the book. After a few decades of working on 'stuff' I do have the slightest clue.....well, from time to time.

If you have the ability/capacity/tools to machine stems and things, I'm sure you could get it done. While I don't know the spec, I'd still bet the stem bases (what is pressed into the clamp) are not at all the same.

So, lathe it, trim it, cut it, grind it, thread it, shim it, engineer it to perfection!

Nah...the kdx wheel won't fit!! Don't know THAT either...but I'll bet'cha!!

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Post by BJH »

Ii sure hope I can use as many KDX parts as possible. The darn Suzook NOS stuff be spensive.
NOS caliper $129 to $225
NOS caliper hold $69
NOS Wheel (Excel), hub, spokes, spacers, and bearings...don't ask
NOS master cylinder $89
etc.etc. etc. Looks like it would be cheaper to locate a parts bike. :shock:
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Post by Indawoods »

What is the top diameter of the shocks? That's your only concern mounting them! Well... and width of the stock clamps....due to tire mountage.... You don't HAVE to use the 'zuki's T-clamps if you don't wanna....
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Post by BJH »

canyncarvr wrote: IF your wife finds a cross for the bottom stem bearing WITH seal...puhleeze tell us all about it!
Well so for all I know is that it's a Koyo bearing and has a very unusual taper angle of course. Still investigating.
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Post by BJH »

More on the shock diameter to come ski. They are much larger than the KDX'ers
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Post by KDXGarage »

BJH, what model and year Suzuki are the TC forks from?
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Post by canyncarvr »

Indawoods wrote:What is the top diameter of the shocks? That's your only concern mounting them!
I'm missing something. How is that the 'only' concern? They'd fit kind'a funny in the kdx clamps....
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Post by Indawoods »

Who said KDX clamps exclusively? There are a lot of different clamps that will fit that size fork. Right? Or am I missing something? :neutral:
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Post by KDXGarage »

Width of the wheel/axle/spacers

length of tubes

brake hose routing cable clamps

brake hose length

those are some quick things that come to mind
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Post by Indawoods »

Indawoods wrote:What is the top diameter of the shocks? That's your only concern mounting them! Well... and width of the stock clamps....due to tire mountage.... You don't HAVE to use the 'zuki's T-clamps if you don't wanna....
IS what I said...
brake hose mounting clamps, brake hose and the like is easy to fabricate.... no hill for a climber! :grin:
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