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#1 - will all transmission components from an H-series KDX 200 fit into an E-series 200? Gears, shift forks and drum, star, detent arm, shafts, etc?

#2 - what are the exact rear wheel bearings, and are both sides identical? There's a hardware store near my house where I could pick some wheel bearings up for way cheaper than anything sold online, I just need to know what to get

KDXrider1989 wrote:#2 - what are the exact rear wheel bearings, and are both sides identical? There's a hardware store near my house where I could pick some wheel bearings up for way cheaper than anything sold online, I just need to know what to get

Do you have the old bearings? They should have the bearing number on the outer bearing race.

Just remember, with bearing kots, you also get new seals.

Jim B wrote:

KDXrider1989 wrote:#2 - what are the exact rear wheel bearings, and are both sides identical? There's a hardware store near my house where I could pick some wheel bearings up for way cheaper than anything sold online, I just need to know what to get

Do you have the old bearings? They should have the bearing number on the outer bearing race.

Yes they are still on the wheel, which is still on the bike lol, just wanted to see if anyone already knew so I can call around and see if there's any locally so I'll have them on-hand when I do the replacement, or order a set

6 Riders wrote:Just remember, with bearing kots, you also get new seals.

That's true, didn't think about that. I believe my seals are still good though, just the bearings are shot

pivotworks kit off ebay is really cheap

how about transmission components, anyone know if they are interchangeable between H and E series bikes?

You definitely have to watch when buying hardware store bearings When it comes to bearings, you get what you pay for... bigtime. I recently have been replacing my bearings in my quad with SKF bearings (cross reference the part number stamped in the bearing that is currently on the bike). The SKF bearings are 3 to 4 times more expensive than buying some good Pivot Works bearings (likely Japanese origin), but will also last longer. FAG bearings have superb quality as well. (Realistically, SKF and FAG bearings are to expensive to justify for using in a dirt bike. I am just an engineer/nerd that likes to make everything as good as it can be)

Bearing quality has a lot to do with clearances between the rolling elements and the races. Some companies allow a large deviation in size between the rolling elements and that allows for various clearances between element and race in one bearing. Good companies that have better control over their processes, ensure that there are very small deviations between the sizes of the rolling elements in one bearing. This allows for far better wear, and a "tighter" bearing that will last much longer.

I also feel the need to tell everyone that I know not to buy All-Balls bearings . Those are some super low quality bearings and do not last me 1 full season of riding. If I were you, I would stick with some Pivot Works or OEM bearings. If cost is in issue, I always do a quick search in Ebay for the OEM part number that I am looking for. I would say that 7 or 8 times out of 10, you can find the part you are looking for on there cheaper than anywhere else (surplus inventory parts, excess inventory parts, someone selling leftover parts, etc...). Also, with the Pivot Works bearings, they will replace your bearing one time once it wears out at no cost to you. I recently tried this on some ATV bearings and the exchange process went very smoothly.

Tyl3r wrote:I also feel the need to tell everyone that I know not to buy All-Balls bearings . Those are some super low quality bearings and do not last me 1 full season of riding.

I'm usually not a fan of aftermarket parts (gaskets and seals, in particular) but I installed All Balls wheel bearings on the rear of my KDX six years ago and they've been fine. When I originally installed them I removed the seals, added more grease, and reinstalled the seals. (They come with very little grease in them.)

I've also had pretty good luck with All-Balls bearings and seals, there's several of them on my bike and have been there for at least 3 years, still holding up nicely. but thanks for the SKF and FAG reference, I might look into that in the future

now, how about transmission components, anyone know if they are interchangeable between H and E series bikes?

KDXrider1989 wrote:now, how about transmission components, anyone know if they are interchangeable between H and E series bikes?

Print out the parts diagrams for each and start comparing part numbers?

for anyone who reads this thread in the future, the rear wheel bearings are 6004's. I ended up just getting OEM's, they were the only ones available around here and I couldn't wait to order some

Jim B wrote: Print out the parts diagrams for each and start comparing part numbers?

they will probably be slightly different, I just need to know if they would work. My reason is because I want to replace these parts but rather than paying a fortune for new OEM parts maybe I could slap these in from a newer bike that will work just as good, gearing will be a little different if I needed to replace the transmission gears

mainly interested in the detent arm, shift star, drum and forks if they would fit. something tells me my gears are fine, would they have anything to do with rough shifting if worn?

Jim B wrote:

Tyl3r wrote:I also feel the need to tell everyone that I know not to buy All-Balls bearings . Those are some super low quality bearings and do not last me 1 full season of riding.

I'm usually not a fan of aftermarket parts (gaskets and seals, in particular) but I installed All Balls wheel bearings on the rear of my KDX six years ago and they've been fine. When I originally installed them I removed the seals, added more grease, and reinstalled the seals. (They come with very little grease in them.)

I always cringe when I hear someone say "there wasn't enough grease in there, so I added more". Good bearings have the exact amount of grease in them that they need for reliable service for the life of the bearing. Adding more grease creates more heat (more friction is generated and the grease holds the heat in, rather than allowing it to dissipate) and causes the bearing to fail prematurely. At least that is the case with the larger bearings that we use at work that operate at 3600rpm. Maybe since the bearings in our bikes don't see those speeds, not enough heat is generated to cause an issue? I dunno, after hearing that from an SKF engineer, I do not feel the need to add more grease to a sealed bearing.

Tyl3r wrote:I always cringe when I hear someone say "there wasn't enough grease in there, so I added more". Good bearings have the exact amount of grease in them that they need for reliable service for the life of the bearing.

Except your bearings lasted one year and mine have lasted six, and they're still going strong.

our wheel bearings only rotate at around 60-900 depending on the mph so heat should never be an issueissue.

the normal things I see are water or m mud intrusion that causes failures. doesn't take much (weeds/string/etc) to kill the seal and let water or mud in.

When buying bearings, I always go first to the commercial bearing suppliers in my area. This goes for my bikes or the pumps and motors I fix. All you need is the number code found on the bearing's outer race or shield/seal.

They won't know anything about tires or cables or handlebars, but they do know bearings and can frequently offer different prices for different brands and will comment objectively on quality. It also pays to shop around, as prices can vary. Motion Industries is perhaps the most common bearing supplier here in the Midwestern USA.

The supplier I use most is Precision Bearing Co. in Northbrook, Illinois. Phone # 1-847 559 9961. email: info@precisionbearingco.com
Ask for Larry. Larry told me they will accept small orders from non-industial customers.

And no, I have no relationship with this supplier other than a very satisfied customer.

pumpguy wrote:When buying bearings, I always go first to the commercial bearing suppliers in my area. This goes for my bikes or the pumps and motors I fix. All you need is the number code found on the bearing's outer race or shield/seal.

They won't know anything about tires or cables or handlebars, but they do know bearings and can frequently offer different prices for different brands and will comment objectively on quality. It also pays to shop around, as prices can vary. Motion Industries is perhaps the most common bearing supplier here in the Midwestern USA.

The supplier I use most is Precision Bearing Co. in Northbrook, Illinois. Phone # 1-847 559 9961. email: info@precisionbearingco.com
Ask for Larry. Larry told me they will accept small orders from non-industial customers.

And no, I have no relationship with this supplier other than a very satisfied customer.

yuppers, i use motion industries a lot. they ALWAYS have the bearings on hand that i need, and it's cheap enough to buy an extra set to put on the shelf for the next time they need changing, on a sunday morning, when no one is open, right before the next epic ride

like today ;-)