KDX Restoration X 2

Got questions? We got answers....

KDX Restoration X 2

Postby ericr » 02:11 am Jan 18 2018

I just joined the group last week and want to thank all of you that have provided so much information about KDX's.

I'm embarking on a full restoration of two KDX's and would appreciate any suggestions on what to watch out for, suggestions on what to buy or do, or any things that I should be aware of while I do this. I've been searching this list non-stop for the last couple weeks and think I've leaned the basics. I'm not asking to be spoon-fed, just asking for tips from those with more experience than me. Let me start with a little background information;

In the last couple months, I bought 2, 2002 KDX's. One is a 200 and the other is a 220. They're the Kermit twins - fraternal, same year, but not identical since one's a little bigger in displacement. It all started when my neighbor gave me a link to a local dealer that had the 200 for sale. My 16 year-old was wanting a dirt bike for a long time. We went down and looked at it and we bought his first bike. It seemed clean and fairly well equipped with;

FMF woods pipe and Turbine Core spark arrester
Bark busters
Skid plate
Rear Disk Guard
Pipe guard
Pro taper 1 1/8 bars

That dealer sells Beta, Sherco, TM, AJP, and EM. I looked at the Beta XTrainer and thought maybe I should get a bike too to go riding and teach my son. Then I realized that a mildly outfitted XTrainer, after dealer prep, tax and license would be close to $10k. I'm 62 and wasn't even sure if I could even do it again. I used to be an "A" rider when I was in my teens, but I got rid of my last bike, a 2000 EXC300 in 2003. It was just too much money to consider. I then rode the KDX and realized that it was even a bit too much for my son as a beginner. I then started looking for good beginner bikes.

I found a 2018 KLX140G with 5 hours for $1000 off new. I serviced the bike, added bark busters and a skid plate and off we went. Me, on the KDX and my son on the KLX. After a few 20+ mile trips, and local shorter riding, I think my son's a natural. And, I've determined that I'm not so old after all! We rode all day with my neighbor on his Beta 300RR. We kept up with his pace and he said he wasn't really dialing it back for us. That's encouraging! So much so that I thought that my son was going to out grow that little KLX real fast.

I realized that $10-13k bikes were out of my budget. I also knew that I needed to freshen up the KDX - a top end and bearing maintenance at least. I also was thinking of a better bike for my son. So, I decided to look for another KDX. Makes sense, right? Learn everything that it takes to work on one bike and carry that learning over to another. I shopped and found one.

It was on craigslist. A same year, 2002, KDX220. Only, it had no options. Not even a skid plate. It looked way rougher. And, around here, people are asking crazy prices for old KDX's. I negotiated him down from $2000 to $1600, the same price I paid for the 200, and then drove 2 1/2 hours to pick it up.

It is nice having 2 identical bikes to work on. After 3 days now, they are both clean and stripped down to just front and back end, frame and engine. I'm trying to schedule my work and only buy things as I need them. Here's what I'm doing tomorrow;

Pull both engines,
Remove heads and pull cylinders
Inspect Cylinders and use Bore Micrometer to determine wear - if needed, send out for Nicasil.
Clean carbs, heads, triple clamps and axles to send to RB Designs for work
Strip bike down to bare frame. Send frame and swingarm for powdercoat

What's happened now is I'm going for full restorations. I realized that I can buy and rebuild 2 KDX's that will be comparable to new bikes (less electric start) for way less than the price of one new bike. It will also be a fun Father-Son project together.

First for ordering, I'll need a piston kit and gaskets. Is Weisco forged the way to go?

I mentioned triple clamps. I got a '98 KX250 fork set in really good condition and it came with excellent Pro-Taper bars for $170. The seals even seem good. I ordered another set from a 2001 KX250 which should arrive tomorrow. My goal is to have 2 sets of carbs, heads, triple clamps and axles out to Ron after tomorrow.

