KDX Restoration X 2

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antonyp
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Re: KDX Restoration X 2

Post by antonyp »

I think they both look fantastic - I wouldn't know which to choose in terms of looks but like you, I love the low end grunt and high gear cruising so performance-wise I would prefer the 220.

Right you are mate ! These are the best kind of memories. Enjoy riding those awesome bikes [emoji41]



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Re: KDX Restoration X 2

Post by KDXGarage »

I think they both look great. Great job on both of them.

That looks REALLY steep!!

Have safe fun with both of them for a long time! :supz:
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KDX Restoration X 2

Post by ericr »

Oh, no! I just read the post about the shop manual having the kips valves reversed. The manual says that the valve with the groove at the top goes on the left when it should go on the right. I took one blurry photo before the head went on. Did I get them reversed? I really suspect that I did. The 200 isn't running right and I thought it was all jetting related. Guess I'll be taking a couple cylinders off. :cry:

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Last edited by ericr on 06:32 pm Jun 26 2018, edited 1 time in total.
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KDX Restoration X 2

Post by KDXGarage »

Which version of the manual did you buy? The last 9 have it correct. The first does not.

EDIT: last 8, not the first 2
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Re: KDX Restoration X 2

Post by ericr »

First Edition, 1994. The description in the manual is opposite from this KIPS description by Bryan Kimsey on the web - http://www.bryankimsey.com/dirtbikes/KDX/kips.htm

I'm sure I'm not the first, and probably not the last to switch these up. Perhaps a sticky could help others in the future?
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Re: KDX Restoration X 2

Post by KDXGarage »

Why did you buy the oldest one??

Unfortunately, not everyone reads stickies, FS rules, posts in the correct forum, etc.

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Re: KDX Restoration X 2

Post by ericr »

It was cheap, and I got what I paid for.
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Re: KDX Restoration X 2

Post by KDXGarage »

May I guess "non paper" version?

There is a thread on here from March of 2008 mentioning the manual error.
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antonyp
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Re: KDX Restoration X 2

Post by antonyp »

With mine, I can easily check if the valves are assembled/working correctly by pulling the KIPS shaft while the exhaust is removed. Might be worth checking before you start pulling cylinders ?

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Re: KDX Restoration X 2

Post by ericr »

antonyp wrote:With mine, I can easily check if the valves are assembled/working correctly by pulling the KIPS shaft while the exhaust is removed. Might be worth checking before you start pulling cylinders ?

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I'll definitely check that first with the pipe removed. Unfortunately, I know I followed the manual, and the photo shows the right side valve without the groove. What kills me is that I had separated left and right valves for cleaning and then thought that I had screwed up somehow and gotten things mixed up. From what I remember about the assembly, the cylinder has to be pulled to access the left and right actuating shafts which are covered by those allen head plugs. That's because those plugs, unfortunately, are not accessible with the cylinder in the frame.
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Re: KDX Restoration X 2

Post by ericr »

All fixed. They were reversed. I'm getting pretty good at this. I think I can do a top end with a leak-down test in about two hours now. :supz:
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Re: KDX Restoration X 2

Post by John_S »

ericr wrote:All fixed. They were reversed. I'm getting pretty good at this. I think I can do a top end with a leak-down test in about two hours now. :supz:
What was it like riding after getting them installed correctly? I would think that makes a big difference in power.
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Re: KDX Restoration X 2

Post by ericr »

We've only gone riding once since it was fixed - the weather here has been too hot and smoky. From the one ride, I really couldn't tell much difference with the 220. The 200 is much better. Before, there was no bottom end. You had to really rev it and slip the clutch and it was still easy to stall. Now, it's much more tractor-like on the bottom.
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KDX Restoration X 2

Post by VTMTcowboy »

ericr wrote:We finished the 200 and have been riding. I realized I hadn't posted photos, so here's a couple along with some final thoughts...

It looks a bit different than the 220. We didn't have a good original headlight, so this has a Polysport MMX. The graphic scheme is different too. I think it's like more of an updated factory look with all the black, white and green - even green radiator hoses. Tank graphics are FX Evo 14. I really liked the 220, but I think I like this more now. Which do you prefer?

