KDXRIDER.NET

Well I was unloading my kdx 220 the other day and noticed the rear wheel had play. Tried finding a video on utube for bearing replacement but couldn't find any specfic for the Kdx. The pivot works video mentioned a retainer ring remover tool by motion pro. Should I get this? I have never done this so need to know what tools I need? When I did my brute force 750 I just brought the hubs to a shop and had the old ones pressed out and new ones put in. There were no seals or retainer rings involved. I went with pivot works as they have a lifetime warranty and I assume the warranty is the same for dirt bike bearings as well. So again, what tools do I need for this job? Any tricks to make it easier? I checked for play on my 200 and that one is bad to so I'll be doing that one as well. Thanks Mike

did mine when i bought bike couple years ago before i had a manual.
i got a bit of the CRS(can't remember ****), so keep that in mind ....

i do not recalll needing any special tools. i do seem to vaguely recall a retaining ring, but again, no special tools.

i use a drift or a punch to knock them out from opposite side and threaded rod with sockets or washers to install.

i also used an aftermarket bearing kit. either all balls or pivot works.
i wouldn't count on any manufacturer giving a lifetime warranty on bearings used on a dirt bike - i may be wrong, but would be very surprised.
can't even see how they would stand behind a street bike wheel bearing for life.

circlip

look at the parts diagram and service manual

gently pry the rubber seal out of the new bearing without distorting it , pack the bearing with Bel-Ray waterproof grease and you wont need to replace for a long time.replace the seal of course

On the disc side pull off the oil seal, there's a circlip underneath. You can use a blind bearing puller to get them out, or a long screwdriver/punch/socket extension to drive them out from teh opposite side. Don't know about a lifetime on dirt bike wheel bearings, but I have used the PIvot Works one as well as the All Balls with equal results.

I have this bearing puller.
I get my bearings from a local bearing company.
Rear Bearings 6004-2rs Rear Seals 25X42X5

I always use a punch thru the hub to knock them out from the opposite sides, as mentioned (hitting the inner races). I keep the new bearings in the freezer while I'm doing this. Once out, heat the bearing bores in the hub, one at a time with a MAP gas or propane torch and the new bearing will almost fall right in (put some grease on the OD first). Use a large socket and hammer that only touches the outer race to finish seating it. I've also seen guys do the threaded rod with nuts/washers on either end and they tighten the rod to suck the bearings into the bore.

Don't remove the cover from the new sealed bearing and add more grease, this will only cause the bearing to run hot and fail prematurely (the extra grease will generate more friction and retain heat in the bearing rather than dissipate it. Not to mention probably mixing incompatible greases and having them break down and do absolutely nothing. Bearing manufacturers already determine the exact amount of grease for the longest life). If the existing bearings already have a lot of play in them, putting fresh grease isn't going to help anything; the rollers and races have worn, clearances have increased, and the stiffness is lost.

I like using Pivot Works brand because they give you a one time free replacement bearing set when they wear out (but you have send them the failed bearings before they send you the new ones lol). Ordering through a local bearing company like spl383 mentioned is a good idea too, that way you can get some really good stuff like SKF or Timken. You can get the part numbers from the old bearings/seals when you remove them.

Heat your rim with a propane torch, the bearings will need just a tap to fall out, freeze the new bearings overnight and they should go in fairly easy, use a socket to pound them in if you need to. The repacking with good grease is a very sound idea!

Tyl3r wrote:I always use a punch thru the hub to knock them out from the opposite sides, as mentioned (hitting the inner races). I keep the new bearings in the freezer while I'm doing this. Once out, heat the bearing bores in the hub, one at a time with a MAP gas or propane torch and the new bearing will almost fall right in (put some grease on the OD first). Use a large socket and hammer that only touches the outer race to finish seating it. I've also seen guys do the threaded rod with nuts/washers on either end and they tighten the rod to suck the bearings into the bore.

Don't remove the cover from the new sealed bearing and add more grease, this will only cause the bearing to run hot and fail prematurely (the extra grease will generate more friction and retain heat in the bearing rather than dissipate it. Not to mention probably mixing incompatible greases and having them break down and do absolutely nothing. Bearing manufacturers already determine the exact amount of grease for the longest life). If the existing bearings already have a lot of play in them, putting fresh grease isn't going to help anything; the rollers and races have worn, clearances have increased, and the stiffness is lost.

I like using Pivot Works brand because they give you a one time free replacement bearing set when they wear out (but you have send them the failed bearings before they send you the new ones lol). Ordering through a local bearing company like spl383 mentioned is a good idea too, that way you can get some really good stuff like SKF or Timken. You can get the part numbers from the old bearings/seals when you remove them.

+1. Couldn't have said it any better!