I plan on doing a bottom end too. In the old days, I remember shift forks and dogs as being wear items. Do I need to worry about that with these bikes. I don't recall seeing minimal wear specs in the shop manual for these items. Any tips on buying gasket kits that include a water pump rebuild? How about recommendations for clutch plates, springs, baskets? I already bought a KX125 clutch actuator off ebay hoping to end up with as light a clutch as possible.

Anyway, that's the first items; top end, bottom end, powder coat, and RB Design work. Next will be springing and valving forks and shocks. And then final fitting out. I'm still trying to learn about re-valving KX forks myself rather than just buying expensive gold valves. Any links for further learning on valving would be much appreciated, especially recommended shim stacks for single track and trail riding.

If this is of interest to others, let me know and I'll start taking photos. I used to use Photobucket to host but they stopped free hosting. Any suggestions on what to use now for this forum?

Thanks for reading my ramblings.
'02 KDX 200, '02 KDX 220, '18 KLX 140G
ericr
Supporting Member I
Supporting Member I
 
Posts: 19
Joined: 06:57 pm Nov 06 2017
Location: Sammamish, WA
Has thanked: 0 time
Been thanked: 1 time

Re: KDX Restoration X 2

Postby Jason » 02:40 am Jan 18 2018

COOL STORY!!

Taking both apart at the same time seems potentially troublesome. I might do one, then do the other.

On the valving, you definitely need to revalve the OEM compression adjuster assembly (base valve). Think of the midvalve as a helper to the base valve. You will want to go lighter, as they are valved for MX.

Wiseco is good on the pistons.
Thank you, Julien D for all your hard work!

PLEASE! Do not "dip" PWK Keihin carbs to clean them! It will damage the internal o-ring (jet block gasket).
User avatar
Jason
KDXRider.net
KDXRider.net
 
Posts: 7635
Images: 12
Joined: 06:45 am Nov 01 2004
Location: AL, USA
Has thanked: 64 times
Been thanked: 263 times

KDX Restoration X 2

Postby John_S » 09:54 am Jan 18 2018

Yes definitely a cool story. Regarding the KX forks, this applies to the 02 forks but not sure about the 98's. I read up on the bladder in the forks causing harshness for trail riding and the disable (or full removal) seemed to be mod that softens them up. I have a set of 2000 forks that I'm going to be installing after sending the triples and axle to RB. I installed new seals and bushings and decided to eliminate the bladder system. I've read that removing the white plastic ring disables them but I removed the rubber sleeve also. If you're interested in removing it there are 3 spring washers on the top and a metal cup and circlip at the bottom. Raise the cup a hair toward the top of the fork and that gets you access to the clip. Once those slide down I rolled the top of the bladder back to clear the metal lip holding it in and then pulled from the bottom. Jason's advice on a revalving is a better option but I'm going to start with this and go from there, mainly because I'm not confident enough to take apart valve stacks. I set the oil level at 120mm from the top tube. There are other forums that talk about this if you search 2000 KX fork mods. Here's a picture of mine after the removal. The system is the rubber sleeve and the parts in the lower left corner of the picture. Good luck on the bikes and I'm looking forward to reading about these builds as you go through. A service manual is going to be a must if you don't have one already.
Attachments
image.jpeg
image.jpeg (615.83 KiB) Viewed 560 times
John_S
Gold Member
Gold Member
 
Posts: 198
Images: 16
Joined: 06:59 am Jan 27 2017
Location: Florida
Has thanked: 21 times
Been thanked: 38 times

Re: KDX Restoration X 2

Postby John_S » 10:52 am Jan 18 2018

On RB's website it lists the kdx axle mod is for 99-03 KX 2 stroke forks only. You would need a KX front wheel and axle to be able to use the 98 forks it looks like.
John_S
Gold Member
Gold Member
 
Posts: 198
Images: 16
Joined: 06:59 am Jan 27 2017
Location: Florida
Has thanked: 21 times
Been thanked: 38 times

Re: KDX Restoration X 2

Postby ericr » 06:50 pm Jan 18 2018

John_S wrote:On RB's website it lists the kdx axle mod is for 99-03 KX 2 stroke forks only. You would need a KX front wheel and axle to be able to use the 98 forks it looks like.


