Rear Rotor

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Ryan
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Rear Rotor

Post by Ryan »

well, when i got my wheel back from the shop, they strongly suggested that i get a new rotor. I knew when i first got the bike that i would need one because it had not much like left when i got it. I wont be getting it now because i have to pay my parents for my car for a few weeks. I think i will have enough in about 2 months, unless i can find a cheap deal. Well, i was wondering what brand you guys recommend. Also should i get a soild rotor or slotted? I pretty much, race my freind most of the time, and go through mud maybe 1 out of every 10 times i ride. Any suggestions would be great. thanks
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Post by Indawoods »

I suggest....sell the Honda and finish your KDX up! :wink:
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Post by Ryan »

i got another easy question also, my bike came with a 49th sunstar sproket, i have a few questions, I think the stock is 47th so is the 49th the reason why my rubber block is like worn down to nothing, also would a 48th be much better without losing bottom end? thanks. And the sunstars are good sprokets right, since im on the subject is there an easy way to tell if my chain needs replacing? thanks for any info
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Post by kdxquebec »

If you want a cheap deal,you should get a TITAX rear rotor.I bought one 3 year ago for my 89 and it still look great. I think they were 49$.They look strange but they work well.

http://titax.com/data/X-style_brake_rotor_2.pdf

http://groups.msn.com/KDXRidersCommunit ... hotoID=550

edit...oh..I think Canycarvr have a titax rotor in his spare part box :lol:
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Post by m0rie »

Rockymountain used to have the Titax ones, they recently started selling the Tusk brand brake rotors. $49 and they are Stainless Steel unlike the Titax ones. I've got one on my 89 and it works great.
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Post by canyncarvr »

kdxq: You pay WAY too close attention to stuff.... :wink:

Yep. I gots a Titax (not stainless..they DO make a stainless) in my spare parts bin. I didn't use it 'cuz it was ugly!! :shock:

I got a Braking (yes, that is a brand name) rotor. Drilled (not slotted..not solid).

I'm sure you would be happy with a Titax....or Tusk. Even if it IS ugly. Heck...you own a HONDA 'fer crine out loud!! You're used to ugly! :wink:

re: 'is the 49th the reason why my rubber block is like worn down to nothing,..'

What rubber block? There's a rubber block somewheres? :hmm:

You're referring to the chain guide? You're referring to the chain slipper (around the swing arm by the CSS)?

For 1: Those 'wear' no matter what sprocket size you use..both of them.

And, for B: The chain guide block will wear quicker with a 49 than it will a 47.

re: Would a 48 be 'much better'....

'Much better' for what? More top speed...less bottom end pull. Enough that you would even notice? Likely not.

re: 'the sunstars are good sprokets right..'

They're OK. There are other brands that are better. They also cost more!

re: ' is there an easy way to tell if my chain needs replacing?'

Kind of.
the web wrote: NORMS AND REPLACEMENT CRITERIA
So, why not just swop out your chain on a basis of time or distance ? If you're riding in identical conditions, this may work ...but you may be in for a big surprise with all your cogs worn out prematurely ! Conditions affecting chain wear can vary dramatically from muddy MTB trails (where chains may last less than 500 km) to clean road conditions (where chains have lasted 10 000+ km). And don't imagine that your particular MTB or road condtions remain static - they won't - they vary with season, rain, and when you forget chain cleaning or lubing. Intuitively knowing accumulated chain wear isn't actually feasible ...but its easy enough to measure.

Norms when new : On new chains, the pitch for single links should be exactly 0.50" (ie link-pairs 1.00"). Thus 12 link-pairs on a new (or unstretched) chain, should measure exactly 12.00" = 304.8mm, but there are always manufacturing inaccuracies. On a range of brand new chains, I measured "stretch" to be in the range of -0.10% to +0.15% (measured using a long steel ruler over 48 link-pairs).

Replacement Criteria : For normal maintenance (chain-suck not an issue), chains should be replaced at about +0.5% overall "stretch". This +0.5% = 1/16" = 1.5mm over 12 link-pairs.

By +1.0% stretch (1/8" or 3.0mm over 12 link-pairs), chains will have done significant damage to both the chain-rings and rear sprockets. Then when you install a new (or low-stretch) chain, it will inevitably skip over the worn teeth on the rear sprockets during high-load pedalling ; this is very disconcerting and its impact loading will do further damage and will do it quickly.

