KDXRIDER.NET

antonyp wrote:With mine, I can easily check if the valves are assembled/working correctly by pulling the KIPS shaft while the exhaust is removed. Might be worth checking before you start pulling cylinders ?

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ericr wrote:All fixed. They were reversed. I'm getting pretty good at this. I think I can do a top end with a leak-down test in about two hours now.

ericr wrote:We finished the 200 and have been riding. I realized I hadn't posted photos, so here's a couple along with some final thoughts...

It looks a bit different than the 220. We didn't have a good original headlight, so this has a Polysport MMX. The graphic scheme is different too. I think it's like more of an updated factory look with all the black, white and green - even green radiator hoses. Tank graphics are FX Evo 14. I really liked the 220, but I think I like this more now. Which do you prefer?



This bike took more time than the 220 since it came with more aftermarket parts that we refurbished rather than buying new as for the 220. Refurbishing the spark arrestor, pipe, and pipe guard took a lot of time. The kickstart return spring gave us problems too. We had to take the inner clutch cover off twice to keep it from binding. My son now is very happy with how easy this bike is to start - one jab is all it takes.




I've only had a little time on both bikes. My impression is that the 220 has a bit more on the very bottom end, but the 200, for some reason, seems more powerful. It just has a hit that the 220 doesn't. The 200 feels lighter and livelier. For me, the 220 fits my needs better. I like to grunt along in maybe a gear higher than I should.



Here's one difference with the 200 that I don't like; The 220 has a set of '98 KX250 forks. I found that the RB Design axle mod would not work for that year. I had to buy a hub, axle, rotor, and caliper off ebay. Those items were still less than the cost of the RBD axle mod. The additional cost came from having to buy a spoke set too. For the 200, I bought the axle mod thinking that I could save on the cost of the spokes. Big mistake. The RBD axle mod is great if you have an existing front wheel ready to use and you want to retain the stock odometer. It's plug-and-play. If you're rebuilding the wheel with a new rim, then it's a wash except for the price of the spokes. So, what's the difference? The KX front hub is centered between the forks. The RBD axle mod assures that the KDX caliper and rotor remain in alignment. It's done by shifting the hub to the left by about 3/4 inch. This doesn't affect anything in a straight line but when the bike is leaned over, in a left or right turn, the front wheel is describing either a smaller or larger radius than the rear wheel. This could mean that the front tire will dive-in on left turns and wash-out or push on right turns. You can't tune this out with damping adjustments. Maybe 3/4" isn't enough to make a difference. Those of you with this axle mod - have you noticed any difference in turning from left to right?



Overall, it was a fun, but long project. It certainly is not cost effective. But, my Son and I had a great time doing this together and look forward to building a lot of great memories.

Here's a photo of my son from a couple weekends ago. This is Eastern Washington State at Taneum. We did a 35 mile loop following a stream and then climbing tight switchbacks. It went from 2800' to 6900'. A couple thousand vertical feet were in just a few miles. It was challenging, and a bit terrifying too. I fell on this 120 degree corner on a 600 vertical foot, 50 degree avalanche chute. My son was behind me and thought I was going over. This is the stuff that makes memories for a lifetime! Thanks for following along with us!