You're right. Hmmm. I kept thinking it was 98-03 as the desirable year range for the KX swaps. The forks did come with the axle, thank goodness. I just ordered a used kx hub for $20. The KDX spokes are 2mm too short for that hub though. I'll have to find a set. Will my KDX caliper still work with all of this? Will there be any problems doing the stem swap with the '98?
'02 KDX 200, '02 KDX 220, '18 KLX 140G
ericr
Supporting Member I
Supporting Member I
 
Posts: 19
Joined: 06:57 pm Nov 06 2017
Location: Sammamish, WA
Has thanked: 0 time
Been thanked: 1 time

KDX Restoration X 2

Postby ericr » 12:12 am Jan 19 2018

Well that '98 KX fork purchase was a mistake. I learned a few things;

'98 was the last year of the previous generation of KX forks. The base valve stack is very crude in comparison to the next generation of '99-'03. In fact, you really can't just re-shim it. The only real option is to buy a Racetech Gold Valve at $169. The stem swap also requires knurling which doesn't need to be done starting in '99. In addition, it uses a 43 mm seal driver compared to a 46 mm for the next generation that I'll need to buy. Overall, it was no bargain.

I just jumped in too fast when I bought that without truly understanding what the differences are. I hope that's my last pricey mistake with this rebuild project.
'02 KDX 200, '02 KDX 220, '18 KLX 140G
ericr
Supporting Member I
Supporting Member I
 
Posts: 19
Joined: 06:57 pm Nov 06 2017
Location: Sammamish, WA
Has thanked: 0 time
Been thanked: 1 time

Re: KDX Restoration X 2

Postby B737driver » 02:10 am Jan 19 2018

Great story. Sounds like you’re headed in the right direction. I’m certain that you are considering this...but be sure and replace the bearings in the rear suspension linkage. It’s a weak point. Especially after 16 yrs of the unknown.

Also, you can have the KX forks “shortened” internally to alleviate running the forks so high in the triple clamps. The suspension gurus here may know how to accomplish this...I just used a local reputable suspension guy and the difference was noticeable. The other option is bar risers and slide them up in the clamps.

Looking forward to seeing the progress. :pop:
Live to Fly
Fly to Live
User avatar
B737driver
Gold Member
Gold Member
 
Posts: 373
Images: 5
Joined: 01:11 pm Dec 02 2011
Location: Heath, Texas
Has thanked: 6 times
Been thanked: 11 times

KDX Restoration X 2

Postby Jason » 04:30 am Jan 19 2018

ericr wrote:Well that '98 KX fork purchase was a mistake. I learned a few things;

'98 was the last year of the previous generation of KX forks. The base valve stack is very crude in comparison to the next generation of '99-'03. In fact, you really can't just re-shim it. The only real option is to buy a Racetech Gold Valve at $169. The stem swap also requires knurling which doesn't need to be done starting in '99. In addition, it uses a 43 mm seal driver compared to a 46 mm for the next generation that I'll need to buy. Overall, it was no bargain.

I just jumped in too fast when I bought that without truly understanding what the differences are. I hope that's my last pricey mistake with this rebuild project.


Where are you getting your information from?!

I used to work on suspension as a paying hobby. I am fairly familiar with some of the older KX / KDX forks and shocks. One can most definitely re-shim the base valve on 1998 forks. There is no need to purchase a Race Tech Gold Valve before trying to figure it out yourself.

The 1998 KX125 / KX250 lower clamp and 1999 lower clamp are... (drum roll please)..... the EXACT same part and part number.

