99 kdx 200 cylinder leaking

Chilly · Post by **Chilly** » 10:11 am Feb 12 2016

So I sent my cylinder off for replating. I picked it up yesterday and put the bike back together. When I started the bike anti freeze started leaking from the Allen screw in the front bottom of the cylinder located under the pipe. Is there anyway to fix this without removing everything.?

david · Post by **david** » 10:52 am Feb 12 2016

Looks like you need to pull the pipe plug out and seal it. It was probably just installed loose by the plating shop and you missed it before reassembly. From looking at a pic of the cylinder, I would say you're going to have to tear it all down again.

Tedh98 · Post by **Tedh98** » 10:56 am Feb 12 2016

I don't think so. Unless I'm picturing it wrong, you'll need to remove the cylinder to be able to access it.

In the past I've wrapped that in teflon tape like you'd use on water pipes. My thinking is that it would prevent leaks and maybe make it easier to remove if there is ever a next time for replating.

I've not had leaks with any of those cylinders.

Chilly · Post by **Chilly** » 12:49 pm Feb 12 2016

Yeah I took it back off. The bolt was very loose. My piston already has scaring on it. Is this normal.

Tedh98 · Post by **Tedh98** » 01:55 pm Feb 12 2016

Chilly wrote:My piston already has scaring on it. Is this normal.

Do you have a picture?

Chilly · Post by **Chilly** » 02:50 pm Feb 12 2016

How do I post pictures

Tedh98 · Post by **Tedh98** » 04:29 pm Feb 12 2016

Scroll down in this thread: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... ng#p151870

You can also use your gallery to host the picture.

Who did the plating?
Did you provide a piston to them or buy one of theirs?
What type of piston - cast or forged?
What is your warm-up procedure?

Chilly · Post by **Chilly** » 04:57 pm Feb 12 2016

I took my cylinder to a local kawi dealer. Not sure who they use. I bought a stock wiesco piston and sent it all to the dealer. Dealer says the scratching is normal. I will try and post pics. I ain't made it to the break in period yet due to this leak I had.

Chilly · Post by **Chilly** » 05:14 pm Feb 12 2016

Can you see these

Tedh98 · Post by **Tedh98** » 05:16 pm Feb 12 2016

Wow! Stay away from that dealer if he thinks that is normal.

Chilly · Post by **Chilly** » 05:22 pm Feb 12 2016

They look worse in the pictures. My finger nail does hang on them though. Should I not drive it or should I send it back.

Tedh98 · Post by **Tedh98** » 05:29 pm Feb 12 2016

To me that looks like some type of debris was somewhere in your engine and scratched it up. So that is just from a couple of minutes of running?

Did you clean the cylinder out before putting it on?
Was the bottom end covered up while the cylinder was off being plated?

Chilly · Post by **Chilly** » 05:33 pm Feb 12 2016

I cleaned the cylinder walls only and yes I covered the lower end until I got my parts back. What should I do.

david · Post by **david** » 05:52 pm Feb 12 2016

The cylinder looks ok. The piston isn't great, but it's not terrible. It does look like you had some trash in the ports when you fired it up. I would remove the rings, smooth the scratches with a sharp file or some Emory cloth, clean the piston real good and clean out the cylinder and ports with carb cleaner or brake cleaner. Blow dry with compressed air and put a light coat of 2 stroke oil on the piston when you reassemble it.

Chilly · Post by **Chilly** » 05:55 pm Feb 12 2016

Ok sounds good. I hope this works. Thanks for the info

Tedh98 · Post by **Tedh98** » 05:59 pm Feb 12 2016

I've been known to over-complicate things, so keep that in mind with my advice.

If that were my engine, I would need to find out where and what caused those scratches.

I'm not sure if all plating companies recommend this, but PowerSeal says to wash out the cylinder in hot soapy water. I do that plus I hit it with a can of brake cleaner to make sure everything is out.

Since you have the cylinder off, I would hold the cylinder over some clean paper towels and then shoot it with carb or brake cleaner. The white paper towels will make it easy to see if there was debris in the cylinder.

I'm not sure if you did it, but I would also clean out the entire intake system in case something got in there while those parts were off.

You could also flush out the bottom end with some pre-mix.

But again, I tend to make simple things complicated.

Chilly · Post by **Chilly** » 06:08 pm Feb 12 2016

I didn't do any of that. I just wiped the cylinder walls. I will clean it really good and blow out the crank case. After that I guess I will put it back together. What break in routine do you use

Post by **SS109** » 06:41 pm Feb 12 2016

They don't need any break in really. Fire it up, let it get to full temp, shut it down, and let cool fully. Then check that everything is still tight, no leaks, and top off the coolant if needed. Now it's ready for regular riding. Start it up, wait until the radiators are just starting to get uncomfortable to touch, and then go ride! You don't need to take it easy or baby it.

Chilly · Post by **Chilly** » 06:47 am Feb 13 2016

Thanks

Tedh98 · Post by **Tedh98** » 11:11 am Feb 14 2016

I agree with SS109. Once I get it warmed up, I then try to ride it as hard as I can as quickly as I can to get those rings seated.

Whatever method you use, just make sure you have the engine fully warmed up since you have the forged piston. For that matter, always make sure the engine is fully warmed up before riding.

Do you know what jets are in the carb? I would definitely error on the rich side of things until you can go through the jetting process.

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