Needle clip position

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Needle clip position

Postby Greatbrit » 05:16 pm May 18 2017

Hi guys. I recently added a gnarly rev pipe to my kdx 220. Everyone says to lower the needle to the 3rd groove down. I did this but it made the bike bog and didnt idle. I played a bit with the air screw (slight turns) and idle screw to no avail. I also removed the airbox lid as recommended. Even when the bike was stock it would bog a little on the first quarter throttle.The carb is stock and i live near niagara falls. Anyone help me out ?
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Re: Needle clip position

Postby doakley » 10:00 pm May 18 2017

Seems to me you lowered the clip which made it richer, then you removed the air box lid giving it more air, which made it leaner. Why don't you go back to the original needle position, do a plug chop test, and see if you lose the bog?
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Needle clip position

Postby cornishwrecker220 » 12:01 am May 19 2017

Keep the air box lid on ....just remove the snorkel as 220s run better in this set up.

Needle position 4th groove from the top.
Main jet 148-150
Air screw between 1.5 & 2 turns out .... Bring the bike up to temp & adjust the air screw very slowly until you hear the tick over increase , I would imagine it to be nearer the 2 turn mark.

Hope this helps
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Re: Needle clip position

Postby Greatbrit » 06:41 am May 19 2017

doakley wrote:Seems to me you lowered the clip which made it richer, then you removed the air box lid giving it more air, which made it leaner. Why don't you go back to the original needle position, do a plug chop test, and see if you lose the bog?


I had already removed the air box lid before lowering the clip.
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Needle clip position

Postby Greatbrit » 06:42 am May 19 2017

cornishwrecker220 wrote:Keep the air box lid on ....just remove the snorkel as 220s run better in this set up.

Needle position 4th groove from the top.
Main jet 148-150
Air screw between 1.5 & 2 turns out .... Bring the bike up to temp & adjust the air screw very slowly until you hear the tick over increase , I would imagine it to be nearer the 2 turn mark.

Hope this helps


Wouldn't the 4th clip down make it super rich?
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Needle clip position

Postby cornishwrecker220 » 07:07 am May 19 2017

The needle on the 220 differs than that of the 200 & is half a clip richer....fit a new spark plug & run Fresh fuel & clean air filter before any jetting tweeks , clip position number 4 I believe is standard .... Try it & see how you get on then try a 148 main.
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Needle clip position

Postby Greatbrit » 10:19 am May 19 2017

cornishwrecker220 wrote:The needle on the 220 differs than that of the 200 & is half a clip richer....fit a new spark plug & run Fresh fuel & clean air filter before any jetting tweeks , clip position number 4 I believe is standard .... Try it & see how you get on then try a 148 main.


I thought 2nd from top is stock no?
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Needle clip position

Postby cornishwrecker220 » 11:42 am May 19 2017

I'm pretty sure middle is stock ( maybe someone else on here could verify)
It sounds like you have a lean bog on 1/3 throttle .....clip position 2 sounds a little too lean to me...every bike is different & what works for one necessarily doesn't work as well for others ..it's a quick swop to change the needle clip position , if the bog is still there then you may need to check & inspect your float height & also inspect the carb intake boot for cracks or leaks .

I run clip 4 in my 220, although my motor & carb are modified & tuned,it prefers to run on the rich side.
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Re: Needle clip position

Postby bufftester » 03:30 pm May 19 2017

220 Stock: MJ #145, PJ #42, Needle clip 3rd groove from top, AS 1.5 turns +/- 1/4 turn, Float height 16 mm, Throttle valve cutaway #5

Bears repeating, though it is monotonous...When jetting change only 1 thing at a time. If you remove the snorkel, rejet for that condition. If you then add a pipe, rejet for that condition. Change your oil or ratio? Rejet. Rebuilt top end? Rejet. And as cornish said, what works for one bike may not work for another, but certainly can be used as a starting point. I always start with stock jetting and record all the data. Then rejet for each change and record. That way I know what my baseline was, and what change each part necessitated. It does take time and it's not fun, but your bike will thank you for it.
2001 KX/KDX 220 Hybrid, 1999 KLX 300, 1995 RMX 250, 1992 GSX-R600, 1993 GSX-R750, 1994 GSX-R750, 1995 GSX-R750
Jetting Guide | Scheckaet's Newb Guide | Suspension Goodness
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