Changing Fork Oil.
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Changing Fork Oil.
I'm looking for some just basic instructions on draining and replacing fork oil for my KX forks. I just want to change the oil not rebuild or tear down. Also, what tools would I need to do this and what would be a good recomendation on oil levels when refilling the forks?
I looked at the Kayaba service link, but it's to much into tearing down and inspecting. Just want something straight forward and easy to understand....please.
I looked at the Kayaba service link, but it's to much into tearing down and inspecting. Just want something straight forward and easy to understand....please.
- Indawoods
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Untighten the top fork pinch bolts, loosen the top caps, unbolt your wheel and remove, Pull the forks, take caps off, pull springs, turn upside down and allow to drain well, then pump the rod to get the remaining oil out.... pour some fresh oil in while upright and pump rod again... turn upside down again and pump rod until all remaining oil is out. Do the same to the other fork.
Fill with fresh oil to around 100mm from the top of the fully extended forks... pump a few times and remeasure. (100mm should be close to where you want to be but check Team Green's recommendations or get a manual for your years forks) You may want to go with a little less oil for plushness if riding woods.
Reassemble forks and don't forget to turn the tubes onto the cap!
Put tubes back into the trees, assemble wheel onto the forks and go through the aligning process.
If I missed something...someone should jump in here....
Fill with fresh oil to around 100mm from the top of the fully extended forks... pump a few times and remeasure. (100mm should be close to where you want to be but check Team Green's recommendations or get a manual for your years forks) You may want to go with a little less oil for plushness if riding woods.
Reassemble forks and don't forget to turn the tubes onto the cap!
Put tubes back into the trees, assemble wheel onto the forks and go through the aligning process.
If I missed something...someone should jump in here....
*** Administrator //***
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
- KDX220PHIL
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Well this is on topic too I hope. How about a more detailed instructions on servicing, revalving, shimming, seals, general rebuilding. How about the motocross handbook by eric gorr? is this book any good? I also understand there are some videos on this kind of work, are they any good?
Do the KX manuals cover this type of work?
Thanks.
Do the KX manuals cover this type of work?
Thanks.
- Indawoods
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Gorr's book is kinda generalized... a good primer though. I have the older edition so the newer edition may have more details.
*** Administrator //***
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
- KDX220PHIL
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- canyncarvr
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As long as you've gone as far as getting the forks off the bike, why not at least take the cartridges out for a better cleaning and old oil removal?
The single additional step to the above of removing the base valve will let you take the guts (cartridge) out of the tubes. If your forks have not been apart for awhile you will be surprised how much slime is piled in the bottom of the fork. You won't get that out if you simply up-end and drain the fork.
A 14mm hex and an impact wrench will do nicely to remove the base valve. Use some common sense and care when using an air tool. A 1/2" driver with 120psi behind it, set to 'hi' isn't what you need to use.....
imo and all that...........
The single additional step to the above of removing the base valve will let you take the guts (cartridge) out of the tubes. If your forks have not been apart for awhile you will be surprised how much slime is piled in the bottom of the fork. You won't get that out if you simply up-end and drain the fork.
A 14mm hex and an impact wrench will do nicely to remove the base valve. Use some common sense and care when using an air tool. A 1/2" driver with 120psi behind it, set to 'hi' isn't what you need to use.....
imo and all that...........
Consider the source
Using a perceived level of knowledge to boost my self worth.
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- Indawoods
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There is also special procedures needed to do that ... like leave the forks together and turn upside down and apply some pressure when trying to get the base valve off with the impact or else it will screw up the cartridge, or just spin and you will never get them apart without the cartridge holder (special tool).
If you want to go that far... make sure you read the Kayaba Fork Servicing page... or else you are in for a extra special treat!
If you want to go that far... make sure you read the Kayaba Fork Servicing page... or else you are in for a extra special treat!
*** Administrator //***
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
- fulltiltboogie
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Last edited by fulltiltboogie on 08:23 pm Dec 27 2005, edited 2 times in total.
- Indawoods
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Jon's (jafo) forks are KX forks and are a bit different but not so much changing the oil is any different... just some of the assembly (i.e... no preload spacer...etc)
*** Administrator //***
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
- canyncarvr
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re: special procedures
Well, OK. Not real special.
I kind'a left that part out figuring jafo's been around long enough to know all about that part.
Probably shouldn't-a, though.
Thanks for pointing it out!
Well, OK. Not real special.
I kind'a left that part out figuring jafo's been around long enough to know all about that part.
Probably shouldn't-a, though.
Thanks for pointing it out!
Consider the source
Using a perceived level of knowledge to boost my self worth.
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
bike profile: !clicky!
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- Supporting Member III
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Thanks Indi, a couple questions. After filling the oil on the first go and pumping the fork a few times and refilling. should you keep pumping the fork and adding oil until the oil level stops decreasing after you reach the desired oil level?
Also what do you mean by "turning the forks onto the caps"?
Last, what are you and Cc talking about? I don't want any special supprises.
Also what do you mean by "turning the forks onto the caps"?
Last, what are you and Cc talking about? I don't want any special supprises.