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Steel kips valves and stator

Posted: 11:43 am Oct 09 2017
by El Gran Jamon
How has been the experience with these so far? Working good? Thinking of getting a set to keep ready.


Also replaced ignition stator again, they are lasting about 1200 miles or so from ricky stator...anything I should be looking at that burns em out so quick? Coil, other stuff checks out fine..

Any way to get a list flywheel removal tool to fix this in the field?

Re: Steel kips valves and stator

Posted: 03:50 pm Oct 09 2017
by david
BDK KIPS valves are very well made. You won't be disappointed.

Re: Steel kips valves and stator

Posted: 08:13 pm Oct 09 2017
by El Gran Jamon
Thanks, anyone have tips on stator? Fault, quick change tools, etc? I can change one out at home in about 30 min but don't want to carry the heavy flywheel holder on trail

Re: Steel kips valves and stator

Posted: 07:57 am Oct 10 2017
by david
Maybe try a good used OEM stator. I'm still running on a 27 yr old unit.

Re: Steel kips valves and stator

Posted: 11:25 am Oct 10 2017
by El Gran Jamon
Alright, probably pick em up, keep bike for the long haul... cheaper than a new ktm 350 exc! Plated as well.

Re: Steel kips valves and stator

Posted: 02:13 pm Oct 10 2017
by Jaguar
when you press the kill button you are shorting out the stator for a high amount of current to go thru it till the crank stops turning.
I don't know why that is the common design but if instead you change to a switch that opens the wire going to the CDI then that would be one less life-shortening stress on the stator

Re: Steel kips valves and stator

Posted: 09:05 pm Oct 10 2017
by El Gran Jamon
Thanks, am aware of that, I usually kill it by stalling and avoid high rpm kills.

Re: Steel kips valves and stator

Posted: 11:40 am Oct 11 2017
by pumpguy
Jaguar wrote: I don't know why that is the common design but if instead you change to a switch that opens the wire going to the CDI then that would be one less life-shortening stress on the stator
Possibly a hold over from the days of points and condenser magneto ignition systems. Running a wire from the condenser connection to a push button normally open (horn button) ground switch will short out the system and kill the engine when the button is pushed.

To kill the ignition on the KDX by opening the CDI lead would require a normally closed switch. Possibly a headlight switch would work, although this is not "normally" open or closed.