KDXRIDER.NET

So I've read about some of the mods for the KDX200 (I've got an '01) Different reeds, Ron Black carb mods, head/cylinder mods, upgraded suspension, etc.

I'm an older, slower rider who pretty much just putts around in the woods. I find my bike a little twitchy when I ride in tighter trails, and wonder if there are any of these mods (or others) that would make the bike easier to ride. Or is keeping it stock my best bet?

Suspension is the number one mod to make your bike easier to ride. Make sure it has the correct springs, set your sag, and take the time to dial it in. Next would be an auto-clutch or a steering damper (that helps with twitchy bikes). Then we have the smaller, yet still important things like maybe finding a bar bend you like better, maybe you might like/need bar risers, wider pegs are always nice, different grips can make difference, a gripper seat cover can make it easier to stay on the bike, hydraulic clutches reduce fatigue, and left hand rear brake setup gives better rear brake control. Even just picking good tires and finding the best pressure to run them at can have a huge impact on the rideability of the bike.

Yeah, I know that's a lot to take in but that gives you an idea on the areas and parts that really make a difference for a rider. Good luck!

bws2 wrote:So I've read about some of the mods for the KDX200 (I've got an '01) Different reeds, Ron Black carb mods, head/cylinder mods, upgraded suspension, etc.

I'm an older, slower rider who pretty much just putts around in the woods. I find my bike a little twitchy when I ride in tighter trails, and wonder if there are any of these mods (or others) that would make the bike easier to ride. Or is keeping it stock my best bet?

PRACTICE
OR
Put a 14 tooth front sprocket on it...That will smooth out the twitchyness that you feel you have.

SS109 wrote:Suspension is the number one mod to make your bike easier to ride. Make sure it has the correct springs, set your sag, and take the time to dial it in. Next would be an auto-clutch or a steering damper (that helps with twitchy bikes). Then we have the smaller, yet still important things like maybe finding a bar bend you like better, maybe you might like/need bar risers, wider pegs are always nice, different grips can make difference, a gripper seat cover can make it easier to stay on the bike, hydraulic clutches reduce fatigue, and left hand rear brake setup gives better rear brake control. Even just picking good tires and finding the best pressure to run them at can have a huge impact on the rideability of the bike.

Yeah, I know that's a lot to take in but that gives you an idea on the areas and parts that really make a difference for a rider. Good luck!

Wow! Thanks SS109. Those are things I never even considered. One question, do they make auto-clutches for the KDX200?

6 Riders wrote:

bws2 wrote: PRACTICE
OR
Put a 14 tooth front sprocket on it...That will smooth out the twitchyness that you feel you have.

Thank you 6 Riders. I'll make sure I have a 14 tooth for the next time I ride.

I wish I could get more practice, but I just can't seem to find many other slow pokes to ride with.

I hate to slow faster riders down.

bws2 wrote:Wow! Thanks SS109. Those are things I never even considered. One question, do they make auto-clutches for the KDX200?

EFM does and one of our board members scienced out how to put a Rekluse in the '95+ bikes. Think was even making them for sale for a while.

As for the twitchiness, a 14t sprocket might help depending on if it's the power that is making it feel that way. More than likely, though, it's your suspension and/or tires.

bws2 wrote:

6 Riders wrote:

bws2 wrote: PRACTICE
OR
Put a 14 tooth front sprocket on it...That will smooth out the twitchyness that you feel you have.

Thank you 6 Riders. I'll make sure I have a 14 tooth for the next time I ride.

I wish I could get more practice, but I just can't seem to find many other slow pokes to ride with.

I hate to slow faster riders down.

I have a 14 tooth hanging in my garage if you want to try it out.

bws2 wrote:I'm an older, slower rider who pretty much just putts around in the woods. I find my bike a little twitchy when I ride in tighter trails...

Sounds like maybe an XR would work better for you? The downside is they're a bit heavier than the KDX. I'm pretty sure they're also slower, but it doesn't sound like that would be a problem.

How about a flywheel weight?

You could also try a flywheel weight ..stealthy make them, they are easy to fit & remove, your bike will still make the same power ...it just tames the 'hit' ...will give better traction in the woods ... You could also remove one or both of the small copper washers from the powervalve bolt , this will make the valve open a little later.

