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Hi

I'm struggling to find the cause of the rough running of my '99 kdx220r and on removing the generator cover to have a check in there I found about a teaspoon of fuel/oil in there - is it normal for a bit of mix in there ? Or should it be completely dry ?




Dan

Should be dry. Sign of leaking crank seal.

If you power wash your bike you may get some water in behind the generator cover, likewise with condensation or ride through deep water....

The crank seals may of gone hard through lack of use which will let a small amount of mix through.... Start & run the bike for 5 /10 minutes then whilst the bike is at idle spray some wd40 or similar in & around the generator area..... If your revs begin to pick up or die then it's likely your crank seals are shot.

tr7dan wrote:Hi

I'm struggling to find the cause of the rough running of my '99 kdx220r and on removing the generator cover to have a check in there I found about a teaspoon of fuel/oil in there - is it normal for a bit of mix in there ? Or should it be completely dry ?




Dan

pressure test the cylinder. is very easy to get premix into the stator cover if the electric wires grommet isn't tight

If it smells and feels like fairly clean premix, it's probably coming from the LH crank seal. If it's wet and gunky and slightly oily, that could be a gasket or wire grommet. I don't see any water in that pic.

Pop the flywheel off and see if oil is leaking out of the seal like this:

Visual check / pressure / vacuum

Also, search for Eric Gorr and the intentions and sealant

This is somewhat common on E models

Julien D wrote:If it smells and feels like fairly clean premix, it's probably coming from the LH crank seal. If it's wet and gunky and slightly oily, that could be a gasket or wire grommet. I don't see any water in that pic.

Yep, it was fresh mix - in fact when I first took the cover off there was about 2-3 times more liquid in there but in the few minutes it took to find my camera, most of the petrol had evaporated.

Just waiting on a magneto puller so I can get a visual check on the seal - wouldn't you know, the puller I've had in my workshop drawer for the past hundred years is a rh thread !!

Tbh I'm expecting the worst, so I guess that means new crank seals then - not the end of the world though as I have quite good workshop facilities and now that I've retired I even have time to do it

Dan

Magneto extractor arrived today so I had a look at the seal - this is exactly as is after removing coil plate with no cleaning... there's a bit of muck in there but it doesn't look catasrophic to me and it doesn't look like oil has been pouring down from the seal ...

Looks like a bad seal to me. Notice how there is more gunk at the bottom of the seal and it is wet? That is a classic weeping crank seal look IMO. Sorry.

SS109 wrote:Looks like a bad seal to me. Notice how there is more gunk at the bottom of the seal and it is wet? That is a classic weeping crank seal look IMO. Sorry.

Yes, it looks like it is leaking there.

Looks like a case in need of splitting

Just trying to get everything together before I start this - is there anything else that I will likely need other than the normal workshop tools and facilities or are there any other engine parts that would normally require replacement when separating the cases ?

my list so far

crank seals 92049-1365 x 2
piston kit inc gaskets -wiseco
oem head gasket 11004-1299 11004-1299
oem base gasket 11060-1659 11060-1659
bearings 92045-1120 x 2
drive shaft seal 92050-033
crankcase sealant
loctite
coolant
case separator
crank puller
seal driver
bearing driver
press

I have a full set of tools, compressor, air wrench, torque wrenches (x3), drills , good workshop with bench, lighting,etc. I don't have a press but they are so cheap to buy on ebay I will probably get one. The only other problem i can see is if the main bearings stay on the crank, in which case I will probably need a bearing splitter/ gear puller kit - again, very cheap to buy on ebay

thanks

Dan

Sounds like you got it all. If you get a piston kit that includes gaskets, it probably comes with the head and base gaskets already.

The bearings stayed in the case halves for me when I split the cases. From what I have seen, seems like that is the scenario for most people.

You may find other things in there that could use replacing as well. I know I replaced all of the seals that you could see from the outside of the motor (output shaft and brg, kicker, shifter) just for piece of mind. This thread may also be of help. It kind of sucks now with how the photos are (if you click on them, they will open in another tab) but it goes through the whole process: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... plit+cases

Personally, since you have everything apart and probably would like to never have to do it again, I would go a head and rebuild the crank with a new rod and replace every bearing, bushing, and thrust washer that can only be replaced by splitting the cases. For crank rebuilding I highly recommend Cooksey Crank. I use him for every engine build as his work is excellent.

Tyl3r wrote:The bearings stayed in the case halves for me when I split the cases. From what I have seen, seems like that is the scenario for most people.

Just the opposite for me on both my E and H series bikes. Both bearings stayed with the crank. Lucky me. Thankfully, Cooksey removes them for me.

Cheers for that

The bike is a time warp - 18 years old and as far as I can see has never been apart, every nut bolt and screw on the engine is original and untouched and it has only 1200 miles on it from new so I doubt if the bearings, thrust washers, etc. have any wear on them, but I will check all when it's apart. The seals of course, are more affected by time and non-use as the rubber hardens so yep, I'll check that out and any seals that are inboard of the cases will also be renewed.

Wish me luck



Dan

SS109 wrote:

Tyl3r wrote:The bearings stayed in the case halves for me when I split the cases. From what I have seen, seems like that is the scenario for most people.

Just the opposite for me on both my E and H series bikes. Both bearings stayed with the crank. Lucky me. Thankfully, Cooksey removes them for me.

I stand corrected!

Good luck on the rebuild! Pay attention to how everything comes apart and mark/label everything the best you can (that probably didn't need to be said, I'm sure you know that). I thought I did when I took mine apart...but it sat around for a year and moved around on my shelf a few times... I lost a couple little pieces in that time. Its really frustrating to have to wait a week for a 3 dollar part to come in so you can move to the next step

I took pics of my disassembly, it helped especially with the tranny.

Just getting everything back together but there is one bolt on the clutch cover which has a washer on it but I can't tell which bolt it is.

When I took the clutch outer cover off I didn't notice that one of the 30mm bolts had a washer on it and it isn't that clear from the parts list where it goes. It looks like the bolt nearest the operating lever boss - anybody know for sure ? Wonder why just one washer on one of the six bolts that hold the cover on ?

Its the one between the KIPS governor and the water pump, or the front most one nest to the stud. Not sure why that got a washer and the others didn't, but my 220 is the same way.