I'm working on a top end rebuild on my 2001 KDX200.
Today, I removed the cylinder, but had a heck of a time getting one of the cylinder nuts off.
It's the one on the right front (next to the KIPS actuator shaft).
I have the Motion Pro 12/14mm wrench, but when I tried to loosen on the nut, it kept hitting the actuator shaft and the coolant hose connection.
I ended up using a regular 12mm wrench because the box end is slightly offset and that gave me just enough room to loosen it.
My worry right now is how to get that nut torqued when I do the reassembly, since I can't seem to use the Motion Pro wrench on it.
Do you guys happen to have any suggestions?
torqueing cylinder nuts
- bufftester
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Re: torqueing cylinder nuts
Normally you remove the KIPS shaft and coolant hose, makes getting in there easier. A 12mm crows foot (do the math to get the torque value right) works perfectly. You may even be able to use the crows foot with the KIPS shaft on.
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Re: torqueing cylinder nuts
You have the Motion Pro torque adapter wrench?
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Re: torqueing cylinder nuts
Thank you, bufftester.bufftester wrote:Normally you remove the KIPS shaft and coolant hose, makes getting in there easier. A 12mm crows foot (do the math to get the torque value right) works perfectly. You may even be able to use the crows foot with the KIPS shaft on.
I've removed the coolant hose. Do I remove the entire shaft and not just the nut on the end?
If so, what are the steps to remove the shaft?
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Re: torqueing cylinder nuts
Yes, that's the wrench I have.Jason wrote:You have the Motion Pro torque adapter wrench?
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Re: torqueing cylinder nuts
Ok. Thanks.
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- bufftester
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Re: torqueing cylinder nuts
Let me clarify, you don't have to take the KIPS shaft out, just remove the entire right side engine cover, which the KIPS shaft is attached to. Then you have access to that bolt easily. Other wise, you may be able to put a short socket on it with a swivel adapter. You don't need a crows foot if you already have the motion pro tool. Just remember to do the math, the torque setting on your wrench will be lower when using the adapter than without.
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Re: torqueing cylinder nuts
Thanks bufftester for clarifying. That makes sense. I'm hoping I can get it without pulling the side cover.bufftester wrote:Let me clarify, you don't have to take the KIPS shaft out, just remove the entire right side engine cover, which the KIPS shaft is attached to. Then you have access to that bolt easily. Other wise, you may be able to put a short socket on it with a swivel adapter. You don't need a crows foot if you already have the motion pro tool. Just remember to do the math, the torque setting on your wrench will be lower when using the adapter than without.