Kdx220r lots of white smoke?

Aaronmact · Post by **Aaronmact** » 01:07 am Sep 11 2016

[album]So I picked up a kdx220r for 600 bucks on craigs list, after cleaning out the fuel pet cock and a few hundred kicks I could finally get it to run. Well once I finally got it to idle enough for a test drive I had tons of white smoke coming out the back. So in my head I figured a gasket had gone. So I went ahead and ordered a weisco piston/upper gasket set. When I pluck the head my piston was shattered in half. But the gaskets were good, drained the oil. No oil shavings and not milky just dirty and dark, so measured the ring gaps, did the new gaskets, pistons and all, put the whole bike back together, started first kick. New oil, new fuel and oil mix 32:1 kawasaki oil , new coolant, cleaned carbs, the whole shabang. But even now there's still white smoke coming out the back. I know 2 strokes smoke, but this seems a little much. Suggestions? I've read rejetting(which I wanna avoid) and a crankcase seal?

Post by **KDXGarage** » 02:07 am Sep 11 2016

water pump seal or leaking coolant into top end somehow.

It cranked and ran with half a piston floating around??

doakley · Post by **doakley** » 09:57 am Sep 11 2016

It cranked and ran with half a piston floating around??

Man, you just can't kill those green bikes, can you?

Aaronmact · Post by **Aaronmact** » 09:57 am Sep 11 2016

Yeah surprisingly. I mean it'd always take tons of kicks to get it going and I could never keep the carb happy but it would run.

And I didn't see any traces of water entering the cylinder or of a blown gasket when I took apart the top end. The water pump gasket, is there one further in the motor you're talking about? Cause the one o replaced was the outer cover for it

Post by **KDXGarage** » 11:57 am Sep 11 2016

Any chance you took a picture when you took the engine apart?

Look at the parts diagrams on kawasaki.com, rockymountainmc.com, ronayers.com, etc. on the right side of the engine

Aaronmact · Post by **Aaronmact** » 01:17 pm Sep 11 2016

I took a picture of the piston. Its not totally cracked in half but a huge chunk missing. I'm not sure how to upped the photo

canamfan · Post by **canamfan** » 05:58 pm Sep 11 2016

Sounds like you might be sucking in gear oil from the trans side crank seal. Do a leak down test.

ohgood · Post by **ohgood** » 07:03 pm Sep 11 2016

white smoke is gear oil, usually. steam from the water pump just kind of disappears. gear oil lingers.

it's not bad to change it but you gotta split the case

Aaronmact · Post by **Aaronmact** » 07:10 pm Sep 11 2016

Yuckk. I was hoping to avoid that as I just put the whole bike back together yesterday

I'll ride it around a few times and see if things get better. Is the part I need to change on the right or left side?

ohgood · Post by **ohgood** » 08:19 pm Sep 11 2016

the left side seal leaks air SVD leans it the mixture terribly. the right side leaks transmission fluid, which also leans it the mixture, but at the same time produces l lots of smoke... if you replace one seal, replace them both, and check your main bearings for play

Aaronmact · Post by **Aaronmact** » 08:43 pm Sep 11 2016

Random off topic question, do you all know which crankcases/years are interchangeable?

Post by **Tyl3r** » 07:53 am Sep 12 2016

Man, I can't believe it either. Sounds to me like the stock piston was giving away? Or was it an aftermarket piston in there?

all 220 parts should be interchangeable from year to year.

Post by **Julien D** » 11:29 am Sep 12 2016

when the piston let go you should have split it anyway. Pretty much impossible to get all the metal bits out of the crank and rod bearings.

Aaronmact · Post by **Aaronmact** » 02:33 pm Sep 12 2016

It appeared to be the stock piston, I read the horror stories about them shattering so I figured I might as well replace it when I do gaskets.

And again I didnt know the piston broke until I cracked it open and at that time i only had the bits to replace the upper end.

Aaronmact · Post by **Aaronmact** » 02:46 pm Sep 12 2016

Maybe my discription was too drastic, but hopefully this works [img][IMG]http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e118/Aaronmact13/Mobile%20Uploads/Snapchat-4498732834662234963_zpsvlaqosnr.jpg[/img] [/img]

david · Post by **david** » 03:40 pm Sep 12 2016

My money is on a broken case, sucking trans fluid and also causing the hard starting. Caused by the large pieces of piston skirt being forced through the case by the rotating crank. There is very little clearance in there, under the crank webs.

Post by **Julien D** » 07:52 pm Sep 12 2016

That's certainly a possibility. That's a lot of metal to be banging around down in the bottom end. What did you do to try and fish it all out if you didn't split it?

Aaronmact · Post by **Aaronmact** » 08:01 pm Sep 12 2016

Well to be honest not much, I rotated the crank checking for any shavings and again tried to check the oil and didn't see any. The bike has had 2 owners in broken stait's prior to me so I felt that it had already all been flushed out. But I'm guessing I'm very wrong in that assumption haha.

Aaronmact · Post by **Aaronmact** » 08:04 pm Sep 12 2016

Side not I forgot to mention, the previous owner put a small hole in the front of the case in a "hill climb" aND it had been jb welded shut, and since new cases for the 220 are almost 600 bucks I just added mor jb weld to see if it would work, still absolutely no leaks or anything so again I assumed it was fine. But I'm guessing that could be the cause of my "leak"? Soo if anyone has any cheap 220 cases for sale I might be interested

Post by **Julien D** » 09:50 pm Sep 12 2016

In a 2 stroke, the metal from a busted top end can only reach the gear oil via a cracked case or totally hosed crank seal. You wouldn't see piton bits in the oil short of that.

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