Suspension Revalve Work

karbon_dunn · Post by **karbon_dunn** » 11:04 am Jan 02 2005

Being that I am not in any way mechanically inclined I need a few good links/places that do suspension/re-valve work. I found a few out on the internet but am wanting opinions/recommendations if anyone has had their suspension sent out and what results/discrepancies/rant/raves anyone has had on work done on their bikes. I looking at getting suspension work done on two '93 KDX200's.

BJH · Post by **BJH** » 12:12 pm Jan 02 2005

From what I understand FRP is your best bet for KDX suspension work. I haven't had it done yet but everyone raves about it.
http://www.frpoffroad.com
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skipro3 · Post by **skipro3** » 09:28 pm Jan 02 2005

I have the KX front suspension on my bike and used Race Tech. I would recommend them for your stock KDX forks as well because the Race Tech company trains and certifies their franchised dealers. Otherwise you may just get some pimplefaced kid with a wrench who doesn't know what torque even means putting in your high dollar suspension parts.

canyncarvr · Post by **canyncarvr** » 06:35 pm Jan 03 2005

And this makes three (different places)....

mx-tech did mine (forks). While I haven't compared them to other aftermarket pieces, I'm happy with them.

He's fairly close to you, too...I think.

http://www.mx-tech.com/core.asp

A local tuner (house of horsepower) revalved my shock..and I'm very happy with that, too.

karbon_dunn · Post by **karbon_dunn** » 09:20 am Jan 04 2005

Thanks for the input. I think I will be sending them to mx-tech for the rebuild's after doing some more research and what input I have gotten.

Canyncarvr, I am not quite sure what you meant by 'He's close to you...'? Do you mean House of Horsepower?

After getting this engine rebuilt, shocks rebuilt, new bushings, bearings, plastic etc I should have just went out and bought a new bike....oh well this is funner. Then again if I don't spend it the wife would on her stuff.

Post by **KDXGarage** » 12:14 pm Jan 04 2005

karbon_dunn, have you already had any work done on the suspension? Did you change the fork springs or anything like that?

karbon_dunn · Post by **karbon_dunn** » 12:48 pm Jan 04 2005

No I have not done anything on them since I have had the bike/bikes. They guy I bought them from does not think they have ever been serviced.

Post by **KDXGarage** » 12:59 pm Jan 04 2005

The guy I bought my '94 from said he had Race Tech install different springs and Gold Valves front and rear. I haven't disassembled them to check, but it seems to ride well for trail riding/enduro. I have changed the fork oil (which requires removing the springs) on my '94. It is not too hard and I can walk you through it if you want to try just changing the fork springs first. The stock fork springs are too light for normal use.

If neither bike has had any service, then they could sure use an oil change front and rear.

It's not too hard to change the shock spring either, if need be. How much do you weigh with all your riding gear on?

I like to do as much work as I can on my own stuff instead of sending it out. It's important to know what your limitations are though. There are certain areas I know I should leave to the pros.

"A man's got to know his limitations." - Dirty Harry :-)

karbon_dunn · Post by **karbon_dunn** » 01:50 pm Jan 04 2005

"A man's got to know his limitations." - Dirty Harry :-). I think that begins once you stick a wrench in my hand, believe me I know my limitations.

I think this time I am going to send them in for service and get them completely rebuilt/revalved this time. Thanks for the tip on the springs though I had forgotten about that. I'm between 175-180 without gear so probably about another 10-15 w/camelpak and all.
I may change my mind being that doing the suspension was the last thing on my list to take care of depending on how much money is spent on everything else.

canyncarvr · Post by **canyncarvr** » 03:10 pm Jan 04 2005

re: 'He's close to you...'?

MX-Tech is in Illinois. 'Close' not meaning I'd want to WALK over there or anything, but not 1/2 way across the country neither!

karbon_dunn · Post by **karbon_dunn** » 04:33 pm Jan 04 2005

I understand now. Thanks for the clarification.

Post by **KDXGarage** » 05:17 pm Jan 04 2005

If you haven't already been there, I think the site is http://www.mx-tech.com. It used to be $175 for a revalve (forks or shock, not both, it is $350 for both). You should get some different springs. They charge $80 for those. New bushings and seals are a little over $100, then there is shipping both ways. Do you feel like the forks and shock need a revalve?? How could you tell with the stock fork springs still in there is why I ask.

If you are going to send them your forks and shock, then you will have to at least do some wrenching. Aren't your bikes near new? If so, are you sure they would need (on the forks for example), new oil seals, dust seals, inner and outer bushings (that is what rebuild means to me)? Taking the forks off was more work than changing the oil and springs.

Unless you have the money to blow, it might be worthwhile to hold off on a revalve until you try them out with fresh oil and springs of the proper spring rate.

If you can take the forks off to ship them off, then you can surely change the oil and swap in some stiffer springs. It would only cost around $100 to change the springs and oil ($90 shipped for some springs - even less if you got them from Jeff Fredette at http://www.frpoffroad.com) and about $10 for one liter of 5 weight fork oil. The '93 and '94 forks only require one 1L bottle of oil to change the oil in both fork legs.

I really think you should try fresh oil and correct springs before deciding you need a revlave. Now, if you have the money to spend, then that is a different story. :-)

As far as the shock, changing the oil in it is more involved, so I won't try to talk you into doing that yourself. If you decide to try the fork oil an spring change by yourself, let me know if you want any tips. I just did my '94 forks a couple of months ago.

