KDXRIDER.NET

Calling all KDX gurus for advice!

I'll give the full story for better background

Last weekend I replaced the top-end on my 2006 KDX 200 for the 1st time. I have a manual and followed it to the nth degree. After everything was installed and hooked up the bike started 2nd kick, success!
I then proceeded to rev the bike a bit to see if the KIPS is functioning properly, and nothing. You can see that the kips is trying to move but it didn't/couldn't.

I double checked to see if I installed the KIPS correctly and it was fine. I opened the governor/PV spring next to the clutch and everything was fine there as well.

The only thing that might be wrong that I can think of is that the right hand sub valve rod struggled a bit to go in. (The one with the O-ring)
The one below:


Now I'm guessing that this is causing too much friction on the system.
Has anyone ever encountered a similar problem?
What is the purpose of the O-ring, what will happen if I remove it?
How do you think I can overcome the problem?

When the Left-hand tread nut and "paw" gear on the actuator rod coming from the clutch side is off, I can turn the valves with 2 fingers but it is a bit tight. Do you think this is my problem?

Any advice would be appreciated, thanks.

Did you lube the KIPS parts when you installed them or did you put them in dry? That will make the biggest difference on the rod with the o-ring.

You shouldn't need to remove the o-ring in order to get it to operate correctly.

Yes, lubed everything with 2t oil

KDXXXX wrote:I can turn the valves with 2 fingers but it is a bit tight.

It is difficult to gauge through a post how much resistance you are talking about, but the system does take some effort to operate.

But if you think it is taking more effort than it should, I would take the system apart and isolate each component until you find the part that is causing the problem. Hope that makes sense.

KDXXXX wrote:I then proceeded to rev the bike a bit

Don't hold me to the number, but I think the KIPS starts functioning at 6,000 rpm. So make sure you are revving it up enough to check for proper function.

Thanks for the replies.
Believe me I revved the bike high enough, sometimes the valves open but then they don't close.
If I don't get a "miracle fix" I will go about checking each and every part.

You did not mention, but was that cylinder replated as part of your rebuild?

I had a problem with the bore in the cylinder where that actuating rod goes. As part of the replating process the cylinder went through some sort of pickling process which made any exposed aluminum surface have a rough finish.

I ended up with a sticky KIPS. I fixed it by taking it all back apart and spinning a drill bit wrapped in emory cloth in that bore.

The kips mechanism should move silky smooth when disconnected from the governor.

FYI.
The original manual has an error in it.
It mixed up the left and right sub-valves I believe.
The online version was revised.
Don't know if this is your problem because they should still open.

@Karl, no, I have not re-plated so no problem there.
@Doctor, Yes, I realized the manual as an error while installing the valves, mine are the correct way in.

I guess I have to bite the bullet and take the kips out again clean everything until I'm happy with how smoothly/effortlessly everything turns.

Since you said the shaft with the o-ring went in with some difficulty, I would start there. Any chance you replaced it or removed it when cleaning all the KIPS parts? Not likely, but maybe the o-ring got twisted.

OK, so I stripped everything again last night.
I took off the o-ring on the sub-valve rod and assembled the KIPS just to feel the difference by hand. Man! What a big difference!
Everything turns so easy and smooth when I removed the o-ring, I barely need any force to turn it with 2 fingers. I guess I will start shopping for a similar o-ring but I think the tolerances in there are very tight.

Does anyone know, or can anyone guess what will happen is you run the bike without that o-ring?

It will make a mess if you run without that o-ring. Exhaust gasses will be going straight into the RH KIPS cover where the claw gear is

Keep searching on here for the part number for that part. It is called "packing" by Kawasaki. Other members have found it in years past.
If the existing o-ring is in decent shape there is no reason you can't use it. The bore probably needs to be cleaned out, spooge builds up in there. I'd try some emory cloth wrapped on a drill bit or scotch brite on a wire and some brake parts cleaner.

The KIPS mechanism shoud move silky smooth when you are done.

Thanks Karl, thats what I guessed will happen.
I've installed the barrel on the bike without the o-ring (now its functioning perfect) and will ride it and monitor the spooge buildup, if there is any.
I'm fairly confident that it will be fine because when I took out that sub-valve rod for the 1st time, the amount of carbon build-up was the same on either side of the o-ring, ie the o-ring did not do anything.
Anyway, only time will tell, lets see what happens.

I had the exact same issue with my sons 95. The kips wpuldnt close all the way. I got tired of messing with it and left it. However, when i recently redone the topend i was having the same issue, i just kept messing with it used plenty of 2t oil, lil grease and it popped in nicely. Slides easily, closes fully now. Im assumong oring was getting twisted or something.

KDXXXX wrote: I'm fairly confident that it will be fine because when I took out that sub-valve rod for the 1st time, the amount of carbon build-up was the same on either side of the o-ring, ie the o-ring did not do anything.
.

The observation of no crud either side wouldn't necessarily mean it does nothing, it's stoping flow of the exhaust gas so even up stream of the o ring will be cleaner due to the reduced flow.

KDXXXX wrote:Thanks Karl, thats what I guessed will happen.
I've installed the barrel on the bike without the o-ring (now its functioning perfect) and will ride it and monitor the spooge buildup, if there is any.
I'm fairly confident that it will be fine because when I took out that sub-valve rod for the 1st time, the amount of carbon build-up was the same on either side of the o-ring, ie the o-ring did not do anything.
Anyway, only time will tell, lets see what happens.

Please, keep us informed. Im interezted.

This sounds crazy but my kips I don't think ever worked before today, but I tuned in the carb for the first time using canada daves website that I found on here and my bike came alive like nothing I have ever seen before. Ever since I dialed in the carb my kips rattled. The bike is so fast now I cant believe what I have. So I am sure that the carb tuning fixed it. I never once heard the rattle before today and my bike is twice as fast no kidding. Canada dave it the best thing that has ever happened to me. http://dirtrider.net/forums3/threads/ca ... dx.184671/