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Ryan
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Bad News

Post by Ryan »

Well, i got some bad news, i have been trying to get the bottom bolt that holds in the cartridges off of the forks. As most of you know you need a tool for this. Well, i ordered one from Ronayers.com and on the 23rd they sent me an email(which i never got) saying that this tool is discontinued. So i brought the fork that need the bolt to be tightened to the shop(very upset that i had to spend money). Anyway, i called them about 5 hours later to see if it was done. (it should have taken 30 seconds to tighten the bolt. They said someone had crossthreaded the bolt and i would need a new cylinder vavle assembly. this is really expensive, and now i dont know what to do!!!!!!! :sad:
2001 kdx220

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Post by Ryan »

to get what i need is about $230.
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Post by m0rie »

Time for KX forks.
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Post by Ryan »

thats what i want to hear!!!!!! :grin:

to bad its even more, if no other sugestions arise then i think i will save for a few months and do the switch. Im sure it has been asked before but what is the price range usally for the front end conversion.
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Post by NM_KDX200 »

I know every one says "KX forks", but you oughta be able to snag someone's old KDX forks for a LOT less $$$. I remember when I was < 18 years old. Money was TIGHT.
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Post by skipro3 »

How do you know the shop didn't do the damage to your forks? If they were stripped before, I would think you would have noticed something.
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Post by Ryan »

thats what i also think might have happend. I have never taken them apart, and when i losend the bolt you think i would have noticed. Who knows maybe they will have to buy me all new parts!!!! :grin:
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Post by Ryan »

how do i go about making them think they need to buy me new parts??
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Post by skipro3 »

Find another shop that you can trust, tell them your whole story and see what they think. Then, if they also think the first shop damaged your parts, contact the BAR (Bureau of Automotive Repair) and file a complaint.
Maybe go back to the shop first and just threaten to go to the BAR. They will probably at least offer to sell you the part for their cost and free labor to replace. If not, then just go ahead and contact BAR.
good luck!!!
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Post by Ryan »

well their is the problem, i have two dealers within 30 minutes of me, the rest are at least 45 minutes. My dad doesnt like to go more than 30. I have a ktm dealer which i use to go to, but they are so expensive you would not believe. Lets just say they charge about a half a week pay check an hour. The other dealer i really like, parts are much less expensive and labor is cheaper, they are also really nice people. So i dont want to threaten them but if it will save me $200 i may.
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Post by skipro3 »

You don't need to go to a motorcycle dealer. About any mechanic could help determine what caused the damage as well as how and where it occured. Check an independant mecanic or go to a machine shop. As a matter of fact, I've had better luck with machine shops than most other places

In regards to friendly places that screw up your parts, my local shop screwed up my stem when converting over to KX forks. A stem is not a part you can buy. It comes as an assembly with the lower triple clamp. I pointed out what he did to the stem and and mentioned the BAR. He offered me $330 as that is what the local Kawasaki shop said the replacement whould be. I found one on eBay for under $20 and returned the rest. We still do business together because we both were honest with each other.
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Post by Ryan »

well im going to talk to him tommorow, i will let you know how it goes.
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Post by GS »

Could a machine shop repair this damage? I am not familiar with what was crossthreaded, but someone here must have a better idea. Good machinists are very good people to know! :wink:
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Post by KDX220PHIL »

Do you have the parts Ryan? Post a clear picture of the damaged threads.
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Post by canyncarvr »

Sorry, but....no.

You can crossthread a bolt into a nut...the bolt is now junk and the nut is good?

Uh...no. Well, unless the bolt is aluminum and the nut is hardened steel. That's not the case here.

For starters....I've mentioned using an impact to get the base valve out.

YOU DON'T USE AN IMPACT TO START THE THREADS!!!

That is common sense. The base valve is threaded into the cartridge BY HAND..at LEAST for a handful of turns.

A good machine shop should be able to chase the threads of both with a tap and dye. You know what 'chase' means?

IF...the base valve was indeed crossthreaded into the cartridge...you have more than base valve problems!

If the idea is, 'A PROFESSIONAL shop wouldn't do that!!', well...that idea is just plain WRONG!

Old hat...but I've had 'PROFESSIONAL' shops/mechanics/experts screw up all sorts of most everything I own. That's why I do my own wrenching. Practically NO ONE else is capable!!

No, I'm not kidding or stretching the facts of the matter.

You have taken exception to my threads being too long. I suggest you read 'em.

Your starting post says:

'i have been trying to get the bottom bolt that holds in the cartridges off of the forks.'

But then you say:

'So i brought the fork that need the bolt to be tightened..'

Emphasis mine in both quotes.


Sorry. Leave 'interpretation' to someone speaking a foreign language. What you said makes no sense!!. You said OPPOSITE things.

IF...you took it to the shop to get the base valve OUT...then it now being crossthreaded and by your doing is VERY unlikely. Possible? Yep. I doubt it, though.


BTW...you can buy a stem from Fredette. I did, anyway.

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Post by Ryan »

i was gonna take the bolt out, then i decided not to bother, since it was half way out i figured it would jsut got back in but it would not go back in because i needed the tool which is the one you put in the inner fork tube. I tried to order the tool from Ronayers.com but they sent me an email that they could not get it. So i figured a shop would have the tool. I went to the shop to have them fix it. One guy said that the bolt was cross threaded but when i talked to the mechanic i found out it wasnt. He just needs to order the tool because he tired to use an impact wrench but because the bolt was half way out it didnt work, so they are gonna call me back when they get the tool. or if they get it.
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Post by Ryan »

and cc i forgot to say i dont have an impact wrench... usefull im sure but to much money for me right now.
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Post by KDX220PHIL »

Well Ryan, if they do not get/have the tool, make one. This one is easier than the fork oil tool. It will cost you peanuts and best of all give you the satisfaction of a job done properly and a little more experience to put under your belt.
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Post by canyncarvr »

Summary:

You were told it was crossthreaded, but it is not (that they know of).

The 'shop' you took the fork to does not have a cartridge holder...and doesn't know how to make one?

...that's not much of a 'shop'.

If the bolt is 1/2 out, it should come out by hand..with very slight pressure on the cartridge from the 'inside'.

Since it does NOT do that, there is likely some problem with the threads that make it appear 'stuck'.

Possibility: You don't have an impact to 'hit-it-fast' and you don't have a cartridge tool to deal with what happens when you hand wrench it. Part way through the unthread process excessive pressure is used..pushing down on the base valve. Considering the fine thread of the assembly, you can exert enough pressure to destroy the threads.

You're not out of the woods, yet. I understand where the 'it's crossthreaded' opine came from. That may indeed be the case.

Good luck! Hope that's not true in your case!!

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Post by Old_Man_Time »

You can get a set of forks off of E-Bay for a lot cheaper than all this trouble is going to cost you.
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