Thanks.

wanaride · Post by **wanaride** » 11:12 am Jan 05 2005

I'm with Jason...changing the fork oil and springs is actually quite easy. Believe me, I'm mechanically challenged myself, and if I can do it, you can too!

I didn't mess with changing the shock oil...I had a local shop do that and re-spring it at the same time.

Post by **KDXGarage** » 11:46 am Jan 05 2005

If you get a shop to change your shock oil, tell them you want your old spring back. Maybe you can sell it on eBay at least.

karbon_dunn · Post by **karbon_dunn** » 12:28 pm Jan 05 2005

OK I will attempt to do this myself. If I lose an eye all blame is going to Jason and Wanaride for talking me into this and stating 'I can do it'...great now I feel like I'm reading to my twins about the little train that could.

Both bikes have less than 1000 miles on them so minus the yearly age of the bikes they are relatively new since most of their life has been sitting in a garage or barn.

OK I will really go out on a limb here and ask since I guess I am willing to attempt to do my forks myself how hard would it be to do the shock also? The bike I have completely stripped down to the frame. I guess if it isn't to difficult a task then I might as well attempt this also unless it is far to difficult.

Post by **fuzzy** » 12:58 pm Jan 05 2005

If you're going to do it yourself I would do as some others have and purchase your valves(race-tech) from fredette. He will take info from you and send the shim stacks in 'ready to install' fashion. These are some mixed opinions as to how harsh/soft his setups are, but you can bet they will be much better than stock and you'll be in the ballpark if you need to do some fine-tuning of the shim stacks...

Post by **KDXGarage** » 03:35 pm Jan 05 2005

karbon_dunn, what all are you wanting to do the forks and shock? Please note this is different than "what are you wanting to have done". I am glad to hear you are going to do some of the work yourself. I suggest you do the forks first. Changing the oil in your shock is harder than changing the oil in your forks. If you have a hard time changing fork oil and springs, then you shouldn't try the shock. If you think it wasn't so bad and don't mind a little tougher challenge, then you can move on to the shock.

Do you have a service manual for your bikes? If so, look on the back and make sure the part number ends in -02, as that is the 1989 - 1994 manual and the -01 is just for 1989, though most things apply to your '93's. There is no USD fork info in the -01 manual. To make matters worse, the wording in the -02 manual is not perfect.

Have you got the fork tubes out of the triple clamps and the triple clamps out of the head tube? I Hope not, as there is an important first step that usually needs to be done when the fork tubes are still in the clamps and the clamps are still on the bike.

karbon_dunn · Post by **karbon_dunn** » 05:30 pm Jan 05 2005

The manuals I will have to check on. I have two of them and I know one is newer than the other.

Skipping to the hoping part....the forks are out of the triple. The triple though is not out of the head tube so putting the forks back in is not that big of a deal if I remember right....I think 6 bolts all together.

I'll check on the manuals I have and get back with you on that.

Post by **KDXGarage** » 06:27 pm Jan 05 2005

Thanks for checking on the manuals. They made the 1989 manual, then made at least one supplement. I can't remember right now how many supplements there were, but as far as thick, regular sized manuals, there were two. Just check for the -02 at the end of the part number or look for (I think) chapter 15 for the addendum/fork section.

On the fork tubes and triple clamps, the method I recommend is to slide one tube back up in the triple clamp and tighten the bolt on the lower triple clamp. DO NOT tighten the top two bolts in the upper triple clamp. Turn the triple clamps toward the left (as if you were sitting on the bike). Loosen the fork cap (just break it free/loosen, don't remove it yet). Then loosen the lower triple clamp bolt and remove the fork tube. Do the same on the other fork tube. Be sure to not overtighten the lower triple clamp bolt. I am not saying you have to use a torque wrench just for this stage, but it sure wouldn't hurt and you will need to use a torque wrench when you are putting it all back together anyway.

The top bolt/fork cap is 30mm.

When it says, "fork spring holder", that means 16mm open end wrench or adjustable wrench (Crescent wrench).

You won't need a "rod puller". You can use your fingers and a set of needle nose pliers.

If you have a Tractor Supply Company in your area, go get a 60cc syringe (about $1.50) and about a foot of clear tubing ($.25 or so) that will fit on the end of the syringe. That, along with two zip ties, is your new fork oil level guage.

Those fork springs will come with some PVC type tubing. You may want to cut some spacers to make up the difference in length between the stock springs and the new FRP springs. I think stock are 480.5mm and FRP springs are 470mm. You would need to cut some 10.5mm spacers to retain the stock amount of preload. You can try different ones later on if the stock amount of preload is not suitable for you.

If you have any questions on anything, be sure to let me know. It is not hard.

canyncarvr · Post by **canyncarvr** » 10:50 pm Jan 05 2005

Another note generally not noted anywhere.

When it comes to tightening the fork cap, hold the cap and twist the fork. Opposite (generally done) is hold the fork and twist the cap.

The latter method seems to end up with 'clicking' and 'rubbing' noises.

Jason. Do these springs have clips on the bottom of them? In which case, make sure you get the clip OUT with the spring. If for whatever reason the clip stays in the fork, it will NOT center itself satisfactorily on the spring when the put-together is done.

'H' models have such clips. Maybe you 'ain't got no cartridge...I like the ROD!' guys don't.

Is this one'a those 'friendly relationship' posts I was reading about earlier?

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Suspension Revalve Work

Suspension Revalve Work