If you have installed a new granny-ring or flipped the ring to use its unworn faces, for the purpose of alleviating chain-suck, then replace the chain preferably ; and definitely if its stretch is greater than +0.3%.

HOW TO MEASURE CHAIN-STRETCH
Conventional Method : For measuring chain "stretch" properly over 12 link-pairs (ie 24 links or 12") using a steel rule or tape measure, see Mike Tierney's website (which has clear explanatory photos).

An alternative is to measure over 48 link-pairs. Remove the chain from the bike which is easy if you use an SRAM type "power-link" or any other of these universal type links ; clean the chain to remove any dirt packed into its joints which could affect the measurement ; hang the chain up with a small weight at the bottom ; use a long steel rule to measure the total pin-to-pin distance (see Tierney's photos - but over 48 link-pairs). The +0.5% stretch will now be 1/4" or 6.1mm which can be measured more easily and accurately over the longer chain length.

Fast and Simple Method : Another very simple method I use to assess chain wear is to have three chains always hanging next to each other (full-length) from the same thin steel rod in my garage ; they only needed to be measured the first time. One chain is badly worn at +1.0% wear, the next is normally worn at +0.5% wear, and the nearest is brand new. As soon as I've removed my current chain from the bike (in a jiffy with its "power-link"), I hang it on the same rod - with an instant view of its "stretch". Typically, chains on most bikes have a few more than 100 single links (50 link-pairs) ; when a chain has stretched 0.5%, its lower end will be about half a link longer than the new chain - then put the new chain on the bike, and buy a replacement new chain.

Measuring Gauges : Park Tools (and others) make gauges for measuring chain stretch. However, I have experienced very inaccurate results using it, when compared directly with the more accurate methods mentioned above. I also consider that Park's recommendation of a +1.0% stretch allowance is far too great (although it is noted that this type of gauge often reads +1.0% when the real stretch is actually +0.5%).

I also repeated my investigation into "stretch" of brand new chains on the same chains indicated in "Norms when new", using a borrowed Park Tool. This showed "stretch" of +0.20% to +0.40% (using a method to interpret the Park reading). So the Park Tool is conservative, but unneccesarily and wastefully so if the +0.5% criterion is used for discarding chains. Park's own criterion of +1.0% gets around this to some degree but leaves a wrong understanding of the issue. There are fundamental geometric reasons why this device (and other generics based on the same idea) will over-measure, and the degree of over-measurement gets worse as the chain wears. I don't know if any generics have some way of mitigating the problem and providing more accurate measurements, but it would appear not.
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Note this is for bicycle chains. Owning a Honda...you're familiar with bicycle chains..........

This is for a 520 chain (what you have on your KDX)
some other website wrote: For 520, 525 or 530 chains. Measure the distance between the centers of two pins separated by 16 links of chain. For o-ring chains, if the distance is 10.098” (approx 10-3/32”) or more, replace the chain. For non o-ring chains, if the distance is 10.197” (approx 10-3/16”)or more, replace the chain.

A rube goldberg method? Pull the chain from the rear sprocket at the 3:00 o'clock position. If you can pull the chain further than 1/2 the pitch (5/8" in the case of a 5xx chain), the chain is likely worn out.

If you see 'windswept' teeth on your sprocket...the whole final drive was worn out some time ago.


...ask a lot of questions...get a lot of answers.


...sometimes! :wink:

This was fun!! :cool:

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Post by Ryan »

cc your replys are too long :shock: . I am refering to the rubber block in the chain guide i was wondering if it would wear less, if i got a 48 or would it not make a differnece. As far as finishing my kdx, there is really no point in getting everything right now cause i cant ride with the weather the way it is, im sure it is possible but i dont want to ride in 12 inches of snow.
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Post by KDX220PHIL »

>|<>QBB<
Ryan wrote:cc your replys are too long :shock: .
Thats the good thing about 'em. They are written in such a way that YOU can skip what you do not want to read or for people who want more details and do not want to post another question, can read on.
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Post by KDXer »

Love ya work Brad !!! :lol: :supz:
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Post by canyncarvr »

Skip? What? Less not there be no skippin' goin on!! ..well unless that's followed with an -ro3 :wink:

Ryan: I made the post long for a reason...for several, actually. Here are a couple.....

