Restore

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Restore

Postby MaverickAus » 11:39 pm Feb 04 2017

JL4049 wrote:Mine is the same model, the Aus ones are similar to the US 'H' models however on the Kawasaki parts fiches are listed as 'J' model. They are able to be street registered but mechanically are the same as an H model, wiring is almost as for the SR model with the exception of the low oil light as there is no oil tank.
Lighting circuits are DC and voltage is regulated. Just noticed your headlight is a different shape to mine, maybe off an earlier model?


Thanks for the info, I really don't know I was given that stuff with the bike. I do have another headlight unit which I assume is off a KDX or an earlier KLX, I had it on my KLX for a while to save weight.

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Wow that was a while ago, I just noticed my old Nokia 3310 or 3315 on my desk.
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Re: Restore

Postby MaverickAus » 11:58 pm Feb 04 2017

Anyone tried a Works Connection bash plate? http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/13 ... sizeid=401 I like the mounting system.
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Restore

Postby MaverickAus » 02:19 am Feb 06 2017

Did a bit more today got all the wiring off not much left. The nylon chain guide fell apart when I took it off Kawasaki wants almost $60 for just the 1. :oops: I'm looking at a Moose Racing replacement.
I am having trouble with the swingarm and triples and the reed valve is stuck pretty well. Ducked out and bought a plastic mallet to try to free the reeds.
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Restore

Postby MaverickAus » 04:21 am Feb 07 2017

Well it's stripped completely except for the headstem ball races and the bellcrank which like the swingarm bolt is being stubborn, unlike the swingarm bolt I can't get anything in there to hit it with. Hopefully soaking overnight in WD-40 helps.

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Any suggestions welcome :prayer:
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Re: Restore

Postby Tyl3r » 08:09 am Feb 07 2017

Do you have a porta-power? You may be able to put a head up against the side of the frame and push the bolt thru. I'm guessing your bearing race seized to the bolt. Heating and cooling the bolt may help. I'd try to use a better pentrant than WD-40 too, like PD Blaster or Aerokroil

If all else fails, may be able to get a saw-zaw blade in there to cut the bolt and pull it all apart, then press everything out and replace the bolt.
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Re: Restore

Postby MaverickAus » 01:14 pm Feb 07 2017

Thanks for the suggestions
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Re: Restore

Postby Jason » 02:32 pm Feb 07 2017

Penetrating oil and heat cycles. Maybe you can get lucky.

I have done this piece before. The bolt was seized to the sleeve. YOU WILL NOT GET A SAWZALL IN BETWEEN THE FRAME AND LINKAGE PIECE! Repeat. You WILL NOT.

I ended up having to cut up the linkage piece to get to the bolt / sleeve to cut them in two. WHAT A NIGHTMARE!! It was February of 2009. Eight years, and I still dread it!! :rolleyes: :shock: :snooty:
Thank you, Julien D for all your hard work!

PLEASE! Do not "dip" PWK Keihin carbs in Berryman's to clean them! It will damage the internal o-ring (jet block gasket).
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Re: Restore

Postby MaverickAus » 05:01 pm Feb 07 2017

Hopefully mine won't be that bad
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Re: Restore

Postby MaverickAus » 01:06 am Feb 08 2017

Finally got everything off the bolt finally came out with a few good belts with a chisel I bought to get the headstem bearings out.

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Re: Restore

Postby Jason » 01:43 am Feb 08 2017

WHEW! CONGRATULATIONS! :supz: :bravo: :partyman:
Thank you, Julien D for all your hard work!

PLEASE! Do not "dip" PWK Keihin carbs in Berryman's to clean them! It will damage the internal o-ring (jet block gasket).
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Re: Restore

Postby MaverickAus » 04:10 am Feb 08 2017

Thank you
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Postby Willbilly » 09:23 am Feb 08 2017

MaverickAus wrote:
JL4049 wrote:Mine is the same model, the Aus ones are similar to the US 'H' models however on the Kawasaki parts fiches are listed as 'J' model. They are able to be street registered but mechanically are the same as an H model, wiring is almost as for the SR model with the exception of the low oil light as there is no oil tank.
Lighting circuits are DC and voltage is regulated. Just noticed your headlight is a different shape to mine, maybe off an earlier model?


Thanks for the info, I really don't know I was given that stuff with the bike. I do have another headlight unit which I assume is off a KDX or an earlier KLX, I had it on my KLX for a while to save weight.

Image

Image

Wow that was a while ago, I just noticed my old Nokia 3310 or 3315 on my desk.


the graphics on that number plate are awesome!
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Postby MaverickAus » 01:56 am Feb 09 2017

Had a chat with a paint guy at a local trade supply shop, he reckons Valspar TB-540 for the paint he can mix it any colour. I was tossing up green or black :hmm:
On one hand the green is Kawasaki and the OEM colour, on the other hand gloss black looks great and will be easier to touch up. Also seeing as the frame is being painted I might as well do the swingarm the same colour instead of paying out extra money for another colour. I don't think it would look good with green frame and swingarm, however black? :hmm:
Decisions decisions.
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Restore

Postby Jason » 02:17 am Feb 09 2017

Willbilly wrote:the graphics on that number plate are awesome!


YEAH THEY ARE! :bravo: :partyman:

I am in the anti-black crowd.

Green frame, silver swing arm, as nature intended it to be. :razz:
Thank you, Julien D for all your hard work!

PLEASE! Do not "dip" PWK Keihin carbs in Berryman's to clean them! It will damage the internal o-ring (jet block gasket).
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Re: Restore

Postby MaverickAus » 04:20 am Feb 09 2017

Anyone any good at photoshop? :lol:
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Re: Restore

Postby Tyl3r » 08:46 am Feb 09 2017

Congrats on the bolt extraction!

lol green or silver frames do look nice on the KDX's and help keep that factory look... I have to agree

That being said, I'm all about the black frames! I did my hybrid frame and swingarm black and love how they came out.

Just a thought...about how much do you expect to have invested in painting the frame and swingarm? Why not have it powder coated? It would hold up muuuccchhh better. Should cost about $300 or less to have both parts done too (that's what we charge at least).
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Re: Restore

Postby MaverickAus » 03:46 pm Feb 09 2017

I was thinking about powder but I figured paint is easier and cheaper to fix if it gets damaged. Also I've read that powder can be difficult to get into some of the corners? Got any photos of yours with the black frame?
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Re: Restore

Postby Tyl3r » 03:58 pm Feb 09 2017

If you take it to someone that knows what they are doing and they aren't using a cheapo gun, should have no problems getting into tight spots (I didn't miss any spots on mine).

All striped down:
Image

Powdered gloss black:
Image

Image

Image


My thought on the touch-up is, paint or powder, you can hit it with some gloss black paint either way if you mess it up. The powder just holds up soo much better. For example, when I was carrying the powder coated rims into my garage, my buddy bumped into me as I was coming thru the door and I smacked the two rims together and then banged them off the wall... after closely inspecting them, it didn't do any damage (pretty surprising!). Also, when we put a painted part into the blast cabinet, the media will take it right off, down to bare metal. When we put a powdered part in there, no matter how long you hold the gun over it, it won't go down to bare metal. Just wants to dull it. Its some super durable stuff!
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Re: Restore

Postby MaverickAus » 05:56 pm Feb 09 2017

Thanks for the photos and info, I'll look into the powder coating
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Restore

Postby MaverickAus » 09:14 pm Feb 09 2017

So I think I'm gunna paint in the original colours
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