I'm making progress on the new top end for my 2001 KDX200 (new piston and rings).
Now I'm wondering how I should break it in once I'm done.
Do you guys have any suggestions?
new top end break in process
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- Supporting Member I
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Re: new top end break in process
Kawasaki say take it easy, others say ride it like ya stole it.
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Re: new top end break in process
Ride it gently for about 10 minutes then shut it down and let it cool right off. Re torque the barrel and head studs, then ride it like normal.
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- Supporting Member II
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new top end break in process
I let it warm up for about 5 minutes, shut it off and let it fool down, recheck the head,make sure there's no air or water leaks and you're good to go!
97-220 with a PC pipe. 2015- RB carb and head mod
- IDRIDR
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Re: new top end break in process
Here's one point of view: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
2003 KDX 220. RB Carb & Head Mods. Desert pipe. She's a runner!
2006 KLX 250 w/351 big bore. A well-sorted dual sporter.
2006 KLR 650. Mostly stock.
2014 Suzuki DL1000.
2006 KLX 250 w/351 big bore. A well-sorted dual sporter.
2006 KLR 650. Mostly stock.
2014 Suzuki DL1000.
- offshoretitan
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Re: new top end break in process
I totally agree with the 'short warm up, re-torque, ride the hell out of it' theory. Put a new piston, RB carb and head mods, Vforce 3 reeds, and a few other goodies on a low hour 2004 KDX220 two years ago. It doesn't get ridden a lot but when used it rips and hasn't demonstrated a moment's problem. Rode today south of Nashville for several hours and it was awesome. 71 degrees here today on Feb 19th. That's pretty sweet! We had a ride that included several stream crossings, hill climbs, mud, open fields, rocky trails, just everything you could wish for. Shot Sporting Clays at Nashville Gun Club late this afternoon and now grilling some red meat and drinking Scotch - perfect day!
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Re: new top end break in process
Let it warm up them run it hard and vary RPM, no coasting or idling (except for warm up). Rings will only seat with a load on them. Idling, free revving, coasting and putting around are what you don't want to do. Not saying to have it redlined riding it like you stole it but get on the gas and go hard through the gears and repeat.
2000 Kawasaki KDX220R
1996 Kawasaki KDX200
1996 Kawasaki KDX200
- bufftester
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Re: new top end break in process
+1 on the placing a load, though I would say run it somewhere between hard and easy. I usually warm it up a couple minutes, then take it on about a 30 minute ride that includes some moderate climbs and fast trails. Run it through the gears and vary the rpms. Then like everyone else I let it cool, recheck torques and look for leaks, and then ride normally.javjacob wrote:Let it warm up them run it hard and vary RPM, no coasting or idling (except for warm up). Rings will only seat with a load on them. Idling, free revving, coasting and putting around are what you don't want to do. Not saying to have it redlined riding it like you stole it but get on the gas and go hard through the gears and repeat.
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Re: new top end break in process
I just did this. Warmed it up until the rads were getting warm, then took it out and ran it medium hard. Rings seated well in about 30 seconds.
Pulls power wheelies in 3rd now. 92 dx200, FmF pipe, stock silencer, ported cylinder, rad valve.
"Fun Wheel Drive"
Pulls power wheelies in 3rd now. 92 dx200, FmF pipe, stock silencer, ported cylinder, rad valve.
"Fun Wheel Drive"