KDXRIDER.NET

I was thinking about buying a "clutch holding tool" like this one by tusk:


In reading reviews on different ones, I am seeing a lot of people saying they have always used a penny between the gears to remove that clutch nut. Well when I was tearing my whole bottom end apart, I just put the 1/2" impact on that nut and spun it right off, I didn't have to jam the gears with anything. Was that a no-no? Did I mess something up in doing that?

To put it back together, I didn't even consider that method as an option, I'd rather get a tool to properly hold it while I torque it to spec. Just wanted to see if I should be checking something for damage since I did this, before I go to reassemble. I am currently unaware of any damage from doing this, and just got the crank back from rebuild.

EBC makes pretty nice clutch holding tools; they're about $15. I usually buy them at Dennis Kirk.

I think that would be fine, have read of others doing it.

We use an impact wrench to remove the clutch nut on all our race car engines (xjr1300 Yamaha) we do this frequently and it hasn't caused any damage so far.

JL4049 wrote:We use an impact wrench to remove the clutch nut on all our race car engines (xjr1300 Yamaha) we do this frequently and it hasn't caused any damage so far.

I like this answer. My father has been teaching me the art of working on motorcycles, he's been doing it since the 60's. He has always recommended this method. I am glad a pro does the same lol

An impact driver is a great way to remove that nut.

I always use an impact wrench to get that nut off, so much easier. You will need a tool to hold it to torque it back on however.

Sweeeet! Thanks a bunch guys. Makes me feel a little better lol

Going a little off topic, do you think I can put my cases back together without a crank puller? I was thinking if I got the case sealant all on and ready and had the crank in the freezer, I'd be able to snug the two halves together with a rubber mallet and the case screws.

Tyl3r wrote: I was thinking if I got the case sealant all on and ready and had the crank in the freezer, I'd be able to snug the two halves together with a rubber mallet and the case screws.

Bad idea. The bearings need to be heated as well as the crank needing to be cold. Even if you heated the bearings and froze the crank, you only have a fraction of a second to fit them together. If you are using a mallet and case bolts dont waste your time with freezing the crank. That approach is too slow.

Use the right tools or the correct process. Otherwise you will probably regret the outcome.

Tyl3r wrote:Sweeeet! Thanks a bunch guys. Makes me feel a little better lol

Going a little off topic, do you think I can put my cases back together without a crank puller? I was thinking if I got the case sealant all on and ready and had the crank in the freezer, I'd be able to snug the two halves together with a rubber mallet and the case screws.

so, you want to take brand new bearings, fresh case sealant, and all those transmission shafts/bearings and just beat them together?


bad idea.

the easy way is the heat and cold methods outlined here on the forum. it's methodical, not slow. it's proven, and simple. i would not recommend beating on case halves of a twenty plus year old machine as an assembly process.

alright, crank puller it is... I had to check before I went and spent the money!

Which page in the KDX manual does it show the crank puller??

Anyone?

Crank puller is not in ANY KDX manual (yes, I have them all). Light press is what it says in the manual. As far as dealer info, K Tech article I believe, it shows to heat the case halves in oil (want fires with that??)

I too do not think you will have much luck in Suoerman quickly assembling it with the rubber hammer. Cranking on the bolts does not sound too great.

Jason wrote: Crank puller is not in ANY KDX manual

The manual is lacking more that just crank pullers, there is no carb jetting chart in there either

Maybe not in the most recent version, but they used to have them. Here is one I found for you on Google (ever heard of 'em?)

Praise to CDave

Jason wrote:Maybe not in the most recent version, but they used to have them. Here is one I found for you on Google (ever heard of 'em?)

Praise to CDave

Yep, I use google all the time, I used it to find that chart before i was a member here. But you can't use that chart to tell you what needle you need at 9,000', and if you don't know what jets you are supposed to have at sea level that chart can't be used to tell you what jets you need at 9,000' , even if you did know what jets you need at sea level that chart still isn't all that helpful.

Jason wrote:Which page in the KDX manual does it show the crank puller??

Anyone?

Crank puller is not in ANY KDX manual (yes, I have them all). Light press is what it says in the manual. As far as dealer info, K Tech article I believe, it shows to heat the case halves in oil (want fires with that??)

I too do not think you will have much luck in Suoerman quickly assembling it with the rubber hammer. Cranking on the bolts does not sound too great.

make sure you come up with a shimming method before you start assembly. the crank wants to be centered in the bearings and cases. it's a lot easier to drop it into place while things are COLD and HOT than it is to press on it once they're the same temperature.

i used a couple of old stickers. got within 2 thou of center. not that it matters, but i was happily suprised :-)

Try to use some sort of wedge to keep the crankshaft from pinching in on itself.

Just did my 92. Was totally worth the crank puller (I used a Tusk puller). Thermal expansion method didn't work that well. The right side bearings seemed like they bottomed when I dropped them in (case heated, bearing frozen), but I ended up using a puller to get it in all the way.
Left half barely even started letting the bearing in before it tightened up, exchanged heat and got the bearing stuck. Then I had to use a puller (well, sockets, nuts, washers and a long threaded rod). But once I got going, it went home happily.

Oh yeah, if you use a crank puller to pull it through the left engine half, there's no strain on the crank halves to warp them out of true.

"Fun Wheel Drive"

Yea, the puller seems to be the lowest risk method. I know that the manual says to press, but you also have to protect the two crank halves with a wedge while doing so. The puller takes that out of the equation. Also, if you're heating the bearing fits in the case, you run the risk of damaging the seals. The puller takes this out of the equation also.

Mine should be here Monday/Tuesday. Can't wait to get this going!