This Kawasaki 44037-1371 HOLDER-FORK UNDER Not Available fits the following models and components:

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1998 KX125 - KX125-K5 FRONT FORK

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1998 KX250 - KX250-K5 FRONT FORK

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1999 KX250 - KX250-L1 FRONT FORK

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1999 KX125 - KX125-L1 FRONT FORK

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2000 KX250 - KX250-L2 FRONT FORK

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2000 KX125 - KX125-L2 FRONT FORK

One issue is that people just know their one experience. 1955 - 1997 KDX clamps have a smaller OD stem than the 1998 + KDX stems. It's about 7 thousandths of an inch if memory serves me correctly. Someone correct me if not.

1998 forks have 46 mm inner tubes.

Any chance you bought something that IS NOT 1998??

Stop Clicking on Buy It Now and click on Read It Now. :hmm:
Thank you, Julien D for all your hard work!

PLEASE! Do not "dip" PWK Keihin carbs to clean them! It will damage the internal o-ring (jet block gasket).
User avatar
Jason
KDXRider.net
KDXRider.net
 
Posts: 7635
Images: 12
Joined: 06:45 am Nov 01 2004
Location: AL, USA
Has thanked: 64 times
Been thanked: 263 times

KDX Restoration X 2

Postby ericr » 01:02 pm Jan 19 2018

Jason wrote:
ericr wrote:Well that '98 KX fork purchase was a mistake. I learned a few things;

'98 was the last year of the previous generation of KX forks. The base valve stack is very crude in comparison to the next generation of '99-'03. In fact, you really can't just re-shim it. The only real option is to buy a Racetech Gold Valve at $169. The stem swap also requires knurling which doesn't need to be done starting in '99. In addition, it uses a 43 mm seal driver compared to a 46 mm for the next generation that I'll need to buy. Overall, it was no bargain.

I just jumped in too fast when I bought that without truly understanding what the differences are. I hope that's my last pricey mistake with this rebuild project.


Where are you getting your information from?!

I used to work on suspension as a paying hobby. I am fairly familiar with some of the older KX / KDX forks and shocks. One can most definitely re-shim the base valve on 1998 forks. There is no need to purchase a Race Tech Gold Valve before trying to figure it out yourself.

The 1998 KX125 / KX250 lower clamp and 1999 lower clamp are... (drum roll please)..... the EXACT same part and part number.

This Kawasaki 44037-1371 HOLDER-FORK UNDER Not Available fits the following models and components:

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1998 KX125 - KX125-K5 FRONT FORK

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1998 KX250 - KX250-K5 FRONT FORK

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1999 KX250 - KX250-L1 FRONT FORK

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1999 KX125 - KX125-L1 FRONT FORK

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2000 KX250 - KX250-L2 FRONT FORK

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2000 KX125 - KX125-L2 FRONT FORK

One issue is that people just know their one experience. 1955 - 1997 KDX clamps have a smaller OD stem than the 1998 + KDX stems. It's about 7 thousandths of an inch if memory serves me correctly. Someone correct me if not.

1998 forks have 46 mm inner tubes.

Any chance you bought something that IS NOT 1998??

Stop Clicking on Buy It Now and click on Read It Now. :hmm:


That comparison of '98 base valves vs. later years was just the opinion of someone on the internet. But, you know how opinions are - everyone has one.

I looked at the shop manuals for the '98 (94-98 model years), and the 2001 (99-02 model years). That's how it appeared that the 2 years were quite different. Different special tools were called for;

1998 - Page 11-10, Fork Cylinder Holder, 57001-1287
1998 - Page 11-12, Fork Seal Driver, 43mm, 57001-1340.

2001 - Page 11-15, Fork Cylinder Holder, 57001-1441 (L2 and later)
2001 - Page 11-17, Fork Oil Seal Driver, 46mm, 57001-1395 (L1-L3)

The '98 seal driver does not make sense. I measured the fork tubes and they are 46mm. So why does the manual call for a 43mm driver?

