Steel kips valves and stator

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Steel kips valves and stator

Postby El Gran Jamon » 11:43 am Oct 09 2017

How has been the experience with these so far? Working good? Thinking of getting a set to keep ready.


Also replaced ignition stator again, they are lasting about 1200 miles or so from ricky stator...anything I should be looking at that burns em out so quick? Coil, other stuff checks out fine..

Any way to get a list flywheel removal tool to fix this in the field?
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Re: Steel kips valves and stator

Postby david » 03:50 pm Oct 09 2017

BDK KIPS valves are very well made. You won't be disappointed.
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Re: Steel kips valves and stator

Postby El Gran Jamon » 08:13 pm Oct 09 2017

Thanks, anyone have tips on stator? Fault, quick change tools, etc? I can change one out at home in about 30 min but don't want to carry the heavy flywheel holder on trail
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Re: Steel kips valves and stator

Postby david » 07:57 am Oct 10 2017

Maybe try a good used OEM stator. I'm still running on a 27 yr old unit.
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'07 Vulcan 2000 Classic LT (totaled 4/25/15)
'82 Honda GL500 (sold)
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Re: Steel kips valves and stator

Postby El Gran Jamon » 11:25 am Oct 10 2017

Alright, probably pick em up, keep bike for the long haul... cheaper than a new ktm 350 exc! Plated as well.
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Re: Steel kips valves and stator

Postby Jaguar » 02:13 pm Oct 10 2017

when you press the kill button you are shorting out the stator for a high amount of current to go thru it till the crank stops turning.
I don't know why that is the common design but if instead you change to a switch that opens the wire going to the CDI then that would be one less life-shortening stress on the stator
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Re: Steel kips valves and stator

Postby El Gran Jamon » 09:05 pm Oct 10 2017

Thanks, am aware of that, I usually kill it by stalling and avoid high rpm kills.
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Re: Steel kips valves and stator

Postby pumpguy » 11:40 am Oct 11 2017

Jaguar wrote:I don't know why that is the common design but if instead you change to a switch that opens the wire going to the CDI then that would be one less life-shortening stress on the stator


Possibly a hold over from the days of points and condenser magneto ignition systems. Running a wire from the condenser connection to a push button normally open (horn button) ground switch will short out the system and kill the engine when the button is pushed.

To kill the ignition on the KDX by opening the CDI lead would require a normally closed switch. Possibly a headlight switch would work, although this is not "normally" open or closed.
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