A few questions about my 94 kdx200

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ubareddition
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A few questions about my 94 kdx200

Post by ubareddition »

Ive recently purchased a new to me kdx 200. 1994.
Im having an issue with it running too rich. Im following specifications for premix using good premium gas. Ive cleaned the air filter. The air box lid was already cut off by the PO. I have already taken apart the carb and cleaned it and installed a brand new sparkplug. After reassembly i was still having the same issues. The low end and aboit till 1/4 throttle is ok but everything after that the bike bogs. Not terrible. But not reaching full potential. Reading a few threads i took a look at the carb settings and im a bit confused hopefully someone can clear some stuff up for me.

What is clip position? I understand it has something to do with the main jet. Is it some sort of circle clip that keeps the main jet from being screwed all the way in? If so mine is deffinatly missing. My jet was screwed in all the way. So much so it was stuck and when i tried to back it out it snapped off. I was fortunate enough to carefully remove the stuck threads and get the jet out. It was a 150 which i beleive was a stock jet for that bike. I was contemplating getting a 148 jet. But if im correct and it was missing the clip that keeps it backed out would that be enough to lean it out a bit and bring back the full power? The air screw was set to about 3 1/2 turns out which im reading is alot. Probably compensation for the main jet being in all the way.

Also the 4 philips head screws that hold on the float bowl. Are there hex or allen head replacements for those stupid things? Im never gonna get those things back on or off again. If not does anyone know the size and tread pitch or should i just bring them down to a hard ware store for replacements.

I have a few other questions but this is the last big one that bothers me. The bike wont idle in gear and i feel like its because the clutch it dragging even tho the lever is pulled in all the way. I know theres an adjustment but i feel like tightening that would just make the clutch slip when its in gear and the lever is released. I might be wrong but i know the bikes been crashed before. Is it possible if the clutch lever was bent it would bottom out prematurely and not let the clutch to fully realease? What im saying is the clutch lever should have more of a bend in it so it pulls more cable before hitting the grip?

Thanks in advance.
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Re: A few questions about my 94 kdx200

Post by KDXGarage »

There is a clip on the needle. That is not related to the main jet. The main jet does screw all the way in. 150 sounds good for now.

The air screw should be around 1.5 turns out.

You need to get a JIS compatible screwdriver for the stock screws. They are JIS, not Philips. Google Vessel screwdrivers. I have a bunch and they work great.

The KIPS may not be working properly.

The clutch basket may have notches in it. Google both of those.

Good luck on it.
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pumpguy
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A few questions about my 94 kdx200

Post by pumpguy »

I was able to find stainless steel allen head screws for the float bowl at my local Ace Hardware. Just take a sample with you and match it up to what they have.

A frequent problem with performance is the jet block gasket inside the carburetor. The jet block is not usually removed when cleaning the carb. These jet block gaskets get damaged if the carb is cleaned out with carb cleaner.

Good luck
ubareddition
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A few questions about my 94 kdx200

Post by ubareddition »

Any one have a picture of what needle they are refering to when they mention clip position. Cause idk what you guys are talking about.
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A few questions about my 94 kdx200

Post by ohgood »

ubareddition wrote:Any one have a picture of what needle they are refering to when they mention clip position. Cause idk what you guys are talking about.

Image

you see the slide, and protruding from the slide is the needle. the end of the needle has grooves, which a circlip slips into. positions are, from bottom to top:
1,2,3,4,5,6 with "3" normally referred to as 'the middle clip'.

you have to hold the spring out of the way and carefully unhook the throttle cable to get to it, then nunscrew the 6mm nut that covers it.

don't strip that nut, or loose the circlip !
ubareddition
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A few questions about my 94 kdx200

Post by ubareddition »

Ah i see. Im going to get a new 150 main jet. Now when you say kips may not be working what do you mean by that? How would you fix it.
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A few questions about my 94 kdx200

Post by ubareddition »

I also decided to go thru the bikeas suggested in the newb forum and give it some love. The transmission oil was grey and watery. Also found oil in my coolant. So i took apart the water pump and the seal behind the impeller looks shot. It was split in half. Cant seem to get the other half out. Any suggestions. Also took off the reed box. Reeds look.....meh. any suggestions for reeds? Piston looks like that might also be coming out.
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Re: A few questions about my 94 kdx200

Post by Dekon »

In order to check the KIPS, you can pull the pipe and remove the gray cover on the right side on the motor. Loosen the KIPS arm(watch out it is left hand thread and also support the shaft so you don't snap the pin which is inside the clutch side riding in the governor) so it drops down a little and disengage from the KIPS rod. Looking into the pipe opening, pull on the KIPS rod on the side of the motor to see if the sub valves and main valve are opening. The e-series bike(89-94) are known to eat up the sub valves, especially the left one. What I am saying sounds complicated, but once you get a look at the bike you'll figure out. The KIPS sub valves are no longer available from Kawasaki but there is a company in England making steel ones. When mine go, I'm ordering the steel ones.
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Re: A few questions about my 94 kdx200

Post by Friedom »

These guys are giving you good info. The company that makes the steel KIPS valves is BDK racing. I've got 2 sets (and 2 e series KDXs) from them. Great guys, great product.
If you're replacing the piston, you'll be in a good place to see the condition of the KIPS. There are some who say things like, "E series KDXs only have two types of KIPS subvalves: broken and about-to-be.", and others who never have any issues. Left one was broken on both of my motors.
You can check Fredette Racing (FRP) for info on reeds and configurations to wake up your motor.

