Adding a battery question

rowyco · Post by **rowyco** » 03:16 pm Feb 20 2017

I'm looking to add a battery to my system that I can run lights off of and hopefully add a 12V socket at some point. I bought the Tusk enduro lighting kit which is great, except I want to be able to charge it off of the bike as well. I've already floated the ground on the stator and I just wanted to verify if the wiring that I was planning on doing makes sense and will actually work. What are your thoughts and does anyone have a better idea?

pumpguy · Post by **pumpguy** » 04:14 pm Feb 20 2017

Don't have answers, only questions.

What rectifier do you plan on using? Some I've seen have 5 wires. What about a horn? Did one come with your kit? From my experience, while 12V AC horns are available, their performance can't compare with DC horns. Also, there are regulator/rectifiers available, combining both functions in one unit.

For answers, hopefully member Jaguar will chime in. He's an electronics tech and frequently posts answers to questions like yours. He has his own website, so you may be able to contact him direct.

rowyco · Post by **rowyco** » 05:13 pm Feb 20 2017

I have a 4 pin bridge rectifier that can handle up to 400 volts. I was just going to wire it in line after the regulator. I believe that is the correct way to do it. I could go with a combined regulator/rectifier, but i figured since I already have the stock regulator and bridge rectifier, I would just use them. Horn is already part of the DC circuit. I excluded all the blinkers and brake switches because the charging of the battery is really the only part that I'm concerned about.

Post by **bufftester** » 06:33 pm Feb 21 2017

That will work, though I'd recommend an all in one regulator/rectifier similar to the Baja Designs item as the stock regulator is not that robust. The main thing to remember is that all your grounds have to go to the battery and not the frame now that you've floated the ground at the stator.

rowyco · Post by **rowyco** » 10:56 am Feb 22 2017

Thanks Buff. I was thinking more about it last night and I think I'm going to go to an aftermarket regulator rectifier. Just seems to make more sense to do it right. Appreciate the input.

Any input from people who have already done this? I just want to make sure I'm going about it the correct way.

pumpguy · Post by **pumpguy** » 05:03 pm Feb 22 2017

I took a different (cheaper) approach, upgrading my lighting coil to 85 watts and staying with AC. A high and low beam incandescent headlight came with the bike so I added the handlebar switches, a dual filament tail light, front and rear brake light switches and a rechargeable battery operated DC horn. Only hassle is needing to recharge the horn battery every so often.

My state requires an electrically operated horn, but no turn signals are required for bikes.

rowyco · Post by **rowyco** » 02:20 pm Mar 01 2017

Good news, I ended up buying the trailtech regulator/rectifier and wiring just like I had in my diagram. Everything seems to work as I want it to. I just have to double check that the battery is charging during riding. Hopefully this is beneficial to any others that might need the info.

Post by **bufftester** » 05:32 pm Mar 01 2017

Congrats on getting it wired up and working. Keep in mind that the stock stator is quite weak so your battery will charge better if you can run it with the lights off and only use the lights when required. A battery tender for the non-riding times is a good investment as well. Curious, what battery did you use and how did you mount it? Pics would be helpful for others and this is a pretty regularly asked about mod. Thanks again.

rowyco · Post by **rowyco** » 07:28 pm Mar 01 2017

I'll try to get some pictures up soon. I also wanted to add that I rewound the stator, so I am well above stock wattage.

kashola · Post by **kashola** » 08:06 am Mar 02 2017

May want to consider adding a relay for the headlight rather than running power directly through the switch. It usually makes the light a little brighter and helps eliminate draw from corrosion.

pumpguy · Post by **pumpguy** » 06:53 pm Mar 02 2017

Interesting suggestion. Can you suggest a brand or supplier of appropriate relay, and how it should be wired?

Post by **bufftester** » 08:29 pm Mar 02 2017

You could use any automotive dual throw relay. IMO the added complexity and parts count, as well as the maybe meager increase in light output, isn't necessary as the Tusk light switch is purpose designed to do exactly what is shown in the diagram in the first post. Wiring would be:

Apologies Rowyco for vandalizing your wire diagram

rowyco · Post by **rowyco** » 10:22 am Mar 03 2017

So, my understanding of this is I'd be taking away my low beam and replace the high beam with low and high on at the same time?

kashola · Post by **kashola** » 11:29 am Mar 03 2017

While I agree there's a little added complexity, the addition of one part and a little extra wire would be justifiable to me. I'm sure the switch does a fine job initially but corrosion seems to creep in everywhere. There's a reason most modern vehicles have gone to a headlight relay. If nothing else, it may keep you from having issues down the road. On the flip side, it's just as likely to fail as any other component. I second bufftester's suggestion of a battery tender. Always a good investment. Looking forward to the pics and congrats.

Post by **bufftester** » 06:56 pm Mar 03 2017

rowyco wrote:So, my understanding of this is I'd be taking away my low beam and replace the high beam with low and high on at the same time?

No. In this configuration low beam would be on when the switch is not energized (normally closed relay contact) and high beam would be on when switch is energized (normally open relay contact)

Having not seen an actual Tusk switch assembly your concern about corrosion may be very deserved. Some of those plastic assemblies don't do a good job keeping corrosion out. Of course you would need to seal the relay and all its connections for the same reason. In the end as long as you can ride, doesn't really matter how you get there.

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