KDXRIDER.NET

Jason wrote:following photo from phospher site (good job to him!)



Since you gave about zero background info, did you just install the rod kit? What have you JUST done and how did it get to the point in the picture? Thanks.

the rod was installed about 2-3 years ago. the reason for having the top end apart is for a sticking/hanging power valve.

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Jason wrote:If it is too short, how do you have proper compression?

Congratulations on your bravery and fearlessness to run a $49 connecting rod kit.

proper compression ? I probably don't . never checked it with a gauge. never "thought" I needed to . guess that's what I get for assuming. I will run a compression test soon though.
bike has always started with ease, idled good, revved good, and had decent power, really can't complain, but . . .
I guess that what I get for being a cheap ass !

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This is in a way really cool. Please do a compression test for us!
Running no base gasket should help a little, right?

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Surely it is just setting there and not ran like that

Jason wrote:Surely it is just setting there and not ran like that

I wish I could tell you that. I've been riding it like this for the last 2-3 years.

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with no base gasket??

Jason wrote:with no base gasket??

Probably had a thin layer of gasket maker.

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Jason wrote:with no base gasket??

negative. I was running it with a base gasket. the pic I posted was just a mock up .

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Friedom wrote:

Jason wrote:with no base gasket??

Probably had a thin layer of gasket maker.

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yes. my plan is no gasket. with a thin layer of gasket maker

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What about getting the base milled down 3 mm? Would that work?

Jason wrote:What about getting the base milled down 3 mm? Would that work?

I thought about that , but I believe it would add too much space between the power valve actuating gears. so I'm just gonna run no base gasket and thin layer of gasket maker

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Could mill it off the top instead.

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But then your alignment pins.. hmm

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Oh yeah, the KIPS. OOPS.

jimmy97 wrote:

Jason wrote:Surely it is just setting there and not ran like that

I wish I could tell you that. I've been riding it like this for the last 2-3 years.

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Well, if it's been running for 2-3 years with the wrong rod and resulting way too much combustion chamber volume @ TDC and probably also screwed up port timing (transfer and exhaust) and you have been happy with it's performance, I don't see any harm with cleaning up the KIPS and then using it the way it is.

IIWM, I would get some idea of exactly how things are with respect to port timing and compression pressure. Before you put the head back on, it's relatively easy to mount a degree wheel on the crank shaft and then plot out the degrees duration the transfer and exhaust ports are open, and then compare with standard published figures which are 120 degrees total duration for the transfer, and, with the kips closed, 157.6 degrees total duration for the exhaust.

Later on, when you need to split the cases for something else, you can re-do the crankshaft and install the correct rod.

It would be interesting to learn about the difference in performance after the correct rod is installed.

On second thought, don't cut anything, as that is creating an additional problem to take care of the first.

Run it with a gasket.

just did a compression test (cold) 120 psi and as far as a degree wheel goes, well, I already torqued the head back on, but still I would like to know duration of exhaust and what not.

could this still be done by looking through exhaust port and watching piston that way? Or does the head have to come back off?

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jimmy97 wrote:just did a compression test (cold) 120 psi and as far as a degree wheel goes, well, I already torqued the head back on, but still I would like to know duration of exhaust and what not.

could this still be done by looking through exhaust port and watching piston that way? Or does the head have to come back off?

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First you would need to determine TDC. I suppose you could do that with a rod or maybe something a little bit fancier through the spark plug hole. Maybe you already did that and made marks on the flywheel and case. BDC is 180 degrees from TDC.

Then you would need to determine, in degrees either side of BDC, the open duration of the transfer and exhaust ports. This is usually done visually with the head off. Maybe you could get hold of a fiberscope that would fit through the spark plug hole and do it that way.

OK . Just degreed my exhaust and with this 3mm shorter rod is 174° total open duration with kips closed .
88° away from bdc one way and 86° away from bdc the other way or with tdc @ 0° , 94° and 268° .
Did I do this right? or explain it right ? If so
I gained roughly 16 ° total duration from stock.
I'm not taking the head back off to do the intake. But wouldn't it add 16 ° to the total duration of the transfer ports too ?

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