Good luck with your project. I took my newly rebuilt 92 out today and blasted across wide open and wash for a few miles. Suddenly all the shop time was worth it, they're such fun bikes.

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ubareddition
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A few questions about my 94 kdx200

Post by ubareddition »

Ok so i decided to get serious about this project and get this thing running again soon like it should be so first off i removed the carb and thee gas tank. Covered the intake and gave her a good wash Image
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A few questions about my 94 kdx200

Post by ubareddition »

Image there she is all clean. Now i can start disassembly without worring about dirt getting in my engine.

Ok first off about the kips valves. It seems to me they are working properly. They all spin. However. They were not hooked up so they werent working. When i took off the cover on the kickstarter side to get at the rod and such this fell into my hand. Image
Not the arm but the circular thing. It seems there should have been a circlip on the end of the rod that goes into the head. So that when the arm swings out it could pull that rod out. But that wasnt happening.

Image
Heres a closeup of that rod i was talking about. The second circlip was gone.

So theres that. Now on to the bad and the ugly.
Last edited by ubareddition on 08:13 pm May 24 2016, edited 2 times in total.
ubareddition
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A few questions about my 94 kdx200

Post by ubareddition »

Heres a look at the intake side of my piston.
Image

Heres the exhaust side
Image

Heres the cylinder walls

Image

Image

Image

Ive sent a few emails to ron black today and tomorrow ill get in touch with power seal usa. But it looks like i need to be replated and honed. I need a new piston.

Im still trying to figure out a few more things. Power seal offers a trim cut power valve. And a power valve removal. Are there any performance advantages to trimming cutting or removing them? On the exhaust and the intake side there is alot of rough metal from casting that im sure hurts air flow you can see what im talking about here
Image

Is that something that would typically be ported and polished when you send your cylinder in?
Last edited by ubareddition on 08:16 pm May 24 2016, edited 1 time in total.
ubareddition
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A few questions about my 94 kdx200

Post by ubareddition »

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ubareddition
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A few questions about my 94 kdx200

Post by ubareddition »

Also can someone show me the way the taillight assembly is supposed to look? Im missing some stuff. Image
ubareddition
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A few questions about my 94 kdx200

Post by ubareddition »

How do you guys think these reeds look?
Image

Image
Image
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G22inSC
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Re: A few questions about my 94 kdx200

Post by G22inSC »

I don't see any light coming through when looking through the reed block; however, considering the condition of the piston and cylinder, I would not re-plate and install a new piston with old reeds. Freshen everything in my opinion.
'05 Kaw KDX200 ('00 KX125 forks / '02 RM125 Showa "K2" shock)
'14 Yam YZ125(x) (oldest boy's)
'22 Yam YZ125X (youngest boy's)
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'08 Kaw KX65 (Sold)
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ubareddition
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A few questions about my 94 kdx200

Post by ubareddition »

Cant seem to find a bottom end kit. Any one know where i can get one?
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Re: A few questions about my 94 kdx200

Post by Friedom »

EBay and Amazon are your new best friends. And partzilla.
And rocky Mountain atv. Actually, I use rmatv more than anything else for oem.

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A few questions about my 94 kdx200

Post by Dekon »

The KIPS removal from Powerseal is for them to remove them(as opposed to you removing them) for replating the cylinder. I think the power valve trim cut is if you have the cylinder overbored. As G22 said if you are going to replate, I would put new reeds in. Boyesen's make a big difference.
ubareddition
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A few questions about my 94 kdx200

Post by ubareddition »

Im actually considering the mototassinari Delta Force III reeds. If i can get my second car sold or one of the extra motors i have it will kick this build into high gear. Right now im just going to work on removing the studs and powervalves and preping the cylinder for shipping. When i talked to powerseal they offer pistons and the stuff you need with them for a competitive price compared to amazon. Options were the pro x cast piston or the wiseco forged piston. Any suggestions with these. I asked for his recommendation and he said either would be fine. Im leaning toward the wiseco but wanted to know if there were any advantages to a cast piston over a forged.

Ive been using amazon quite a bit. I dont really like ebay. Ill try the other site you mentioned.
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