engine build for performance

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IceCold4x4
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engine build for performance

Post by IceCold4x4 »

Ok so after perusing here for a bit I think I've decided on the following stuff to do while rebuilding the engine on my "cheap" KDX 200

1st off getting millinium tech to do their big bore 225 kit and see what they can do about porting the cylinder
2nd already have the FMF gnarly woods pipe, and FMF powercore 2 silencer.
3rd just picked up a notoil foam filter.

things i'm thinking of doing

4. Moto Tassinari V force 3 reeds
5. RB carb (or should i try and use one of these CVK40's i've got laying around from the ZRX)
6. Jaguar cdi
7. anything else ?

I'd love to get high 30's maybe 40 HP to the rear wheel while maintaining a decent amount of torque. use will be single track, double track, general hooliganism, maybe some sumo street action once i get it tagged

Am I expecting too much? is that possible for less than 2 grand in the motor? and if so will this be a rebuild it every other time kind of deal?
Last edited by IceCold4x4 on 11:15 pm Apr 10 2017, edited 1 time in total.
1997 KDX 200 - FMF pipe and silencer and I have no clue what else yet.
2000 ZRX1100 - 1109 big bore, ZX11 carbs / cams/ double valve springs / igntion box / Kerker exhaust. It's Mad Max black and fast but rarely clean
2006 Volvo XC90 V8 - The toy hauler and sleeper. 300hp and AWD in a soccer mom SUV.
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6 Riders
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Re: engine build for performance

Post by 6 Riders »

The head mod needs to be done when the big bore kit is done. Might as well have them port the cylinder while it's there. Pretty sure your going to want a bigger or bored out carb for the big bore, might want to call RB for that. Consider the Jaguar CDI (posts on here about it).
As far as the V-Force, I think I've been reading about chipped reeds lately, I could be confused but no positive. Might have been on Thumper Talk. But I'm pretty sure there have been a lot of people mad about V-force reeds coming apart. If that is the case, you might want to consider either, just changing out the reeds to better reeds or the other brand reed block (for the life of me can't remember the name). Good bars, mounts and either solid cones, Honda cones or Scots performance cones (for the bars mounts). Don't forget bark busters. A really good chain and sprocket set up, change all the bearings.....This list can go on and on.....

Here is where I'd start.
Take the bike 100% apart.
Disable the motor, bag, tag and box all the motor parts, so as not to loose them. Take inventory of all the broken, worn out and misc junk **** that you need to buy....start a "wish list" at RMATV or the like....to get a cost estimator going.
At this point your going to see all the bearings and "little stuff" that you weren't thinking about. Once you get an idea of how much a rolling chassis is going to run you, then you can start thinking about the motor and motor "goodies".
newbbewb wrote:^what he said.
masterblaster wrote:Man 6 riders you rock.
*side note...I'm drunk, so try to read what I'm trying to say, instead of what I actually type
IceCold4x4
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Re: engine build for performance

Post by IceCold4x4 »

Oh the rest of the bike will wind up being a whole 'nother thread or 5 lol. I'm focusing on the engine first. I've got a decent idea of what's needed for the majority of the rest of the bike. But a running engine goes a long way to motivate the other things haha. Plus i'm about 260 lbs so the more power at my disposal the better.

I'm expecting for this bike to wind up with about 7 grand in it all said and done once it's the way I want it. I like to build things for myself and don't plan on getting rid of it ever. This bike is being saved from the graveyard regardless of cost.

I'll edit the first post to take some of you ideas into the fold.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
1997 KDX 200 - FMF pipe and silencer and I have no clue what else yet.
2000 ZRX1100 - 1109 big bore, ZX11 carbs / cams/ double valve springs / igntion box / Kerker exhaust. It's Mad Max black and fast but rarely clean
2006 Volvo XC90 V8 - The toy hauler and sleeper. 300hp and AWD in a soccer mom SUV.
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Re: engine build for performance

Post by KDXGarage »

Yes, get on your favorite OEM parts site and start loading up the cart or wish list for all the internal engine bearings.

I do not think you will get close to 40 HP from a KDX223. You have a woods pipe, not a REVTOTHEMOON. :grin:

If you really want that much power, just buy a KX250 and convert it to woods use or YZ250, or if you have 7 grand to put in it, just throw another $500 in and get a YZ250X.
Thank you for participating on kdxrider.net. :bravo:
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IceCold4x4
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Re: engine build for performance

Post by IceCold4x4 »

well if the pipe needs to be changed that can be done too lol, just stating what i already had. I like the underdog, hell i drag raced a 92 volvo turbo into the 12's years ago. And it'll take a while to quietly obtain that much to spend on the KDX without the wife knowing lol.
1997 KDX 200 - FMF pipe and silencer and I have no clue what else yet.
2000 ZRX1100 - 1109 big bore, ZX11 carbs / cams/ double valve springs / igntion box / Kerker exhaust. It's Mad Max black and fast but rarely clean
2006 Volvo XC90 V8 - The toy hauler and sleeper. 300hp and AWD in a soccer mom SUV.
Timtee
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Re: engine build for performance

Post by Timtee »

In the woods the type of power you have is more important than horse power figures.
IceCold4x4
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Re: engine build for performance

Post by IceCold4x4 »

That makes sense. I'm not hard set on any specific number persay just want all that the motor can give an still maintain some reliability. Reading around and finding some dyno stuff seemed to indicate that 40 to the rear tire would be at the top end of what I might expect on a full tilt build.

I guess I should have asked if you had 2g's to dedicate to building the 200 motor what all would you do to maximize it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
1997 KDX 200 - FMF pipe and silencer and I have no clue what else yet.
2000 ZRX1100 - 1109 big bore, ZX11 carbs / cams/ double valve springs / igntion box / Kerker exhaust. It's Mad Max black and fast but rarely clean
2006 Volvo XC90 V8 - The toy hauler and sleeper. 300hp and AWD in a soccer mom SUV.
Timtee
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Joined: 10:02 am Mar 08 2014
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Re: engine build for performance

Post by Timtee »

Assuming the engine is in good mechanical shape, you will go faster spending money on the suspension instead of the engine.

Plus you can ride longer and enjoy it more.
IceCold4x4
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Re: engine build for performance

Post by IceCold4x4 »

Timtee wrote:Assuming the engine is in good mechanical shape, you will go faster spending money on the suspension instead of the engine.

Plus you can ride longer and enjoy it more.
Engine is currently apart and at minimum is getting bored out (cylinder and piston were trashed due to neglect by previous owner) . I've learned that's its best to build a part once rather than slowly go for more and more. It's cheaper in the long run.

Suspension will be upgraded as I get better to where I can appreciate the difference and understand what it actually needs for my uses.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
1997 KDX 200 - FMF pipe and silencer and I have no clue what else yet.
2000 ZRX1100 - 1109 big bore, ZX11 carbs / cams/ double valve springs / igntion box / Kerker exhaust. It's Mad Max black and fast but rarely clean
2006 Volvo XC90 V8 - The toy hauler and sleeper. 300hp and AWD in a soccer mom SUV.
Timtee
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Joined: 10:02 am Mar 08 2014
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Re: engine build for performance

Post by Timtee »

I personally would keep the engine modifications to a reasonable level in order to maintain the famous KDX reliability. I would then put the rest into the suspension.
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