kips clean and inspect

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kdxquebec
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kips clean and inspect

Post by kdxquebec »

My top end is appart now and i noticed the left power valve do not work.

So I took my manual and did the step by step method. But now im am stopped here because I can not remove the shaft reteiner screw.

http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/475053/

The screw do not want to move !! What should I do?

Thanks.
'89 KDX 198cc '03 Gasgas Ec250 '13 Husaberg Te300
*CANADA* LEADING THE WORLD IN BEING JUST NORTH OF THE UNITED STATES.
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Post by KDXGarage »

What have you tried so far? Have you ever had it out before? My KDX250 screw is the same way. I would suggest that you get some e-clip pliers or just jam the clip off the rod and take the collar off, and as many other parts as possible. If there is enough room left, get a hand impact driver and after heating the aluminum from the backside with a torch, after letting it soak with Kroil, PB blaster, or some other penetrating oil, give it a good whack.

GOOD LUCK!! You will need it if you have not had it off in a long time.
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kdxquebec
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Post by kdxquebec »

This is the fist time someone try to take this srew.I have heated with a propane torch but the tip is too wide I think.

I will remove the collar to have more space to work . good idea.

Btw is is safe to heat this part??
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Post by m0rie »

I ran into the same problem when I cleaned the kips on my last top end service. I ended up using a hacksaw to trim the edge of the screw off so I could remove the shaft. Then I hacksawed a slot across the whole top of the screw and used a large standard screwdriver with liberal amounts of wd-40 to finally brake it loose.
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Post by KDXGarage »

I meant to heat the backside of the aluminum, not the screw. Did you get that?
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Post by kdxquebec »

ok! I see The place you are talking about. I will try to heat there.

m0rie!!!!!!!------- I will try your solution when the philips head will be rond-off! Thanks.

Well...this screw is a bummer! Alen key should be better!
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Post by Indawoods »

Or just buy a 95 and up and there will be no stinkin' screw! :grin:
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Post by kdxquebec »

yeah you are right but I will have to deal with those marshmallow ruber bushings on the top fork clamps!! :mrgreen:

twist and shout ....lalalala :razz:

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Post by Indawoods »

Who runs KDX forks? :grin:

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Post by kdxquebec »

doh! :prayer:
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Post by KDXGarage »

OK, back to the topic at hand. Do you have a hand impact driver, kdxquebec?
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Post by kdxquebec »

No. I do not.

I will try to find a impact driver.

For sure, this method should work and the srew head is still in good shape.

Btw...I removed the D shaped aluminum spacers. (3) and the left valve seems to be alive .???? anyway I have to look deeper.

A little carbon build-up is living under them.

I need to remove this bolt to clean all the system :neutral:
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Post by KDXGarage »

If you have some penetrating oil, lay the cylinder on its side and let it start soaking. Go buy a hand impact wrench (not an air impact wrench), then try it. Don't waste your time or the screw's head by using a normal screwdriver.

If you use heat, don't heat the screw, as you are not wanting it to expand and get tighter. It's the aluminum around it that you want to expand.
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Post by canyncarvr »

I have KX forks...with marshmallow rubber bushings on the top clamp!

I apologize for the interruption. :neutral:

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kdxquebec
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Post by kdxquebec »

Hi everybody.

I took off the bolt with my friend impact driver. OUFF.......!!!!!!!

The left pover valve gears is totally worn.

All the others parts are still in good shape. I cleaned all the carbon deposit in there.

Again I have to order parts! :mrgreen:
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Post by KDXGarage »

Hey, all right! I am glad to hear you got it off. :supz: Sorry to hear that there are some worn parts, but now you will at least know everything will be OK when you get it put back together.
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Post by kdxquebec »

yes. Also I have the oem manual shop. It helps a lot when you do someting for the first time. This forum helps a lot too! :supz:
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Post by m0rie »

Another thing to look for while you have the top end apart is to make sure the hole the kips valves go into is still completely round. If its egged out you need to fix the shape of the hole or your new kips drums won't last very long.
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Post by kdxquebec »

Ok thanks I will check that. :razz:

Do I have to check for others special things?
'89 KDX 198cc '03 Gasgas Ec250 '13 Husaberg Te300
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