KDXRIDER.NET

Could use some more help.

1. Does it matter which side of the rings is up on a Wiseco 220 piston replace? According to the directions it shouldn't matter but I recall reading about this one time. I put them on the piston with the writing facing up.

2. How often do the piston rings needing grinding from a brand new kit. I don't have the proper gap measuring tool at home as I left it at work. "Looks" to be about the same as the old piston.

3. How the %#@* do you get that circlip in. The first one was hard enough with the piston removed from the rod. I can't even begin to think how hard it is going to be with the piston on the rod and all. Any Kawi Gods that need to be prayed to or anything?

4. Any particular spot where the gaps in the circlips should be facing. According to the manual, they just shouldn't be in the little "gap" in the piston. The first clip space is facing about the 5 o'clock position.

Old piston was in good shape with the exception of some carbon build-up on the top. Otherwise it looked good. Anything else to know about?

As always - thanks for the help.

Those circlips suck! I bought some Yamaha OEM ones for another bike that I replaced the piston with a Wiseco. They have little bends that you can squeze together with pliers to get the clips in the piston without scratching the piston.

Re: Clips

6 or 12 O' clock position.

Getting them in? What ever works best for you. I believe I had sore fingers for about a month. Which sucks since I have to type alot at work.

On the Wiseco clips I think I used some little bitty needlenose pliers.

seemed easy to put the clips on when i did it two days ago. i justed used a screwdriver

Uh-oh.

Mark W wrote:Could use some more help.

1. Does it matter which side of the rings is up on a Wiseco 220 piston replace? According to the directions it shouldn't matter but I recall reading about this one time. I put them on the piston with the writing facing up.

Numbers up.

Besides that, the pin in the pistion ring land make it pretty hard to get it (them) upside down.

;)

Mark W wrote: 2. How often do the piston rings needing grinding from a brand new kit. I don't have the proper gap measuring tool at home as I left it at work. "Looks" to be about the same as the old piston.

You don't grind them as you would a 'normal set of rings in a good 'ol V8. I spent HOURS grinding my Duster rings...

Another 'pin in the piston ring land' thing. Note the ring ends are not square. While they are certainly something that can be modified, they generally are not.

Note that the same rings are used regardless of what piston you use (referring to the Pro-X multiple alpha designations). Yes, I realize you are using a Wiseco on a 220. The point is, the ring gap isn't something you generally have to increase by grinding on the ring ends.

I say 'not generally' only to except the one case in history it ever happened. Wouldn't ever say 'never' 'cuz some machinist type would chip in with, 'I needed a couple extra thou, so I welded up my new rings, then mahcined them to fit perfectly....'

Mark W wrote: 3. How the %#@* do you get that circlip in. The first one was hard enough with the piston removed from the rod. I can't even begin to think how hard it is going to be with the piston on the rod and all. Any Kawi Gods that need to be prayed to or anything?

They're tough..and the Wisecos are tougher by all reports (I've not used a Wiseco pin). My 'method' is a bit hard to 'splain word-wise. Holding the clip 'off-plane' (at an angle to a cross-section slice of the hole) and at the position you want (twelve-o'clock in this case), put your left thumb (I'm right handed) over the left side of the hole. Using your right thumb compress the clip by pushing 'up' from about the 4-o'clock position while pushing 'in' with your left thumb.

With any luck you will be able to push the left edge into the slot first, followed by the right.

If you get the left side started with the right side in the hole but not IN the slot, you can push that further in with a wooden dowel or nylon tool. Yeah, a screwdriver will work, but avoiding scratches and dings is a good thing.

Mark W wrote: 4. Any particular spot where the gaps in the circlips should be facing. According to the manual, they just shouldn't be in the little "gap" in the piston. The first clip space is facing about the 5 o'clock position.

Lots of argument of what is 'thee way'. What Inda said is generally considered 'correct'.

Mark W wrote: Old piston was in good shape with the exception of some carbon build-up on the top. Otherwise it looked good. Anything else to know about?

Sure! Seagram's Apple twist is FAR superiour to Burnette's. Schweppe's is the best tonic...all sorts of things need to be known.

As far as pistons you mean?

Mark W wrote: As always - thanks for the help.

You bet!

Hopefully, some of it might even be right!

Most pistons will have some carbon on the top. If you're jetted right and use a decent oil, it'll be nice and clean.

Found that the second circlip was far easier than the first one. I think the wrist pin being in there didn't allow for the circlip to move much. Good thing as I wasn't looking forward to it after putting in the first circlip.

Got everything back together with the exception of the stuff I'm expecting back from Ron sometime in the next week or so. The Boyesen reeds were interesting. Kept trying to figure out how I was going to use the stock reed stops wiith the new ones that were quite different than the stock ones. Finally looked at the pictures that came with the reeds and figured out that the stock ones go bye bye. Have to remember - read the directions first.

Here's a new one. Put the new desert pipe on the bike and was all set for a wrestlin' match after hearing others experiences. Had some trouble at first as I was trying to not have to loosen or remove the silencer (lazy). After loosening up the silencer bolts the whole thing went together easy sneezy japanesey. What a surprise.

Finished up the whole thing just as I watched Bubba take a spill in the first corner of the main. Tough break but what a come back ride. I think this season will be good entertainment.

Some more greasin to do on my bike and then some work on my sons KX65 and we'll be set for next year. Get to repack my first silencer ever on his bike.

Good deal!

re: FmF fit

Obviously you are the blessed one.........

..might as well take advantage of it!

;)

hey what do you mean by reed stops. dont the reeds just snap in like the old ones, whats different?

Those big spoon looking things are reed stops in the OEM cage. They come off (are not used) with Boyesen aftermarket reeds...power OR carbon.

The only reed that SNAPS in is a VF3. The OEM reeds are held in with screws (like most other reed systems).