Stripped countershaft :-(

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Stripped countershaft :-(

Postby ronopolis » 12:17 am Jan 11 2018

I do most of the work myself on my KDX 220. But I had it in a shop for some issues (turns out I had "cold seized" the engine and screwed up the rings). Anyway, that is not the point. The bike was in the shop, they fixed the top end and a lot of little stuff. I've used this shop and trust them.

Here is where the story goes south. They were done with all the repairs. Were out in the parking lot testing it out and the bike stops moving. Because the countershaft is stripped.

Image

The countershaft is spinning but the sprocket is not moving. This had obviously been wearing down for who knows how long. I have a few questions.

1) How does this happen? The front sprocket was installed incorrectly? I've had the bike about 3 years, never touched the front sprocket. Wish I had!

2) To fix this obviously the engine comes back out (they had just put the bike back together after the new top end), split the case etc. etc. I've almost done everything on this bike except splitting the case. But I'm just running out of enthusiasm here. I honestly don't think I have the skill or tools to fix this myself. The labor to replace the crankshaft is something close to eight hours. The shop is trying to work with me and give a deal -- but between the first set of repairs (they did a lot of little stuff along with the top end) and the new work, I could almost buy another used KDX.

I guess I'm mostly just writing to A) ask how this happened and B) whine like a little girl :wah:

Any suggestions? Words of encouragement?
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Stripped countershaft :-(

Postby Jim B » 12:56 am Jan 11 2018

ronopolis wrote:Any suggestions?

If it was me, I'd buy a high quality sprocket and weld it to the countershaft. I'd remove the ECU/CDI from the bike before I did any welding. I'd also probably remove the stator, just to be safe.
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Stripped countershaft :-(

Postby SS109 » 01:23 am Jan 11 2018

I believe that happens due to poor fitting and excessively worn CS sprockets. I only use Renthal CS sprockets because they fit tighter to the shaft (ie; less slop) than any other I have found. Second, change out the CS sprocket as soon as you start noticing any serious wear on the teeth or any slop between it and the splines.

If you just want to get it running for now you could tack weld it on like Jim suggested and save up for a bottom end rebuild down the road. Or... you can opt for a bottom end rebuild. If you choose the latter the engine will pretty much be new and you shouldn't have any problems for a long time. If you were closer I would gladly help you do the work.
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Stripped countershaft :-(

Postby Jim B » 01:41 am Jan 11 2018

SS109 wrote:I only use Renthal CS sprockets because they fit tighter to the shaft (ie; less slop) than any other I have found.
Great info!

SS109 wrote:If you just want to get it running for now you could tack weld it on like Jim suggested...
I wasn't really suggesting tack welding, although I don't think it would need to be welded all the way around the circumference of the countershaft.
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Re: Stripped countershaft :-(

Postby Jason » 02:20 am Jan 11 2018

I would guess some poor fit or improper circlip? Since you say you never touched it, maybe someone put the wrong non-OEM circlip on the sprocket?

Since the picture shows a fair bit of wear, tear and oil smudge, I see she is not a garage queen. Weld on a new sprocket PERFECTLY straight and be sure as hell to put on the longest lasting one you think you can find. Hopefully you can come back to it when the time comes again.
Thank you, Julien D for all your hard work!

PLEASE! Do not "dip" PWK Keihin carbs in Berryman's to clean them! It will damage the internal o-ring (jet block gasket).
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Re: Stripped countershaft :-(

Postby david » 08:37 am Jan 11 2018

Constantly ridden with dirt on the shaft/sprocket contributes to the wear also. All the oil and dirt buildup in the pic tell me you rarely wash the bike. Keeping things clean and lubed properly helps them last longer. If you decide to weld the sprocket on, make sure you replace the oil seal and the shaft sleeve o-ring first and that whoever welds it keeps the seal area cool with a wet rag as the rubber is only able to handle 250°.
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Re: Stripped countershaft :-(

Postby Timtee » 12:21 pm Jan 11 2018

Before you weld a sprocket on, I would replace the seal, the bushing(or whatever Kawi calls it) and the two o-rings.
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Re: Stripped countershaft :-(

Postby Jason » 12:35 pm Jan 11 2018

Yes, because you won't be having the chance again for a while.
Thank you, Julien D for all your hard work!

PLEASE! Do not "dip" PWK Keihin carbs in Berryman's to clean them! It will damage the internal o-ring (jet block gasket).
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Re: Stripped countershaft :-(

Postby ohgood » 07:53 pm Jan 11 2018

watch YouTube videos of how to split the case and do it right. you'll spend $19 on bearings from amazon (I did) and have it back together in no time..
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Re: Stripped countershaft :-(

Postby kdxdazz » 08:57 pm Jan 11 2018

ohgood wrote:watch YouTube videos of how to split the case and do it right. you'll spend $19 on bearings from amazon (I did) and have it back together in no time..

the bearings aren't the issue its the stripped countershaft.

i am going through the same thing now, i've just orderd a sprocket from a 1982 kx250,its 3mm wider at the splines so should pick up whats left of the splines on the shaft,then you can tack weld it on,just my idea so don't know if it will work
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Re: Stripped countershaft :-(

Postby Jason » 09:48 pm Jan 11 2018

Two options: The right way or the cheap way. (like most repairs and maintenance)
Thank you, Julien D for all your hard work!

