KDXRIDER.NET

I recently tore into the engine to find out why I couldn't kick over, only to find that the spring had popped out of its hole and stopped up the gears. I bought a new spring and just installed it. It kicks, but won't return.

Is there a special way it needs to be installed, or do I need to add oil to the crankcase for it to return?

I replaced my kickstart spring last year as it popped out a couple of times & was rubbing on the clutch cog wheel.....it made a strange noise that made me think the water pump bearing was whining !

I replaced the nylon collar too while it was apart, the spring wasn't the easiest thing to fit/install so you may find its popped out again.

cornishwrecker220 wrote:I replaced my kickstart spring last year as it popped out a couple of times & was rubbing on the clutch cog wheel.....it made a strange noise that made me think the water pump bearing was whining !

I replaced the nylon collar too while it was apart, the spring wasn't the easiest thing to fit/install so you may find its popped out again.

It's in there and working when I kick down, but it won't return. I'm wondering if it needs to be lubed by the crankcase oil in order to function properly?

I think there's a very thin washer that goes on the end of the nylon bush?

Perhaps it's fallen off when you removed the side case, if so then when you bolt down the casing this would stop the bush & spring from returning .. Also if the washer has fallen off inside then it could end up munching something.....check your workshop manual or online manual to see if there is a washer.

That nylon spacer has a notch in it . Make sure the spring seats in it going into the shaft.

Collar is in and notched correctly, as is the washer on top of it. I guess I'll take the cover off again and fool around with it until it works right. What a pain in the ass. KTM with electric start, please.

I just went through this a few months ago. It most likely is the nylon collar is not fully seated. I took mine apart about 4 times before I realized that the collar was not completely seated. It looked like it was, but was not. After the 4th try what I did was to mark the where the notch is with a Sharpie marker and then with the kicker spring and shaft out of bike pushed the collar completely down and then marked the spring. It makes it easy to see that it is completely down. I was surprised when I first put it back in it seemed seated but was one coil to high. Tapped it with a piece of PVC down and then reassembled. Has worked fine ever since.

It was fully seated, I checked. Washer was on, etc. I'm now wondering if I need to have the Kickstarter shaft in a particular rotation. Upon installing, I've been lining the hole on the shaft up with the spring so that I slide the spring on, fit it into the shaft hole, and then the outer prong fits right into the case hole. Basically, it's sliding right on without me having to stretch the spring. This is driving me insane.

Pretty sure that you should have to be tensioning the spring.

While I haven't had to go into my KDX's kick starter as yet, but to expand on 6 Rider's post...

My experience with other bike's kick starters is you have to "wind up" the spring, kind of like how you would wind up a clock, to get enough tension to reliably return the KS lever. I've found that one turn from static is enough to return the KS lever to it's full upright position. Your mileage may vary.

pumpguy wrote:While I haven't had to go into my KDX's kick starter as yet, but to expand on 6 Rider's post...

My experience with other bike's kick starters is you have to "wind up" the spring, kind of like how you would wind up a clock, to get enough tension to reliably return the KS lever. I've found that one turn from static is enough to return the KS lever to it's full upright position. Your mileage may vary.

Thanks guys. So, it's come to my attention that I'll need to remove the clutch in order to get enough leverage on the spring to wind it up. The "arm" of the spring that sticks out and pops into the hole in the case cannot surpass the clutch, unless I install it the way I had been, with the "arm" already turned below the clutch. But apparently that way that I was installing it gave it no pre-wound tension.

Any suggestions on the best way to do this––with or without clutch? Can the "arm" be installed first and then the inner spring prong be twisted and inserted into the hole in the KS shaft?

Does the rotation of the piston have anything to do with what position to set the kickstarter shaft at? And can I put the spring in without removing the clutch?

I cant remember it you need to remove the clutch in order to install the spring tab into the casing ?.....if it pops out with the clutch installed then surely it can pop back in again?.....I used a boot lace to loop around the tab then pulled it toward the hole & hey presto it went in...you could use a exhaust spring removal tool to do the same....just use a new case gasket if its been off a few times as it will only leak, a smidge of grease on the gasket will help seal things & it you DO have to remove it again then you should be able to re-use it after.

I popped the clutch off and it was super easy––I wound the spring almost a full rotation before setting it in the hole, and the thing snaps back up like a pogo stick. If only I could get my damn clutch to work now...

I just bought a neglected 1987 KDX200 with a 240 kit on it. The kickstarter slips, sometimes. I have removed the clutch, but the starter shaft will not come out. What is the trick? I have no manual. Is there one online, cheap?

Hi. Welcome to the forums.

I can't remember off the top of my head about how it looks.

You should be able to find a 1987 KDX200 owner / service manual on eBay for less than $20 shipped. I would give a word of advice. It has a green cover, not white. Some sellers think the 1988 manual is for 1987.

Funny this old thread came to life just as I was about to ask similar questions. I was wondering, is it normal to have this much play in the shaft? This is with the spring off, of course.

Probably normal. The opposite side of the shaft is held secure when the clutch cover is installed so that would reduce most of the play.