You're right. The lower clamp has the same part number for '98-2000. It changed in 2001.

I spent a week shopping for that '98 fork - it was not a buy-it-now purchase. I should have just bought 2 forks from the same model year to minimize shop tool expense, differences in part numbers, and similarity in valve stacks. I'm thinking of selling the '98 forks and finding another set of '01's. It would be a shame though because they are in great condition.
'02 KDX 200, '02 KDX 220, '18 KLX 140G
ericr
Supporting Member I
Supporting Member I
 
Posts: 19
Joined: 06:57 pm Nov 06 2017
Location: Sammamish, WA
Has thanked: 0 time
Been thanked: 1 time

Re: KDX Restoration X 2

Postby Jason » 04:05 pm Jan 19 2018

For KX125 / KX250, inner tubes were 43 mm from 1991 - 1995. 1996 - 2001 were 46 mm. 2002+ were 48 mm.
Thank you, Julien D for all your hard work!

PLEASE! Do not "dip" PWK Keihin carbs to clean them! It will damage the internal o-ring (jet block gasket).
User avatar
Jason
KDXRider.net
KDXRider.net
 
Posts: 7635
Images: 12
Joined: 06:45 am Nov 01 2004
Location: AL, USA
Has thanked: 64 times
Been thanked: 263 times

KDX Restoration X 2

Postby Snapp200 » 04:09 pm Jan 19 2018

Very cool! Im in a similar boat. Mine would just be a 12’ jon compared to your barge, though! Lol!
I will be following your post for sure in hopes to steal some shared knowledge, and transferring it to my Kdx200’s upbringing.
Its so cool to have your son involved in riding and tinkering, when they are so easily shut down to the hands on world with today’s electronics/ instant gratification times.
Im hoping my 9 year old follows suit. So far he is just the “jump on and ride” and let daddy do all the foot work and maintenence. I don’t mind so far. Im just happy he likes to ride when we go.
Good luck on your restos!
Here’s my vote for pics to follow!
I don’t have any suggestions on photo sharing, though. :/
Maybe I will learn that in this thread too!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
User avatar
Snapp200
Supporting Member II
Supporting Member II
 
Posts: 49
Joined: 05:44 pm Jan 12 2018
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 5 times

Re: KDX Restoration X 2

Postby doakley » 07:00 pm Jan 19 2018

So here's a question since we seem to have fused on forks...what years of KX forks are generally regarded as the best choices for the KDX conversion assuming enduro and hare scrambles use?
doakley
Gold Member
Gold Member
 
Posts: 313
Images: 0
Joined: 02:58 pm Mar 10 2016
Has thanked: 0 time
Been thanked: 22 times

Re: KDX Restoration X 2

Postby Jason » 09:08 pm Jan 19 2018

They are all going to need a revalve.
They are all too long and need to have the travel limited inside or (pull em up in the clamps :oops: )
The larger the tube, the greater the chance they hit the tank at full lock turned.
You might find a set with the correct spring rate stock (if they have the stock rate springs).
If you are a Tubby Tompkins like me, you will need stiffer springs than stock.
Price difference is not huge, but condition may vary.
Try to keep in mind all associated costs when swapping front ends.
Thank you, Julien D for all your hard work!

PLEASE! Do not "dip" PWK Keihin carbs to clean them! It will damage the internal o-ring (jet block gasket).
User avatar
Jason
KDXRider.net
KDXRider.net
 
Posts: 7635
Images: 12
Joined: 06:45 am Nov 01 2004
Location: AL, USA
Has thanked: 64 times
Been thanked: 263 times

Re: KDX Restoration X 2

Postby ericr » 01:56 am Jan 20 2018

Jason wrote:They are all going to need a revalve.
They are all too long and need to have the travel limited inside or (pull em up in the clamps :oops: )
The larger the tube, the greater the chance they hit the tank at full lock turned.
You might find a set with the correct spring rate stock (if they have the stock rate springs).
If you are a Tubby Tompkins like me, you will need stiffer springs than stock.
Price difference is not huge, but condition may vary.
Try to keep in mind all associated costs when swapping front ends.