Something else to consider is changing to longer dog bone links for the rear shock. Stock center length is 112.5 mm IIRC. If you're at all handy with metal working, you can make your own from 1/4" steel plate. Kouba Links is a source if you want to buy them.

Longer links will lower the rear, which will result in a greater than stock rake angle. More rake will increase high speed stability, at the expense of low speed handling.

This mod may, or may not achieve the the results you're after, but the cost is low, and easily reversed with a few minutes work.

bws2 wrote:So I've read about some of the mods for the KDX200 (I've got an '01) Different reeds, Ron Black carb mods, head/cylinder mods, upgraded suspension, etc.

I'm an older, slower rider who pretty much just putts around in the woods. I find my bike a little twitchy when I ride in tighter trails, and wonder if there are any of these mods (or others) that would make the bike easier to ride. Or is keeping it stock my best bet?

a flywheel weight will bring down the initial hit of throttle inputs and make the bike much more tame. i also ran a 15 (48 rear) tooth front sprocket to test and see how smooth the power delivery could be. i reallllly liked the smoothness of the bike with a flywheel weight and 15t front sprocket. the agressiveness is still there, but i had to get the rpm's up considerably before the HIT of power was apparent.

woods riding is all about smooth power delivery. working on your clutch skills, and smoooooth throttle inputs will make it all come together.

of course there are suspension (SAG !) settings that will make riding the bike easier, along with a good set of tires.

the kdx can be a very tame machine with the right inputs, or just RIPPING through the woods it all depends on your right wrist.



i've also installed a kx125 clutch arm (the one on the case) for an even longer friction zone and lighter pull than stock. it's actually lighter than most of the hydraulic clutches i've tried on my friends very nice ktm's.

i would say hold off from purchasing a rekluse until you're completely comfortable with the clutch and power of the kdx. it can become a nightmare if you forget to shift into neutral, in a big ole hurry ;-)

ohgood What year kx 125 clutch arm did u use?

Silverfox wrote:ohgood What year kx 125 clutch arm did u use?

the ebay listing said it was a 1989 kx125 I paid $10 + shipping of $5 or something like that.

if you slide the clutch perch towards the center of the bike (towards the bend in the handlebars) and just use the END of the lever, it's even lighter of a pull for two fingers.

it's not that I can't pull a firm lever, but ... why work harder than ya gotta ?

what brand exhaust pipe does your ride have? Maybe you should be using one that puts more emphasis on low end power so that the bike is less like an on/off switch.

bws2 wrote:

6 Riders wrote:

bws2 wrote: PRACTICE
OR
Put a 14 tooth front sprocket on it...That will smooth out the twitchyness that you feel you have.

Thank you 6 Riders. I'll make sure I have a 14 tooth for the next time I ride.

I wish I could get more practice, but I just can't seem to find many other slow pokes to ride with.

I hate to slow faster riders down.

where are you?

look for groups of dualsport riders on Facebook or advrider, there always some cool dudes to ride with that aren't going crazy to just ride fast.

some of my best friends have been found by going on camp n rides. if they act cocky or presumptuous, they're definitely the wrong guys to ride with.... look for the modest folks that don't bs and yap a bunch, but are really just there to RIDE and you'll be on the right track. :-)

I had done everything to my 220. The auto clutch was soooo much fun for me. I don't have the stamina in my arms to do the clutch work required in the tight trails. It made riding better and faster.

I don't think it has been mentioned, but make sure it is jetted properly. Needles can also alter the power delivery of the engine. The DEL/DEK needles are more mellow than the CEL/CEK needles.

[I hate to slow faster riders down.[/quote]
I have a 14 tooth hanging in my garage if you want to try it out.[/quote]

Hey 6riders. I really appreciate the offer. Turns out that I have a 14 on my bike now.

I guess I need to get my carb issues and jetting sorted out, then get more seat time and practice in.

Jaguar wrote:what brand exhaust pipe does your ride have? Maybe you should be using one that puts more emphasis on low end power so that the bike is less like an on/off switch.

I'm running an FMF Gnarly pipe.