Education Needed on Gearbox Oils

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Velocity_Stack
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Education Needed on Gearbox Oils

Post by Velocity_Stack »

I've seen people sticking with the recommended OEM, synthetics and ATF fluids with some results better than others.

Since purchase, I changed to Klotz Flex Drive 30 synthetic, for a piece of mind. Which is a a 75W/80 equivalent, but the label reads it's suitable for SAE 20, 30 and 40W.

I think about all these people running ATF and wonder why it works so well for them. Seems to be a thinner weight oil, but makes sense it's holding up due to the wet clutch system. Better gear shifting constancy. Is this really giving the proper lubrication to the bearings on the shafts?

I work around Diesel engines in a Freightliner dealership and they use a 15W/40 oil for the engine, which lubricates the entire engine, gear-train and all. I stress the 'gear-train' thought here.

With that being said, I also own a KLR 650 and have read all the posts on the 'best' oil to run in those 4-stroke engines, which also circulates to lube the entire engine. Gearbox, upper and lower components.

Rotella T seems to be the winner on the KLR side of things, so that is what I run, but there's always the people that use Delo and Delvac, or just the run of mill 10W/40 as the manual says.

It's all gear-train driven oils, which consists of a lot metal to metal meshing of gears.

The question is: Could these gear meshing oils, Rotella T, Delo and Delvac be a consideration for a gearbox lube on a KDX?


Thanks in advance for any replies of opinion.
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Re: Education Needed on Gearbox Oils

Post by MarioM3 »

Are you having any problems with the klotz? I run klotz, I really like it, shifts smooth, no excessive noise. I ran 10/40 before and like klotz better. I've done some research on this and a lot of KDX guys do run the atf and or the rotella t. I've even bought a case of atf type f to do my own study. But haven't gotten around to start yet. I did find out you have to change atf a lot more frequently (every ride or every other ride, 3-6hrs) this is just what I gathered from searching.

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Re: Education Needed on Gearbox Oils

Post by Friedom »

I'm just getting started on 2 E series KDXs, and am wondering about this also. So far I'm running ATF, as I had some around. I usually run Rotella T in my 4 strokes, and will probably switch over to that after break in periods so that it's the same oil everywhere. And so I can use up all this ATF I've gathered over the years.

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Re: Education Needed on Gearbox Oils

Post by bushx »

There was ATF in mine when I bought it last year, but I switched it to Rotella T6, just because that's what I run in my other two bikes. No problems so far.
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Re: Education Needed on Gearbox Oils

Post by jjavaman »

I use atf in mine, change it every other ride. Great shifting,inexpensive, I'm happy.
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Re: Education Needed on Gearbox Oils

Post by david »

Automotive automatic transmissions have a lot of the same type of components that we have in our KDX transmissions, wet clutches, meshing gears (planetary gears in automatics), and roller or needle bearings. ATF is also used in many 4X4 transfer cases that also have meshing gears and large chain drives. Should be no surprise that ATF works well and is used by so many.
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Re: Education Needed on Gearbox Oils

Post by TheRadBaron »

I use Rotella 15w-40 in just about every bike I have, including the KDX gearbox. It works great for me and it's cheap. I change it every hard ride/race or every other mellow ride. My personal opinion is that this is better than using a high-dollar gearbox specific oil and changing it less frequently due to its expense.
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Re: Education Needed on Gearbox Oils

Post by Friedom »

Every other ride. Wow. That's a little different from my 350 that I change it every couple thousand miles. Ho hum. It's only 8/10s of a quart and no filter.

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Education Needed on Gearbox Oils

Post by SS109 »

The KDX calls for 10w30 or 10w40 from the factory. Both are 10w base oil until the additives are put in to achieve their multiple viscosity ratings.

ATF is also 10w hence why it works well but has friction modifiers that work very well with wet clutches. ATF also has detergents that keep the transmission very clean and, IIRC, has better shear strength than conventional motor oils. I have learned that I can go even longer between oil changes running ATF than conventional motor oils with no ill effects.