1. You asked numerous questions in the same thread, in the same post. See what happens when that happens? In this case, they all got answered. Not that you bothered reading the answers...but they're there. That you asked the same thing over again shows that you 'skipped' too much. :roll:

B. If you don't want to be bothered reading an answer, why bother answering the questions? **See #1**

No surprises there.

3. You would have prefered, 'Use the search function. Heard of Google?'



How about this....in order:

BraKing. For you? Tusk.
Not solid.
Partly...not altogether why.
Not much. Some loss.
OK.
Yes.

Likey?

Sorry I wasted your time. I'll try to not do that again. :cry:

Cheers!

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Post by Ryan »

wooo, i dont understand your yes's and no's, :wink:
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Post by canyncarvr »

BraKing. For you? Tusk.
My rotor choice is BraKing. Considering your situation, I'd bet a Tusk or Titax would work fine for you.

Not solid.
Solid rotors are commonly preferred in conditions you don't list as being generally ridden in. I'd suggest a wave rotor..but they are quite expensive. A slotted rotor would be my next choice..but they aren't cheap, either. A drilled rotor is the next choice. Not as good as the previous, but plenty good enough, and that is what you will get with a Titax or Tusk.

Partly...not altogether why.
The chain guide block wears whether you use a 47 or 49. It will wear more (faster/sooner) with a 49 than with a 47. If you stick with the 49, consider a different guide..like Fredette offers. Buy some extra blocks..keep an eye on the wear factor.

Not much. Some loss.
You likely would not notice much if any difference with a one-tooth change in your rear sprocket. Changing from a 49 to a 48 will get you some bottom end 'loss'. It will also give you a higher top-end speed. Again, not much, but the rules of physics and motion do apply.

OK.
If Sunstars suit you, they tickle me. They are likely just fine for the intended (your) purpose.

Yes
Pull the chain off the rear sprocket in the 3:00 o'clock position. If you can pull it away from the sprocket more than 5/16's of an inch, it's likely about worn out. If your rear sprocket teeth are windswept (the teeth are leaning forward), the whole final drive (chain/two sprockets) is worn out.

For anyone else: Don't bother taking me to task for the chain wear part. The correct method for determining wear was already posted..jayburds need not reply. :blink:

Re: Why bother? I dunno. A masochistic disorder I guess. :roll:

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Post by skipro3 »

You are a hoot Carvr!! I think you see your younger self somewhere near!!

The fact you are showing your patience also shows your age. Same with Ryan; his patience also reflects his age. Good for you!!
(I was told that this weekend when out riding. I stopped and heard another bike coming up behind me. It was a young guy on a Yamaha 400 4T. When I took my helmet off and we chatted, he made the comment that it was good to see someone my age still out riding. "Good for you!" he said. I replyed, "eh? step a little closer sonny, I can't hear you so well." He caught my drift; asked if he could tag along. He caught up to us about 20 miles later. I told him, " Good for you!" Also told him some day he might just pass me on the trail....... some day, but not today!!
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Post by KDXer »

HAHAHA You 'ol folk' crack me up... :lol: :supz:










Hey, HEY !! Wait for MEEEEEEEEEeeeeee eeeeeeeeeeeeeee !!! :oops:
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Post by canyncarvr »

re: 'He caught up to us about 20 miles later. I told him, " Good for you!" '

:shock:
Dang! What a perfect rejoinder!!

Yur a bigger hooter'n ME! :wink:

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Post by Ryan »

>|<>QBB<
skipro3 wrote:You are a hoot Carvr!! I think you see your younger self somewhere near!!

The fact you are showing your patience also shows your age. Same with Ryan; his patience also reflects his age. Good for you!!
i guess i will take that as a complement even though im only 16.
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Post by skipro3 »

:lol: :lol: :lol:
Ryan, you are a hoot as well.
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Post by Indawoods »

Reminds me of a movie line....

The setup.... a trucker pulls up to this kid hitchhiking and he says....

"You sure are one cute little redheaded little boy.... want to go for a ride in my truck? Maybe we could have dinner! "


:shock:
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