Got some More Questions..... Stator and Other Parts.

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jafo
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Got some More Questions..... Stator and Other Parts.

Post by jafo »

OK, I need some education on the stator and identifying som other parts and how they work.

First, I took the stator cap off to re-seal it and make sure there was no oil leaking into the compartment. It was bone dry but signs of rust were there but not bad. There is four torx head screws holding on the magnets, then there are three phillips head screws in slots that hold everything in place. Is this how the bikes engine is timed? There is an arrow on the part that has the screws and slots in it. It's pointing counterclockwise. If this is how you time the engine, which way is advance and retarding the timing? I was wondering about the timing because of the pinging I was getting awhile back. The black plastic box thats between the magnets, is that like a pickup coil???

Ok, next is identifying the ignition parts below the tank. I know the coil and plug wire :mrgreen: , but what is the box above the coil? It has two fast connects going to it and some other wires that are made into it that ground at the coil bar.
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Post by jafo »

Anyone????

Jon.
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Post by Indawoods »

Ok, next is identifying the ignition parts below the tank. I know the coil and plug wire , but what is the box above the coil? It has two fast connects going to it and some other wires that are made into it that ground at the coil bar.
Well... It sounds like your voltage regulator or the CDI box. Where do the wires lead too?

Also ... you probably shouldn't mess with the timing too much. It should be right unless someone else has messed with it. Never use ethanol enriched fuel and use the highest octane pump fuel you can find. I use 92-93 octane.

You REALLY need to buy a manual for your bike if you are serious about identifying all the parts and know your bike well.
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Post by skipro3 »

Also, check out http://www.buykawasaki.com as they will have a complete break down of all the parts. The shop manual is much better though. Trying to guess which part you are looking at to which part we might THINK you are looking at is just going to get you confused, hence the manual. If you were to, say, ask about a part on a particular page of the manual, then we could look at the same thing.
For example, I'm not sure what you mean by a stator cap. To me, a cap is usually short for capacitor. Especially when talking about electronic or electrical things. In your case, I think you mean the fly wheel cover on the left side of the engine in front of the shift lever, but I could be wrong. Sorry I couldn't be more help. :cry:
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Post by jafo »

I just bought one for my bike off ebay yesterday. I knew i needed one, but just have put it off till now.

well, I have seen some of these parts on the flywheel side labled stator parts so the cover thats on that side I just labled stator cap because it incloses the stator parts???? Yes I do mean the flywheel cap or cover.

The wires that go from the plastic box between the magnets goes up to an electrical part above the coil if I remember correctly. It looked to have been moved. The three slots to adjust are about an inch long. The screws for the slots are all at the ends of the slots telling me it's been moved for some reason. I backed it off alittle. having messed with warmed over racing engine for years, the detonation sounded familiar like the timng was to far advanced. You get the same thing in a car under a load in other words.

Thanks for the try guys, I'll come back to this when I get my manual.

Jon.
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Post by m0rie »

On the newer KDX's there are three timing marks in the left hand corner of the ring. The triangle on the stator ring should be right on the middle mark. Don't know if the earlier KDX's are setup that way though.

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Post by skipro3 »

It's just been too long since I owned a 84. Sorry I couldn't be more help.
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Post by KDXGarage »

Nice to hear you got a manual. It will make repairs go a lot easier and quicker.

I usually look on the http://www.buykawasaki.com website to see what Kawasaki calls the parts, then I just call it what they call it.
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Post by m0rie »

BTW a picture is worth a thousand words in a situation where your trying to identify parts. If possible a clean picture can help the troubleshooting process immensely. Failing that as Jason pointed out the http://www.buykawasaki.com website has online parts diagrams that should cover most of KDX's back into the early 80's. Save the pic and scribble on it. Then upload to your gallery! :mrgreen:

-Maurice
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2007 TTR-50E
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Post by jafo »

Thanks again Jason. I was looking all over for a site like that. It will help amensley!

Maurice, I was thinking the same thing. I have a few days off next week, so i"m going out next week and try some new trails I have'nt been to yet down around Columbia, Missouri. We'll see how it works out. I'm taking extra tools with me to make any adjustments. I think thats the best way to tune sometimes.

Thanks again guys!
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Post by skipro3 »

Good plan jafo. Doing the adjustments right in the field will aid you tremendously. Take one of those pocket note pads and a pencil as well. A few notes so you can pass on your experiances and findings to the rest of us.
Say, I just saw on the news that it's COLD out there in the midwest. I wonder how that might affect performance?
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Post by jafo »

It depends on how cold. I prefer temps in the 40 to 50 degree range to ride, and of coarse no wind please with plenty of sunshine!

I figure that with the temps being where they are now, it would affect the jetting alittle, make it lean. I have since richened the bike up three sizes at the main jet to get the color on the plug that I wanted. Idle is good. I think I've convinced myself that I'm getting alittle air around my intake also. This due to taking the carb off so many times and the rubber being old and cracked anyways. I'll put some good old RTV over the cracks and see if that'll seal it up. Worked last time.

I'll be sure to let you all know what happens. With alittle luck and some skill, I won't come home in a bodycast :mrgreen:

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Post by fuzzy »

I was a little late on winterizing my bikes this year. I did it last Saturday and it was about 25 out. After adding sta-bil, the bikes were a little hesitant to start to say the least. I took then both for a quick spin around the yard w/ the choke on... :mrgreen:

I do have jets for my WR that will work in 20-25 degree weather. I did some riding last January at a little 50 acre place Indawoods and I belong to. I had rebuilt my motor, and just couldn't wait until spring for break-in. Watched some guy jump a creek on his new for x-mas CRF450, and eat it onto rock-hard ground....Totally dislocating his shoulder in the process....Watch out for frozen ground out here!!!!!