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This bike took more time than the 220 since it came with more aftermarket parts that we refurbished rather than buying new as for the 220. Refurbishing the spark arrestor, pipe, and pipe guard took a lot of time. The kickstart return spring gave us problems too. We had to take the inner clutch cover off twice to keep it from binding. My son now is very happy with how easy this bike is to start - one jab is all it takes.


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I've only had a little time on both bikes. My impression is that the 220 has a bit more on the very bottom end, but the 200, for some reason, seems more powerful. It just has a hit that the 220 doesn't. The 200 feels lighter and livelier. For me, the 220 fits my needs better. I like to grunt along in maybe a gear higher than I should.

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Here's one difference with the 200 that I don't like; The 220 has a set of '98 KX250 forks. I found that the RB Design axle mod would not work for that year. I had to buy a hub, axle, rotor, and caliper off ebay. Those items were still less than the cost of the RBD axle mod. The additional cost came from having to buy a spoke set too. For the 200, I bought the axle mod thinking that I could save on the cost of the spokes. Big mistake. The RBD axle mod is great if you have an existing front wheel ready to use and you want to retain the stock odometer. It's plug-and-play. If you're rebuilding the wheel with a new rim, then it's a wash except for the price of the spokes. So, what's the difference? The KX front hub is centered between the forks. The RBD axle mod assures that the KDX caliper and rotor remain in alignment. It's done by shifting the hub to the left by about 3/4 inch. This doesn't affect anything in a straight line but when the bike is leaned over, in a left or right turn, the front wheel is describing either a smaller or larger radius than the rear wheel. This could mean that the front tire will dive-in on left turns and wash-out or push on right turns. You can't tune this out with damping adjustments. Maybe 3/4" isn't enough to make a difference. Those of you with this axle mod - have you noticed any difference in turning from left to right?

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Overall, it was a fun, but long project. It certainly is not cost effective. But, my Son and I had a great time doing this together and look forward to building a lot of great memories.

Here's a photo of my son from a couple weekends ago. This is Eastern Washington State at Taneum. We did a 35 mile loop following a stream and then climbing tight switchbacks. It went from 2800' to 6900'. A couple thousand vertical feet were in just a few miles. It was challenging, and a bit terrifying too. I fell on this 120 degree corner on a 600 vertical foot, 50 degree avalanche chute. My son was behind me and thought I was going over. This is the stuff that makes memories for a lifetime! Thanks for following along with us!

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Wow, both of these bikes came out so sweet! You guys ride some pretty intense terrain. Looks beautiful despite the need to be hyper focused. Once again, awesome build, especially since it was father-son time.
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Re: KDX Restoration X 2

Post by Tyl3r »

Man, bikes look real nice! Good job!
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KDX Restoration X 2

Post by ericr »

I think I have to pull the cylinder again on the 200. It developed a coolant leak. We removed the pipe and tracked it down to that steel coolant jacket plug that's on the bottom of the cylinder below the exhaust outlet. When I sent the cylinder to Millenium for replating, they shipped it back with the plug removed. I reinstalled it with some teflon joint paste that I had on hand. It was supposed to be good for 10,000 psi with liquids. I guess it didn't work.

Any recommendations for joint compounds for this plug? Or, I remember they used to sell this powder to put in your radiator to seal pin hole leaks. That might save me from pulling the cylinder again but would that just gum up my cooling system?
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KDX Restoration X 2

Post by pumpguy »

That powder? I think they call it pepper. You know, the black stuff you sprinkle on your eggs in the morning.

As far as sealing the plug, I would try blue Loctite 242 or equivalent. Another good Loctite product is wicking grade 290.

Both of these are removable, medium strength sealants. That said, some heat usually helps with removal.

Before applying the Loctite, thoroughly clean the inside and outside threads with Acetone.
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Re: KDX Restoration X 2

Post by Tyl3r »

That plug your looking for... see this. Ran into a similar situation lol I used a loctite PTFE pipe sealant on the threads (just what I had laying around). No leaks what so ever after a season and a half of riding on it.
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Re: KDX Restoration X 2

Post by sam the kdx man »

What forks do you have on the KDX220? (Edited to condense two posts)
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Re: KDX Restoration X 2

Post by KDXGarage »

"The 220 has a set of '98 KX250 forks."

He listed it.
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