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got any pics?

It may be possible to just have it honed or bored and honed. You need to be sure of what size bore and piston is in there right now.

I think they can actually plate over a liner, but I would say why bother.

Sorry for the late reply, here's some pics. I was hoping I was paranoid and the Mag was attracted to the studs but after removing them and the valves the weaker magnet still sticks. Upon close inspection you can see a circular line.

Is your camera as old as your bike?? LOL

That looks plated to me. If so, a repair and replate is needed. Check out Power Seal or Millenium.

nah I've only had a problem with this forum and pics, oh well. magnet sticking tells me its sleeved. unless these newer magnets stick to aluminum?!

Sorry about the trouble with pics.

I'm with Jason, it does look like a plated cylinder. That's weird about the magnet. It shouldn't stick. If you could clean up the port areas really well and try to get a clear shot of one of the port edges, that might give a definitive answer. If it is in fact sleeved, that sleeve is probably shot.

Nickel is magnetic. I used to work with pure nickel all the time, very magnetic indeed.

Electrofusion is tungsten if they still did it like in the 70's.

The surface of the plating / coating is NOT aluminum. That would be a quick destruction for the cylinder and piston.

I assumed that a sub-millimeter layer of Nikasil Wouldn't be enough to be magnetic. I understand the coating isn't aluminum. I was staring to hope its sleeve just for the cost of getting the cylinder welded and replated is going to cost more than what I paid for the bike.

I'm going to take it to a local machine shop instead of trying to deal with pictures on this site. I'll let you guys know what I find

Take it to a motorcycle shop if you can.

Click on post reply and then attachment for adding the pictures.

Good luck.

Here's some pictures. Got the best view of the booger as I could. Been washing with soap and water to get the firet later of gunk off. As you can see in the pictures the cylinder is showing a little rust, another indication of a sleeve right?

http://www.powersealusa.com/

http://www.mt-llc.com/

It is currently plated. It is damaged. The cylinder needs to be repaired and replated, plus new piston / rings / wrist pin, circlips, small end bearing, top end gaskets, coolant.

Either buy a piston from the cylinder company or send your new one along with it. If you are not sure on the measurement, you may want to just buy one from them, as they will have the tools to match it up best.

Thanks for the pictures.

Should I also replace the main bearing and have the crank rebuilt? in case any of the plating of cylinder got in to the bearings? I beside the left side seal is bad anyway

Safer? Yes. Necessary? Maybe. Have you checked the play of the lower end crankshaft bearing (big end bearing)?

The left side bearing must come out to replace the seal behind it. If you use a puller, then the bearing is shot, and has to be replaced, in my opinion. If you submerge it in boiling water, oven, etc. to heat up the left side and then try to pop it on a wooden table to get the bearing to fall out, it may be OK. Read up on bearing removal. It is a fairly opinionated topic.

If you do decide to get the crankshaft rebuilt, new main bearings and seals, then barring catastrophe, ingesting muddy water, dirt getting past the air filter, it should last a LONG time with just the cycle of "new rings" / "new piston and rings" / "new rings", etc.

I only have calipers so I would have to split the cases to measure play regardless. When bottomed out and tapped with a mallet I can hear a click/tick which to me means main bearings are bad anyways. Was planning on replacing anyway since everything is apart. For clarification: measuring big end play is measuring the gap in between the rod and the crank as well as home much the rod moves back n forth (measuring at the top) right?

Feeler gauge for side play

With a chunk missing, I would be worried about all the bearings, big end, small end, mains