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Have any of you changed your brake lines to stainless steel braided brake lines? Have you noticed a difference?

A quick Youtube search shows people have mixed feelings about if this is necessary. All the videos I watched were for cars that have short rubber brake lines (the rest are rigid metal lines in the system). Where bikes have no hard lines, I wonder if it makes more of a difference on a motorcycle.

I was just thinking about the braided lines I bought for mine a few months ago from China off of eBay for less than $20 (both) and wondering if they'll make a difference or if I'll pull the brake and the line will shoot off from the fitting. I'm going to try them but I think I'll do just one and see how it holds up for a while. I typically go slow enough to hardly need brakes anyway. I was searching KDX 220 parts on eBay and couldn't pass em up when I saw the listing. Probably not the smartest part to cheap out on but I do feel like they should be closer to $20 than $120 considering how little money it must be for the fittings and a few feet of line.

Currently my front lever is squishy (technical term) and I I've put braided on other bikes and it definitely made a difference in lever feel. The stock ones (when old enough) expand under pressure. I believe every one of our KDX's should have new lines by now, braided or not considering the newest stock ones are twelve years old by now.

I have a braided rear line on my 93 and most definitely like it. Of course my stock line was so bad it split, so I'm comparing junk to a braided line, so of course the braided one feels better. Side note, the only way to replace an E-series rear brake line is to have one made, which will be braided, which is what I did.

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I have been putting them on the front of the last few bikes I have had. With the stock lines, I feel like the lever gets soft on me when I'm pushing the bike pretty hard for a while through some single track. Switching to the braided, that never seems to happen. It just stays nice and firm all the time. I will say I usually rebuild the master cylinder at the same time... 3 of the last 4 I've had needed it I don't think I use the rear brake enough to have it feel soft on me, so I can't comment there.

Thanks for the feedback. I'm going to be doing a fork swap. I'm putting 01 kx forks onto my 03 KDX.

What does "rebuilding the master cylinder" mean?Replacing the rubber components in the reaovoir?

Do you know if the KX or KDX master is better?

morganid wrote:Thanks for the feedback. I'm going to be doing a fork swap. I'm putting 01 kx forks onto my 03 KDX.

What does "rebuilding the master cylinder" mean?Replacing the rubber components in the reaovoir?

Do you know if the KX or KDX master is better?

When you rebuild, you replace the seals, spring, cover, and plunger (if necessary). Most kits include all the parts you need to rebuild a master cylinder.

Yea, what he said lol its pretty simple if you have some snap ring pliers.

I don't really know if there is a difference between the two performance wise, externally they seem to be about the same size. Wouldn't imagine much difference. I like the KX one better because it doesn't have that boss on it for the stock hand guards and it has a nice little boot that goes over the pivot area to keep mud out.

Does anyone still see this thread? Have I accidentally killed it? I tried to move a portion of it where someone posted asking a question.

I can see it. Viewing from Tapatalk


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Thanks. It was not showing up on the list for a while, but then somehow did. I am not too expereienced on how to best cut out the new question into a different thread.