As far as cold weather performance goes I broke my motor in using some slightly aged kart racing fuel (VP C12 w/ castor/syn blend @ 10:1). After break-in and still fattened up rich as a PIG the power output (seat dyno)was great! About equivelant to the power when properly jetted for 60deg weather. I would enjoy properly jetting the bike to run in 20 deg weather.....Basically the power output w/ cold, dense, sea level air is vastly greater than that with hot, humid, thin summer air...
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Post by jafo »

Yeh the cold air is good but you have to have the jetting for it. You can run just as good in hot air with the right jetting, it's the amount of humidity that kills you. I';ve played the jetting game for years with my car. You do it long enough and you get pretty good at guessing what jet your going to need on a particular day or night. I eventually grew tired of jetting the carb after the sun went down so I opted for a jet that was'nt quite as good in the day and not quite as good after dark, somewhere in the middle and juast stayed with that jet. But thats drag racing and not on a professional level. bikes seem to be alittle different, and theres a big difference between 60 deg. and 30 deg. I have the jets to swap if needed. The main size on my carb was a 310 when I got the bike. I'm running a 340 size now. I have a 350 size that was just way to much jet for the carb. It blackened everything on the plug. The 340 is a nice tan brown. I think it's going to turn out to be my optimal jet for the bike.

Jon.
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Post by canyncarvr »

re: which way?

Look at your flywheel when you kick the bike. It's prolly moving CCW. So..the stator (the assembly that holds the igniter/sparky coil) moved in the same direction will be seen later by the flywheel, right? That's retarding spark timing.

Move the stator in the opposite direction of flywheel travel (CW), and it will be seen earlier by the flywheel. That's advancing the spark timing.

Be careful if you are advancing timing. Eric Gorr says that while all bikes are different, retarding timing shows a good result in far more bikes than advancing does. You can ruin things real quick with too much spark advance.

Yes...I read your 'pinging' statement. Obviously more advance isn't your answer to that (from a timing point of view). That can also be cause by running too lean, too. ...or bad/insufficient octane fuel.

The color of your plug has more to do with temperature and additives than proper (or not) air/fuel mixture.

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Post by jafo »

I was looking at a starvation on the pinging at first, same as leaning out. I'm kind of looking at different fuel now, also the timing. Timing thats to advanced can also cause detonation (pinging). Thats why I've looked into the timing. I'll check out the manual to see whats going on in that area. That way I can identify any timing marks that may be on the flywheel.

As far as the plug reading, you can tell alot with your fuel ratio by checking the plug. Like one of the plugs I had before I started to fet the carb was so clean it looked new almost, accept for the area around the grounding strap that turned colors due to ecessive heating of the plug. I dropped in a new plug with a richer jet and it browned up nice, no residues, then dropped in another new plug with a jet twice as big as before. Very fat, black plug ran like @#$#@%, dropped it back one jet smaller with a new plug and there you are. Nice light brown plug, crisp throttle, but the pinging persists at high RPM in first and second gear. I'm begining to wonder if I'm not shifting soon enough, dunno. I'm going to try some C-12 or higher and see what that does. You can probably get a better air/fuel ratio reading out of a meter but for now I'll just have to realy on reading the plug. It's true though that additives will show on a plug but in different ways like to low of octane will also. The longer you run to low octane or run the engine into detonation the more errosion will show on the plug. The plug that fouled on me while I was riding was the one that turned colors at the grounding strap and that was after running around in circles at high rpms for better than an 40 minutes or so. Thats where the more I think about it the more I'm thinking a little low on octane or it's something I'm not seeing. Maybe it's just junk gas. I have been running Q-trip 92 octane pump gas with a 40:1 oil ratio. The plugs heat range is another thing I'll have to look at also.

Jon.
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Post by canyncarvr »

Not to 'ping' on you too much...but 'brown' 'light brown' or any other color of plug doesn't mean anything if you're looking for air/fuel ratio indicators.

Skipro3 has some plug pics in his gallery...and the thread currently running on BJHs 220:
http://kdx.woodsrider.net/viewtopic.php?t=195

has Ski's notes about them.

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Post by KDXGarage »

jafo, check out these pictures in skipro3's gallery:

http://kdx.woodsrider.net/gallery/Skipro3?page=4

At the bottom of the page, there are three pictures. You will need to get a lighted 5x or 10x magnifying glass to see down in the plug that far or cut the end off like you see in the picture. Some companies make lighted plug readers. I bought a pack of magnifying glasses that look like jewelers' loupes. It is hard to hold a plug, a light and a magnifying glass all at the same time, but I can get a good view with it. I got the magnifying glasses at Tractor Supply Company on sale for about 60 cents. I have cut a plug before to see what the ring around the bottom was.

Don't try to read too much from what color the easily visible end of the ceramic is. I made that mistake before.
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Post by jafo »

I stand corrected. :roll: Thats the heat range indicators. whoops! I got corrected today by my buddy. I could have sworn the color was the indicator of the fuel ratio. Don't tell me I've been reading plugs in my car the wrong way all this time. Guess so. My apologies. I get alittle hard headed sometimes. Just slap me :shock:

Oh and by the way, this bike does'nt have it's fly wheel! I got my manual today and looked at some pictures of the flywheel comming off, I don't have one of those. So could this whole problem be from the lack of the flywheel? Maybe engine vibration???? I't really hard to really tell if it's cylinder noise or could possibly be comming from the tranny case maybe instead????

Jon.
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Post by jafo »

I see, learn something new everyday. Now that you all mention it I remember hearing something about rings around the porcelin, but did'nt recall that for air to fuel ratios. I'll have to take a closer look at my plug now and see whats up.

Jon.
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