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Clutch slipping when bike gets on the pipe, have new cable running kawasaki 10-40 oil, thought was the cable when replaced having same issue as soon as gets on high end clutch slips, not getting all of the top end

Clutch springs OEM or aftermarket?
Old or new?
Tension OK on springs?

You could try ATF type F. Maybe try sanding the fibre plates?

All Oem all within spec, basket isn’t grove, strange that is ok low but when pwr come on it doesn’t want to get all the motor is laying out

Just for fun...

WHICH KDX are we talking about??

Do you have the proper free play at the clutch lever?

220 and the free play is good

What did the frictions and steels measure out at? How about the spring measurement?

Spring 36, fric 2.1

So, your clutch isn't within spec.

Spring free length = 38.7mm - service limit = 37.2mm. Yours are 1.2mm under minimum spec - Replace the clutch springs.
Frictions thickness = 2.92 to 3.08mm - service limit = 2.73mm. Yours are .63mm under minimum spec. - Replace frictions

That explains why it won't handle the power. Also, with the info you provided, I would bet the steels are under spec and need replacing as well. Easy job.

Thanks for reply, I’m ordering new clutch pack many have noted going back to oem for clutch pack, next question I know this has been gone over million times, I use recommend oil in case should I stick with it or is there a better oil to run, ie rotella, I never ran it in any of my bikes ,all trail riding.

Oil is totally subjective. I personally run ATF in all my bikes and love how it's improves shifting feel. My best friend loves Rotella and it has served him well. The only thing everyone agrees on is never use a standard automotive oil in your bike as they have friction reducers that can actually cause your clutch to slip. So, good luck making a choice.

Do you own the OEM service manual or subscribe to the Cyclepedia manual?

+1 on the ATF type F. Inexpensive and works great. I also put the full litre in it, seems to quite down the rattling :)