I've never been a fan of using Rotella or other 15w oils in my 2T's because of it's heavier weight. They have detergents like ATF, which is good, but the heavier weight and worrying about starving the transmission shaft's bearing has always kept me away.
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Re: Education Needed on Gearbox Oils

Post by Velocity_Stack »

MarioM3 wrote:Are you having any problems with the klotz? I run klotz, I really like it, shifts smooth, no excessive noise. I ran 10/40 before and like klotz better. I've done some research on this and a lot of KDX guys do run the atf and or the rotella t. I've even bought a case of atf type f to do my own study. But haven't gotten around to start yet. I did find out you have to change atf a lot more frequently (every ride or every other ride, 3-6hrs) this is just what I gathered from searching.

Mario

I have had no issues with Klotz, but it's all I've run to this point.

I run Klotz R-50 premix in all of my jet skies (not the KDX), so that is why I went with that brand in the KDX for the gearbox.

I'm thinking ahead towards the next oil change, even though the bike is currently up for sale, but I'm not giving it away as some may think. Either pay up or I'll just keep it.


Good posts coming out of this thread, keep'm coming.
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Re: Education Needed on Gearbox Oils

Post by Bitteeinit »

Because I live in a hot climate, most oils readily available were 20w50. I used that for a little while until my kdx kick wouldn't engage properly. After some research, I tried different oils and finally realized that 10w40 (I think it might have been 15w40) worked nicely. Kick start engaged every time. I have a wr450f now and I've read about guys putting rotella diesel oil in it...

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Re: Education Needed on Gearbox Oils

Post by Friedom »

I noticed that my 92 with an engine that has under 1hr on it drags pretty hard when the clutch is in. It's very hard to put it in neutral while running, and I have to turn up the idle so it doesn't stall out when I stop in gear.
It's not a new clutch, but could this be results of the ATF?

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Re: Education Needed on Gearbox Oils

Post by Velocity_Stack »

Friedom wrote:I noticed that my 92 with an engine that has under 1hr on it drags pretty hard when the clutch is in. It's very hard to put it in neutral while running, and I have to turn up the idle so it doesn't stall out when I stop in gear.
It's not a new clutch, but could this be results of the ATF?

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I think this has something to do with grooves or notches in the clutch basket, which I read about here a few years back.

Since baskets are not readily available, some use a Dremel to cut the notches out and it all works just like new.

Don't quote me on this, but I'm pretty sure that is the cause that you are describing. Just search around in here about clutches and you'll find it.
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Re: Education Needed on Gearbox Oils

Post by Friedom »

I'm wondering if I am using the right ATF, also.

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Re: Education Needed on Gearbox Oils

Post by Tedh98 »

Type F
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Re: Education Needed on Gearbox Oils

Post by Friedom »

It's a generic autozone type that I had around. Says compatible with everything rated for type f, dexron iii/iv, mercon, and all those other ratings that leave me feeling rather unillumined.

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Re: Education Needed on Gearbox Oils

Post by Friedom »

It won't be in there long. This is break in time.

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Education Needed on Gearbox Oils

Post by SS109 »

ATF Type F is preferred due to it's friction modifiers that help the clutch lock up harder but even Dexron/Mercon III works fine. I use the cheapest Type F I can find.
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Re: Education Needed on Gearbox Oils

Post by ecojbr »

This thread should really open the eyes to everyone about how "UN crucial" two stroke gear oil is. Lots of people using lots of different oils with great results. If you feel it's the one for you, keep it changed then it should be fine. The only thing I have noticed with heavier oils is clutch plates sticking when cold. After just a few minutes of ride time the loosened up. Saw this just last weekend with a new yz250x. Very cold temps and clutch wouldn't disengage until road for a few min.
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Re: Education Needed on Gearbox Oils

Post by Friedom »

Both of my DXs are running the same autozone ATF, and both drag pretty hard when you stop in gear with the clutch in. Had to raise the idle on both to compensate. Hoping it'll clear up when I go with a more specific type F. If that doesn't help, I'll try out the Rotella.

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