I feel that I'm drinking out of a firehose at this point, so please excuse my noob questions.

I've read that the KX forks are longer and that you need to compensate to maintain proper geometry. The number that I read is 3/4 inch. If that's the case, can you simply slip the forks up in the clamp by that amount, or is it preferable to install a bushing to shorten it internally?

I was planning on learning on what's involved with internal shortening. One item of concern is that if you shorten, aren't you basically doing a pre-load by that amount? If it's 3/4 of an inch, shouldn't you get shortened springs that compensate back to your desired spring rate? Finally, what's involved in the shortening bushing. Can you just put in a piece of PVC and a couple washers, or do you need a precisely machined spacer. If so, does Race tech or others provide these?

You have a wealth of knowledge and I appreciate your help. Thanks!
'02 KDX 200, '02 KDX 220, '18 KLX 140G
ericr
Supporting Member I
Supporting Member I
 
Posts: 19
Joined: 06:57 pm Nov 06 2017
Location: Sammamish, WA
Has thanked: 0 time
Been thanked: 1 time

Re: KDX Restoration X 2

Postby Jason » 03:35 am Jan 20 2018

Image

People do it different ways. Easiest is just pull them up, but one has to not hit the bottom of the handlebars.

Yes, the springs would need to be shortened a little. One might look into Yamaha springs from that time, as they were a little shorter. That or read up on cutting down springs. I have cut one set down in the past. Not the easiest thing, but not super difficult. Regrinding the top part and bending it down properly took some figuring out.

You are going to need to install something that will basically keep it from extending out as far as it used to. One example is putting it on the cartridge rod below the top out spring.

I don't have a wealth, just know a little bit. :mrgreen:
Thank you, Julien D for all your hard work!

PLEASE! Do not "dip" PWK Keihin carbs to clean them! It will damage the internal o-ring (jet block gasket).
User avatar
Jason
KDXRider.net
KDXRider.net
 
Posts: 7635
Images: 12
Joined: 06:45 am Nov 01 2004
Location: AL, USA
Has thanked: 64 times
Been thanked: 263 times

KDX Restoration X 2

Postby JoKDX220r » 08:01 am Jan 20 2018

ericr wrote: I used to use Photobucket to host but they stopped free hosting. Any suggestions on what to use now for this forum?.


Imgur
User avatar
JoKDX220r
Supporting Member II
Supporting Member II
 
Posts: 179
Joined: 04:04 pm Oct 03 2008
Has thanked: 3 times
Been thanked: 3 times

Re: KDX Restoration X 2

Postby tropicoz » 07:50 pm Jan 27 2018

ericr wrote:
I feel that I'm drinking out of a firehose at this point, so please excuse my noob questions.

I've read that the KX forks are longer and that you need to compensate to maintain proper geometry. The number that I read is 3/4 inch. If that's the case, can you simply slip the forks up in the clamp by that amount, or is it preferable to install a bushing to shorten it internally?

I was planning on learning on what's involved with internal shortening. One item of concern is that if you shorten, aren't you basically doing a pre-load by that amount? If it's 3/4 of an inch, shouldn't you get shortened springs that compensate back to your desired spring rate? Finally, what's involved in the shortening bushing. Can you just put in a piece of PVC and a couple washers, or do you need a precisely machined spacer. If so, does Race tech or others provide these?
You have a wealth of knowledge and I appreciate your help. Thanks!


