Went out saturday to take the 91' for a spin. After an hour I finally got it started. Could not get the kickstarter to engage more than a few times in a row, then I would kick it 20 times before it would catch again. Then once it started catching still couldn't get it to fire, replaced plug, no luck, gave a squirt of carb cleaner...fired up, and finally ran. I have not owned this bike during the cold weather until now, been in the 20's last week, could this been the cause of the kickstarter malfunction, as I had no problems back in september/october. What about the hard start? Jetting? Operator?
Kickstart not meshing?
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Kickstart not meshing?
04' WR250F--All the standard mods
91' KDX200 (a.k.a. The White Ghost)--not much done yet
01' XR80-kids
01' XR50-kids
85' GS550E--For Sale
91' KDX200 (a.k.a. The White Ghost)--not much done yet
01' XR80-kids
01' XR50-kids
85' GS550E--For Sale
- m0rie
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Most likely your kick starter gear or spring is getting worn out. As a temp fix to try, put fresh 10W-30 oil in the tranny and see if that helps the kick starter engage a little better. My 89's kickstarter starts slipping when the oil gets dirty.
-Maurice
-Maurice
1989 KDX 200
2007 TTR-50E
2007 TTR-50E
- KanuckKDX
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Good tip about the dirty oil. Mine was filthy, the kick starter wouldn't engage and when we pulled the kick stater apart everything was fine. We replaced parts anyways since we're in there but dirty oil is a likely problem.
When I was having your problem and had dirty oil (you can't change oil on the trail) I could engage the kickstarter if I kicked gently, letting it engage slowly and then a gentle kick to the bottom.
When I was having your problem and had dirty oil (you can't change oil on the trail) I could engage the kickstarter if I kicked gently, letting it engage slowly and then a gentle kick to the bottom.
KanuckKDX
'01 YZ426F son's
'02 XR400 still for sale
'04 KTM 450exc it's all about the e-start
'01 YZ426F son's
'02 XR400 still for sale
'04 KTM 450exc it's all about the e-start
- m0rie
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Kanuck has the technique down. Basically just gently kick till you feel resistance. Then bring the lever up and kick thru in a smooth motion and it should fire right up.KanuckKDX wrote: When I was having your problem and had dirty oil (you can't change oil on the trail) I could engage the kickstarter if I kicked gently, letting it engage slowly and then a gentle kick to the bottom.
1989 KDX 200
2007 TTR-50E
2007 TTR-50E
- layoutd
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don't know about the older models, but i got one of those fredette kickers and it is a dream. the metal on my old kicker actually bent and the threads rounded. sucked when stuck out on the trail. got that fredette kicker and it has been one of the better mods i have done that did not involve the engine. butter
Eatin' ain't Cheatin'
- canyncarvr
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Old hat..but as the weather turns colder, your bike wants a richer jetting. IF you were spot on @ 50º, you're likely a good one size too small (lean) @ 20º.
A temporary 'rich' air screw setting may help a marginal pilot jetting. Turn it in 1/2 or so (depending on where you usually run it). I generally run 2 1/2 out, AND I'm lean on the pilot (38). Couple that with a .038" plug, and starting my bike can be a problem. So...I turn the AS in one turn, kick it a few times with the kill switch 'on' (prime and reed un-sticker), a few kicks and it's a go.
Another old-timer method...rock the bike BACKWARD in gear. That's good for unsticking the reeds, too. **note MCF below** (Moronic Correction Factor)
Old gas? It's only a matter of days before fuel starts to degrade.
No...none of that has anything to do with a kicker that doesn't engage..but if you only get a catch every once in awhile...better make that once count!
A temporary 'rich' air screw setting may help a marginal pilot jetting. Turn it in 1/2 or so (depending on where you usually run it). I generally run 2 1/2 out, AND I'm lean on the pilot (38). Couple that with a .038" plug, and starting my bike can be a problem. So...I turn the AS in one turn, kick it a few times with the kill switch 'on' (prime and reed un-sticker), a few kicks and it's a go.
Another old-timer method...rock the bike BACKWARD in gear. That's good for unsticking the reeds, too. **note MCF below** (Moronic Correction Factor)
Old gas? It's only a matter of days before fuel starts to degrade.
No...none of that has anything to do with a kicker that doesn't engage..but if you only get a catch every once in awhile...better make that once count!
Last edited by canyncarvr on 11:56 am Dec 13 2005, edited 1 time in total.
Consider the source
Using a perceived level of knowledge to boost my self worth.
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
bike profile: !clicky!
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Unsticking the reeds? Never heard of that one before. Why do the reeds stick? Temperature or the 2-stroke mix creating a bond between cage and reed?
Old gas could have been problem as well.
I will change oil on the kickstart issue.
Thanks all.
Old gas could have been problem as well.
I will change oil on the kickstart issue.
Thanks all.
04' WR250F--All the standard mods
91' KDX200 (a.k.a. The White Ghost)--not much done yet
01' XR80-kids
01' XR50-kids
85' GS550E--For Sale
91' KDX200 (a.k.a. The White Ghost)--not much done yet
01' XR80-kids
01' XR50-kids
85' GS550E--For Sale
- canyncarvr
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They stick for the same reason the clutch plates stick. Take a considerable amount of flat area (reed tips and cage edges) made to make a seal against air (well, and fuel) movement, get them wet with something slimey (oil) put pressure on the whole thing (reed tension)..let it sit for a week or two....
Take any old reed cage..the OEM unit you took out when you put your DF3's in for example , try to 'unseat' the reed petals with your finger. The petal will likely 'snap' when it cuts loose from the cage..and it will take less pressure the second time than it did the first.
That assumes said cage is NOT perfectly dry, but more like what you would see on the thing if you had just taken it out of your bike.
Actually...the backward movement of a bike in gear isn't to unstick the reeds...**correction**. I was mis-thinking. That's to position the piston to just ATDC, so your kick to start the thing does the most good. That's an old big bore starting trick.
..sorry 'bout that.
Reeds still stick, though!
Take any old reed cage..the OEM unit you took out when you put your DF3's in for example , try to 'unseat' the reed petals with your finger. The petal will likely 'snap' when it cuts loose from the cage..and it will take less pressure the second time than it did the first.
That assumes said cage is NOT perfectly dry, but more like what you would see on the thing if you had just taken it out of your bike.
Actually...the backward movement of a bike in gear isn't to unstick the reeds...**correction**. I was mis-thinking. That's to position the piston to just ATDC, so your kick to start the thing does the most good. That's an old big bore starting trick.
..sorry 'bout that.
Reeds still stick, though!
Consider the source
Using a perceived level of knowledge to boost my self worth.
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
bike profile: !clicky!
- KanuckKDX
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New word "mis-thinking". What does it mean to "mis-think"?canyncarvr wrote: I was mis-thinking.
Could I use that one if I make a mistake on an exam? What about if I am wrong at home.
"Honey, I wasn't wrong. I just mis-thinked. But I am sorry."
Would you send condolences at my funeral?
KanuckKDX
'01 YZ426F son's
'02 XR400 still for sale
'04 KTM 450exc it's all about the e-start
'01 YZ426F son's
'02 XR400 still for sale
'04 KTM 450exc it's all about the e-start