KIPS Reassembly

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Mark W
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KIPS Reassembly

Post by Mark W »

Got the KIPS apart this afternoon and it wasn't in too bad of shape. Very slight crap on it but nothing much at all - I was surprised. Must be that MX2T or what ever it is called nowadays huh?

Everyting is fairly straightforward with one exception. I am re-installing the subvalve and what is expected isn't clear. I think I know what they mean but would like to double check here.

According to the picture in the manual, is says to align the notched teeth with the groove on the exhaust valve. I can't find any notched teeth on the sub valve but did find two teeth that are slightly shorter in length. Would these be the notched teeth? It also says to align the groove in the exhaust valve with the teeth on notched teeth on the sub valve. If you already aligned the main shaft pinions with each groove on the exhaust valve rods, should the groove on the other end automatically align with the sub valve notched teeth?

Thanks for the help.

Mark
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Indawoods
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Post by Indawoods »

Pics? :?
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Post by Indawoods »

I think your talking about a round indention on the gear lining up with a groove across the rod... but I'm not sure without a pic....
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I think I got it

Post by Mark W »

The sub assembly valves are the thingies that go in from the top of the cylinder. They have a big aluminum "bushing" (wrong word but you get the idea) that goes in around the shaft.

Hard to explain but I used the words right out of the manual.

If you have the 95-2004 KDX200 manual, what I was trying to line up is on page Top End 4-13. It is the first picture at the top. They show hash marks as notched teeth and I think this are the shorter teeth.

I think I got it figured out, the two gear teeth that they say are notched I would call "shorter" than the others teeth. I think this is notched to the manual writers. At least this is how I lined everything up.

Make sense now? Pictures wouldn't be able to show what I'm trying (and failing) to describe.

Thanks Inda -

Mark
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Post by Indawoods »

Well... I think you are over thinking it.

If you have the fronts lined up the way it should be (as per pic 2).... then the rear would be just getting them (the exhaust ports) lined out by lifting and turning then dropping them back in.

This can be done by feel or sight through the exhaust pipe port (as per section 1-9).

Does that make sense?
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OK

Post by Mark W »

What, me over thinking something :roll: I resemble that remake.

I think I got it right. When you say you look in the exhaust port you can tell its right is what I couldn't see earlier. I'll take another look at tomorrow morning as I'm sitting at home waiting for some countertop guys to get some stuff done in my house.

When you lift those sub assembly shafts up and turn them, I understand this. Don't you have to make sure you line them up properly according to the manual ro do they only drop in one way.

Finally, what's the little ball bearing and spring do. Looks like an after thought by Kawasaki to me. Can find info anywhere on this but did see a tip somewhere about removing this thing.

Mark
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Post by Indawoods »

Use a small flashlight.... I use my fingers since I know all about them! :wink:

The ports will lift far enough to rotate them anywhere you need them to be... once the head is installed, they can't go anywhere.....

The little ball and spring keep the KIPS from opening until it has enough force applied by the shaft (basically a way to pressure fit the assembly) ... instead of just flopping around.... Un...don't remove them. It's kinda like a bearing ride (reminds me of one anyway) They serve a purpose.....
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Got it

Post by Mark W »

OK, now I know I got it. Sure is easier when you understand how the thing works. I shined a light into the exhast port and saw exactly what you are talking about. When the gear is turned all the way counterclockwise, the valves are closed and when the gear is turned all the way clockwise, the subvalves are open.

Believe it or not, the notched gears on top actually do line up - amazing.

Head and carb are off to Ron today. I'm having him install the CEK at first and having him ship me a DEK just in case. Can't wait until April. Anything else I should have Ron do other than mill the head a little, do the carb mod and install the finger adjustable airscrew?

Mark
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Post by m0rie »

Have him put allen head screws in the carb float bowl.
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Post by canyncarvr »

You were correct in the first place. Notched teeth is exactly what you described.

Also, correct in that the proof of the pudding is in the eating....you can tell (and you did) if it's right by looking at it.

re: Spring and detent ball.

Mr. Fredette removes it as part of his cylinder work. Removal of it does somewhat lessen the tension sticking it in the 'off' position. I've never done RPM checks to see exactly how much it matters, but physics says it HAS to matter some. Maybe one or two R's? :wink:

Yeah...allen heads and anti-seize!!

Ron does a lot more than mill the head...but leave the reconfig up to him..he'll fix it right up. You DID tell him what kind of fuel you were going to use...right?

re: 'once the head is installed, they can't go anywhere..... '

Wanna bet!? :shock:

Cheers!

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Yep -

Post by Mark W »

Wrote Ron a note and ssaid I still want to run on 92 octane pump gas.

I was reading the manual and according to it, there is no anti-seize compound on anything KIPS related. I thought this to be funny as the vibration down there is going to be extensive. Should I have used anti-seize on any of the nuts or bolts?

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Post by canyncarvr »

The 'allen head' comment was in conjoinder (I just made that word up) to m0rie's comment about fuel bowl screws.

If it's going on my bike, it's going to have anti-seize OR a thread lock on it. Period.

Specifically in regard to the KIPS? Any dissimilar metal contact is going to have SOMEthing on it (sez me)...spec'd or not.

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Post by Indawoods »

>|<>QBB<
canyncarvr wrote:re: 'once the head is installed, they can't go anywhere..... '

Wanna bet!? :shock:

Cheers!
Yeah CC... but you and the foreign market are different than us! :wink:
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Post by KDX220PHIL »

Thought I would revisit this post as I am having a similar problem.

My problem is when installing the advancer shaft lever ( the one with the nut and left hand thread), the manual explains to align the small hole of the lever with the notched tooth of the main shaft pinion.

I have looked all over this gear back and front, there is no notched tooth to be found like on the subvalves. There is a line marked on the main shaft, does anyone know if this serves the same purpose? If not does anyone know if the notched tooth on the front gear is aligned with the indent on the rear gear?

Thanks for any help.
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Ryan
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Post by Ryan »

you make it sound so confusing, i found there is only one way it can go in. I dont thing there is a wrong way to put it in. Or maybe we are talking about differnt parts. Could you give me a pic. I have the reassembly fresh in my mind so i may be able to help.
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Post by KDX220PHIL »

Here is a pic :

Image

I cannot not find a notched tooth on the front or back of this gear, there is however a grooved on the shaft behind the gear.
There are several ways this can fit, only one is right.

Manual section 4-8
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Post by Ryan »

let me see what i did with mine, i will show you a picture tommrow.
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Post by Indawoods »

I believe my gear has an indention, but then again... I'm special.... my mom and the bus driver told me so. :snooty:
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Post by KDX220PHIL »

I am gathering most KDx's have a notched tooth as explained in the top of section 4-8 of the manual, I don't think mine does , or at least I cannot find it.

Maybe the hole should be aligned with the indentation in the tooth of the rear most gear?
Last edited by KDX220PHIL on 11:02 pm Mar 04 2006, edited 1 time in total.
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Ryan
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Post by Ryan »

i will look right now
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