The proper way to shorten forks would be to have a custom spring made to your specs along with a custom spacer.
tropicoz
Member
 
Posts: 9
Images: 0
Joined: 04:31 pm Nov 07 2017
Has thanked: 0 time
Been thanked: 0 time

KDX Restoration X 2

Postby ericr » 11:27 pm Jan 27 2018

I didn't get to spend as much time as I would have wished this week on the bikes. Here's what I got done;

Disassembled down to frames. Pressure washed and degreased frames and swingarms.
Cleaned and degreased the outside of the engine.
Pulled head and cylinders.
Disassembled and cleaned carbs.
Cleaned heads, cylinders and KIPS.
Removed pins and studs.

I found that neither bike had ever had any top end work. There was plenty of blow-by past the rings on both. The 200 Mic'd in at 2.6000, which is within standard but was scored and pitted. Off to Millenium it goes.

The 220 Mic'd in at 2.7185 which puts it just outside of standard, but still within 0.002 of max. So that's a dilemma - should I replate it, or just put the new Weisco in it? I'm all for saving money, but I am going for full restorations and don't want to come back and redo a full top-end in another year or two.

So, that's the Millenium shipment about ready to go. The other is to RB Designs;

Carbs are clean and ready to ship. I feel I'm still behind the curve in learning what needs to be done though. I dipped the carbs to clean them! I read on the RB website that I should include $20 for gaskets. Does anyone know if that includes that jet block gasket? The heads are ready. I just need to degrease the new steering bearings and I'll have the triples and front axle ready to ship out. I just got a couple ProX rod kits today. As soon as I get the crank out, I'll ship that to Ron also.

The last thing to ship out will be the frame, swingarm, and kickstand for powdercoat.

After these items get shipped, I'll focus on ordering in parts and cleaning/restoring parts. Here's some of the things I've learned so far working on 16 year-old KDX's that have never been apart;

Douse every fastener with PB Blaster or Free All a couple days before wrenching.
Get an impact wrench. I have a cheapo 1/2" electric from Harbor Freight and it works great.
Those KIPS allen plugs! Torch all around them and give them one rap with a hammer. They'll come out easily with like 5 lbs of torque.
The Allen cap screw on the the main KIPS gear shaft. That was frozen. Free All for 2 days and heat didn't budge it. Finally had to drill it out. Did so without damaging threads on the shaft thank goodness.
Cylinder studs - what a PITA! It took a combination of Free All, heating the cylinders in the oven to 200, rapping the ends with a hammer, getting 8x1.25 jam nuts, and using the impact wrench to get them out. I galled 2 of the studs because I didn't have the jam nuts tight enough and will need to order replacements. When I go to put them back in, I'll chase the threads and was thinking of using either Moly or Tef-Gel to coat the threads. Anyone have any recommendations on installing studs so they can come out later?

I have a couple spreadsheets going - one on what I spent, and another on what I still need to buy. My original thinking was top end and bearings. Then I thought, 2 restored and modded bikes for the price of one new one. That's the direction I'm going and I think it's going to be really close to that by the time I'm done. Good thing that I don't plan on ever selling these.

I haven't got a photo hosting site yet. That will be next time and I'll have photos of everything before I send parts out and photos as I put it all back together. Thanks!
Last edited by ericr on 10:44 pm Jan 28 2018, edited 1 time in total.
'02 KDX 200, '02 KDX 220, '18 KLX 140G
ericr
Supporting Member I
Supporting Member I
 
Posts: 19
Joined: 06:57 pm Nov 06 2017
Location: Sammamish, WA
Has thanked: 0 time
Been thanked: 1 time

Re: KDX Restoration X 2

Postby 6 Riders » 12:12 pm Jan 28 2018

ericr wrote:I didn't get to spend as much time as I would have wished this week on the bikes. Here's what I got done;

Disassembled down to frames. Pressure washed and degreased frames and swingarms.
Cleaned and degreased the outside of the engine.
Pulled head and cylinders.
Disassembled and cleaned carbs.
Cleaned heads, cylinders and KIPS.
Removed pins and studs.

