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tim · Post by **tim** » 10:27 pm Mar 12 2006

bought a 06 kdx200 can ya'll tell me what the best silencer would be for the stock pipe (will change pipe when funds come in) and also how long should i run 32:1 before going to 40:1 ?

Post by **Indawoods** » 10:50 pm Mar 12 2006

The best silencer for the stock pipe is the stock silencer.

You can go to 40:1 at any time.... it's not that big of stretch. But, I would get it jetted right when you change. It affects the jetting but I imagine your jetted rich if you have stock jetting.

kawboy2006 · Post by **kawboy2006** » 11:28 pm Mar 12 2006

yep just as inda said I however own an 06 and I would recomend you change the pipe before if not at the same time as the silencer.the pipe will give the biggest bang. as for which silencer where you gonna ride woods etc. you'll need a silencer with an approved arester for most areas, or if your more of the closed course kinda rider you can go with a open silencer say the fmf powercore II. also remove the snorkel from your airbox lid, that'll let the engine breath better and add a couple more ponies. also no matter your riding skill or weight that kdx's suspension is so off balance its almost a crime they sell em like that. check kdx exposed section at jeff fredetts website found in the links above you'll not only find out more info on your original question and the fact at least i found out that no jetting changes are nessasary after the pipe/ silencer switch. I run 32:1 and what was rich seems right on now. but more into the suspension. until then be safe and dont go into any corners too fast.

tim · Post by **tim** » 06:21 pm Mar 13 2006

will be mostly trail riding, i have not ridden bikes in over 15 yrs and it was mostly 4 wheelers but now just want to trail ride as far as my weight it is 139.5 lbs. @ 6 1 tall so if i understand right save money for pipe and silencer together

Post by **Indawoods** » 06:25 pm Mar 13 2006

A pipe would be the first purchase after jetting and suspension work. The only drawback on the stock silencer is weight.... oh yeah, and it's ugly!

tim · Post by **tim** » 07:07 pm Mar 13 2006

how do i find jeff fredetts website?

sluggo69 · Post by **sluggo69** » 07:49 pm Mar 13 2006

http://www.frpoffroad.com

tim · Post by **tim** » 08:38 pm Mar 13 2006

i hear alot about removing the air box lid on older kdx's but now hear to remove the snorkle will that make that much of an inprovement or do i remove the whole lid and if so what do i do with the igniter bolted to the top?

KDX220PHIL · Post by **KDX220PHIL** » 04:54 am Mar 14 2006

There is a nice hole for that:

kawboy2006 · Post by **kawboy2006** » 07:07 pm Mar 14 2006

dont forget that suspension work !!! the front spring rate is way to soft for ya with gear on and all compounded by the rear spring being to stiff making the front even worse. notice the way it dives into corners and seems to nose dive off the littlest jump thats the spring rates working against ya. brake too hard in a corner and you'll be pickin sand out your shorts. then go for the pipe, jeff fredeete says no jetting changes are nessasary on the newer h models with the pipe silencer upgrade but that candpend on elevation temp etc. I didnt change a thing jet wise and seems fine by the way its running and plug condition. just my opinion of my 06

canyncarvr · Post by **canyncarvr** » 07:51 pm Mar 14 2006

The factory jetting changed in the 'newer H' models?

What is it now? In the '06 200 'fer instance............

Ryan · Post by **Ryan** » 08:11 pm Mar 14 2006

at 140 the front springs will be pretty good. I am about 140 and they were ok for me, cept when im going real fast which is all the time

Rhodester · Post by **Rhodester** » 08:20 pm Mar 14 2006

Maybe my situation is rare, but watch for hesitation problems when accelerating with the air box lid completely removed (on a 200H). I never could get decent jetting and/or get rid of hesitations/flat spots with the lid removed. I now run with the snorkel removed, but the lid on.

canyncarvr · Post by **canyncarvr** » 01:49 pm Mar 15 2006

If your situation is rare...how much is it worth?

...cuz I had the 'zact same situation. Which is why my lid is on!

I don't rag on about it..'cuz there are no-lid'ers that are convinced their way is the right way.

It's just you'n me that know differnt, 'eh?

Post by **fuzzy** » 03:13 pm Mar 15 2006

That's interesting...

canyncarvr · Post by **canyncarvr** » 06:37 pm Mar 15 2006

I didn't like the noise neither..........

tim · Post by **tim** » 09:24 pm Mar 15 2006

the best i can find the factory jet is R1174K/2AFKQ ? if that is not right help me figure it out this is new to me

Rhodester · Post by **Rhodester** » 09:43 pm Mar 15 2006

I haven't heard of somebody with a 220 having a problem with no air box lid on, but have heard of a few with 200Hs having a problem. The only reason I mention it is because I spent many hours and many $$$ over a time period of more than a year to find this solution. I'm just trying to hopefully save some other poor sap from going through the same thing I did just to find out that the simplicity of an air box lid was a big deal for proper jetting. I felt a little stupid when I finally figured this out, but the serendipity of learning a ton about jetting (and timing, and compression, and.......etc) during all of that experimentation maybe made it worth it (at least that's what I tell myself :-) ). To the guys that can run without an air box lid and have good jetting with no hesitations or flat spots, I say, More Power To Ya!!!

tim · Post by **tim** » 09:48 pm Mar 15 2006

figured out more info 2006 kdx200h standard main jet #160 pilot #48 needle r1174k

kawboy2006 · Post by **kawboy2006** » 10:46 pm Mar 15 2006

I left my lid on removed the snorkel and drilled a couple extra 1/2 holes in the lid
I don't notice any hesitation.

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