Unitrack seals

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KDXer
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Unitrack seals

Post by KDXer »

Can anyone tell me whether the seals are meant to be pressed in level with the unitrack or are the meant to sit out just a fraction ??

I have finally pulled the a$$ end off bearing replacement and have got all the old bearings out. The new lower shock bearing has been installed but the seals don't sit flush with the unitrack. I have pressed them in as hard as I am comfortable and they are still. I'm sure it's the sleeve stopping them from going in any further. I have measured the longest unitrack sleeve aznd compared that to the old sleeve, results below;

Old sleeve = 57.07MM
New sleeve = 57.67MM

In other words the new (All Balls) sleeve is approx half a MM longer. Would this cause the seals to not seat all the way in flush or is it too small an amount to matter ?? I am stuck at the moment because I don't want to put the rest in if the sleeves are also too long..... Any help would be appreciated. Where are ya Jason I know you've done this before ?? :mrgreen:
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Post by Indawoods »

Do they seal and you can get your shock over them without binding or possibly dislodging the seals? If so... I would call it good. But I would have to go and get an OEM setup to compare too....
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Post by KDXer »

Lower shock bearing and sleeve. (look's good as new, well minus the grease)
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Swingarm bearing. (not so new looking)
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The whole mess. (and I mean MESS)
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Anyone who hasn't done your bearings yet, DO IT !!! They probably need replacing like mine did. I used sockets and a vise to get them all out and back in, no problems. I wish I knew the All Balls Swingarm bearing kit doesn't come with the swingarm bearings though... :roll:


Can anyone tell me what these 4 washers are for ??

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Here's the overhang I speak of.
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Ryan
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Post by Ryan »

if you figure out the problem please let me know as i will be buying some moose bearings for the swingarm and linkage also. How did you press them in? Did you just use a vice or something??
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KDXer
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Post by KDXer »

KAY DEE EXER wrote:I used sockets and a vise to get them all out and back in, no problems.
Unitrack done, now off to go buy swingarm bearings too. :roll:
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canyncarvr
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Post by canyncarvr »

The seals fit flush with the knuckle..meaning the outer flange is snug TO the knuckle. No space.

The sleeve being longer won't effect the seat of the seals. Obviously the sleeve fits inside the seal. It does not butt up against the seal(s).

If you think the sleeve is too long, take it out. Does the seal fit better now?

The sleeve is hard to get INto the seal when pressure is applied from the INside of the seal. Obviously, you HAVE to do that to at least one of the seals.

If you have grease outside of the bearing shell where the seal wants to seat..it can be darn near impossible to get the seals seated. There is no place for the grease to go! Either remove some of it or seat the seals with the sleeve out, THEN slip the seal **edit**wrong word...not 'seal', but 'sleevel' in (keeping in mind the second seal is going to take some pressure to get the sleeve into place).

All of that is for the larger bearings.

But..your pic of 'this is the overhang...'..

Obviously THAT is the shock bearing. Yes. Those seals stick out some. The sleeve in THAT position DOES matter, because it does NOT slip through the seal but DOES butt up against them.

BTW..it's easy to have the bearing in the wrong spot. You can judge the depth by looking at the machined groove in the knuckle that accepts the seal lip. Best to measure from side to side to get an equal depth on both sides. It may take a couple of tries to get the bearing in the middle.

You DID use some never-seize on the bearing shells prior to pressing them in, right?

No? Oh well. You may well have more fun getting them out NEXT time.

I would NOT use a sleeve longer than OEM in the lower shock mount. It will make the seals sit too far out AND likely interfere with the fit in the clevis of the shock. Check the width of the knuckle and the clevis. It is NOT generally a tight fit, but it had better be pretty close. You are going to squeeze the bottom of the shock (the clevis) to fit the kuckle width.

The four washers are quite thin, right? They are used in KX250s between the pull rods and the knuckle/swingarm. They are not used in an OEM 'H' model KDX. Ha!...the bolts are too short as it is! The KX250 bolt shoulders are considerably longer. I use them..KX250..bolts in my 'H' unitrack with my Devol pull rods with those washers.

So...you're all figger'd out, now?

If not...take'm your questions one at a time, how 'bout? Keep in mind that my references are to the 'H' model unitrack setup. Some of what I said doesn't matter model-wise (like the larger bearing seals not seating and such).

Whew! I'm tired!! :shock:

**edit**

Went back and read your post for the third time. You do mention the whole issue being the lower shock. Guess I din't read too goot the first time. Again...that sleeve DOES butt up against the seals, does NOT go through as the other sleeves do. I recall (weight such recollection as fact if you dare!) the OEM sleeve in the lower shock unitrack position to be a tad short. I'm saying the difference between the clevis gap and the unitrack width seemed a bit big (loose) to me. A longer sleeve would be a good thing..as long as it fits into the clevis ok..AND as long as both lips (each seal is double lipped) of the seal are inside the knuckle.

Howz THAT!!??
Last edited by canyncarvr on 11:56 am Dec 27 2005, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by KDXer »

Poifecto !!! Cheers.

Now I presume the swingarm seals also hang out just a tad ?? As long as the double lips are both inside the swingarm, right ?
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Post by canyncarvr »

Well, funny you should bring that up...cuz looking at your pile-o-parts I wondered about the swingarm seals....I didn't see them. Well, maybe two, but not four.

SO...this may well be an 'H' thing. The seals do indeed stick out a good bit. Well the metal part of it. Nope...I didn't go to buykaw and look it up.

Oh...a side note...maybe.

Pivotworks bearings are NOT like for like replacements. Again...not in the 'H' model anyway. There are places where OEM configuration is two narrow bearings side by side, the PW kit is a considerably wider SINGLE bearing.

And...while the OEM bearings are likely held in the outer race (not caged..but held in by pins riding in the race itself), the PW bearings may well NOT be retained at all.

That makes the individual 'needles' a tad longer AND makes the bearing easier to clean well because all of the rollers come OUT of the race.

Don't loose any of 'em!!

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Post by KDXer »

Excellent.

All done for the second time as I pressed the bearings in too far the first time DOH !!! :oops:

I really appreciate your help again Brad.

Oh BTW HAha !!! I get my presents a day earlier than you's... :razz: :partyman:
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Post by canyncarvr »

Water under the bridge and all by now...but...

You pressed them in too far? Care to expand on that a tad?

If your swingarm setup is the two bearings on each arm, you would want to place the bearings as far apart as they could be in each arm and still be able to properly fit the inserts (imo and all)...not pressed close together.

Is that what you're referring to when you say 'too far'?

Fine! So you opened yours early (well...if you even GOT anything other'n a lump of coal). Keep this in mind, son. On any Sunday you find yourself enjoying a beautiful ride..but it's getting dark and you gotta load up...MY riding day is JUST beginning!! So..... :zip:

AND you will always be OLDER'n ME! :wink:



Oh..if it matters, please to check the **edit** above. I misspoke.

...I hope it didn't make SENSE to you in the first place..... :cry:

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Post by cfspawn »

hey
did ya replace the sleevs and the little cups with the swing arm bearings as well mine seem ok but are probably worn :supz:
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Post by cfspawn »

Yeah i just managed to get the remainder of the old bearings out of the swing arm (outer shell) as they had totally disintigrated just used a same size socket and bashed em out came out fine really happy with that just gotta put the new ones in...
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Post by KDXer »

DON'T bash the new ones in fer cryin out loud !! ;)

Freeze just the bearings (in a ziplock bag) overnight and press in with either vice or g-clamp and appropriate sized sockets.
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