I found that neither bike had ever had any top end work. There was plenty of blow-by past the rings on both. The 200 Mic'd in at 2.6000, which is within standard but was scored and pitted. Off to Millenium it goes.

The 220 Mic'd in at 2.7185 which puts it just outside of standard, but still within 0.002 of max. So that's a dilemma - should I replate it, or just put the new Weisco in it? I'm all for saving money, but I am going for full restorations and don't want to come back and redo a full top-end in another year or two.

So, that's the Millenium shipment about ready to go. The other is to RB Designs;

Carbs are clean and ready to ship. I feel I'm still behind the curve in learning what needs to be done though. I dipped the carbs to clean them! I read on the RB website that I should include $20 for gaskets. Does anyone know if that includes that jet block gasket? The heads are ready. I just need to degrease the new steering bearings and I'll have the triples and front axle ready to ship out. I just got a couple ProX rod kits today. As soon as I get the crank out, I'll ship that to Ron also.

The last thing to ship out will be the frame, swingarm, and kickstand for powdercoat.

After these items get shipped, I'll focus on ordering in parts and cleaning/restoring parts. Here's some of the things I've learned so far working on 16 year-old KDX's that have never been apart;

Douse every fastener with PB Blaster or Free All a couple days before wrenching.
Get an impact wrench. I have a cheapo 1/2" electric from Harbor Freight and it works great.
Those KIPS allen plugs! Torch all around them and give them one rap with a hammer. They'll come out easily with like 5 lbs of torque.
The Allen cap screw on the the main KIPS gear shaft. That was frozen. Free All for 2 days and heat didn't budge it. Finally had to drill it out. Did so without damaging threads on the shaft thank goodness.
Cylinder studs - what a PITA! It took a combination of Free All, heating the cylinders in the oven to 200, rapping the ends with a hammer, getting 8x1.25 jam nuts, and using the impact wrench to get them out. I galled 2 of the studs because I didn't have the jam nuts tight enough and will need to order replacements. When I go to put them back in, I'll chase the threads and was thinking of using either Moly or Tef-Gel to coat the threads. Anyone have any recommendations on installing studs so they can come out later?

I have a couple spreadsheets going - one on what I spent, and another on what I still need to buy. My original thinking was top end and bearings. Then I thought 2 restored and modded bikes for the price of one new one. That's the direction I'm going and I think it's going to be really close to that by the time I'm done. Good thing that I don't plan on every selling these.

I haven't got a photo hosting site yet. That will be next time and I'll have photos of everything before I send parts out and photos as I put it all back together. Thanks!
I have one small suggestion..... don't pc the swingarm. I have one bike that I pc'd and one that I polished (or removed the factory pc) down to bare aluminum. The polished swing arm looks way better by far, over the pc'd swingarm......just my 2¢....

Sent from my BLN-L24 using Tapatalk
newbbewb wrote:^what he said.

masterblaster wrote:Man 6 riders you rock.

*side note...I'm drunk, so try to read what I'm trying to say, instead of what I actually type
User avatar
6 Riders
Gold Member
Gold Member
 
Posts: 2045
Images: 4
Joined: 12:58 pm May 01 2013
Location: Washington
Has thanked: 19 times
Been thanked: 102 times

Re: KDX Restoration X 2

Postby 6 Riders » 12:13 pm Jan 28 2018

One more thing.....do you have an impact driver? That is the type you hit with a hammer.....They do wonders for stuck screws, nuts and etc.

Sent from my BLN-L24 using Tapatalk
newbbewb wrote:^what he said.

masterblaster wrote:Man 6 riders you rock.

*side note...I'm drunk, so try to read what I'm trying to say, instead of what I actually type
User avatar
6 Riders
Gold Member
Gold Member
 
Posts: 2045
Images: 4
Joined: 12:58 pm May 01 2013
Location: Washington
Has thanked: 19 times
Been thanked: 102 times

Next

Return to KDX General Q&A

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot] and 6 guests