PLEASE! Do not "dip" PWK Keihin carbs in Berryman's to clean them! It will damage the internal o-ring (jet block gasket).
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Re: Stripped countershaft :-(

Postby bufftester » 11:28 pm Jan 11 2018

What kind of shop does the top end work and doesn't bother to clean the motor and do a basic inspection? As my dad used to say "You can use any combination of right, quick and cheap...but you only get to pick two."
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Re: Stripped countershaft :-(

Postby Friedom » 12:13 pm Jan 12 2018

You could do as much of the work as you're comfortable with and have them do the rest.
I.e. remove engine, clean it, remove the rotor, stator, clutch, kick gears, top end and everything else that's a bolt on affair, and just bring them an engine ready to split.
It'll be good experience, save you a lot of money, and when you're in that far you'll probably realize that you could buy an engine splitter and puller for less than they'll charge and finish it up yourself.

Probably worth replacing the bearings and seals while you're in there and be top notch when you put it all together with pride and money left over.
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Re: Stripped countershaft :-(

Postby doakley » 01:11 pm Jan 12 2018

I've never seen this on any bike before. Just wondering if consistently running chain too tight could contribute to this as well?
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Re: Stripped countershaft :-(

Postby Timtee » 03:00 pm Jan 12 2018

ohgood wrote:watch YouTube videos of how to split the case and do it right. you'll spend $19 on bearings from amazon (I did) and have it back together in no time..



What bearings are you proposing to replace? I am not following how that will help this situation.

If I have the cases apart then I am replacing all bearings and seals. And I definitely wouldnt use bearings/seals from Amazon. OEM all the way on parts that arent easily accessible/replaceable.
Last edited by Timtee on 04:52 pm Jan 12 2018, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Stripped countershaft :-(

Postby kdx633 » 03:27 pm Jan 12 2018

doakley wrote:I've never seen this on any bike before. Just wondering if consistently running chain too tight could contribute to this as well?

thats exactly what does it.
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Re: Stripped countershaft :-(

Postby Timtee » 06:43 pm Jan 12 2018

The “cheap vs proper fix” decision may be easier when you see the price of that shaft.
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Re: Stripped countershaft :-(

Postby Jason » 09:34 pm Jan 12 2018

You talkin' ta me?? :razz:
Thank you, Julien D for all your hard work!

PLEASE! Do not "dip" PWK Keihin carbs in Berryman's to clean them! It will damage the internal o-ring (jet block gasket).
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Re: Stripped countershaft :-(

Postby Timtee » 10:59 pm Jan 12 2018

Jason wrote:You talkin' ta me?? :razz:



No, that was meant for the OP.

That shaft alone is around $140.

If you only plan on keeping the bike for a year or two, then weld on the sprocket.

If you want to keep it for a long time, rebuild the bottom end properly and then dont worry about it for 20 years.
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Re: Stripped countershaft :-(

Postby Jason » 11:35 pm Jan 12 2018

I was just messing with ya. I have several spare E bikes, so looking for parts means NOT FAR for me on the E bikes. :grin:

Just $103 at Partzilla, a hell of a deal. I can't believe it's that cheap. :boogie:

EDIT ADD ON:

This Kawasaki 13128-1164 SHAFT-TRANSMISSION OUTPUT fits the following models and components:

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1989 KDX200 - KDX200-E1 Transmission

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1990 KDX200 - KDX200-E2 Transmission

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1991 KDX200 - KDX200-E3 Transmission

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1992 KDX200 - KDX200-E4 Transmission

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1993 KDX200 - KDX200-E5 Transmission

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1994 KDX200 - KDX200-E6 Transmission

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1995 KDX200 - KDX200-H1 Transmission

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1996 KDX200 - KDX200-H2 Transmission

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1997 KDX220R - KDX220-A4 Transmission

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1997 KDX200 - KDX200-H3 Transmission

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1998 KDX200 - KDX200-H4 Transmission

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1998 KDX220R - KDX220-A5 Transmission

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1999 KDX200 - KDX200-H5 Transmission

Kawasaki Motorcycle 1999 KDX220R - KDX220-A6 Transmission

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2000 KDX220R - KDX220-A7 Transmission

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2000 KDX200 - KDX200-H6 Transmission

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2001 KDX200 - KDX200-H7 Transmission

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2001 KDX220R - KDX220-A8 Transmission

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2002 KDX200 - KDX200-H8 Transmission

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2002 KDX220R - KDX220-A9 Transmission

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2003 KDX200 - KDX200-H9 Transmission

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2003 KDX220R - KDX220-A10 Transmission

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2004 KDX200 - KDX200-H10 Transmission

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2004 KDX220R - KDX220-A11 Transmission

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2005 KDX220R - KDX220-A12 Transmission

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2005 KDX200 - KDX200-H11 Transmission

Kawasaki Motorcycle 2006 KDX200 - KDX200H6F Transmission
Thank you, Julien D for all your hard work!

PLEASE! Do not "dip" PWK Keihin carbs in Berryman's to clean them! It will damage the internal o-ring (jet block gasket).
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