Let's talk about "Castor Oils"

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Let's talk about "Castor Oils"

Post by Deseret Rider »

Are they all the same? I've been using Kloz Benol for quite a while now and it's really good about lubricating the whole back end of my bike as it blows out the muffler. I've managed to keep it from dripping out the pipe/muffler junction by stretching a length of bicycle inner tube over that connection but now after a 20 mile ride I can pretty much count on the right side of my rear tire and disk brake assembly being completely covered with oil----got there by blowing out the muffler. All this despite that I am running an approx. 42:1 mixture (3oz/ gal). Obviously it isn't being burned in the combustion chamber and while that might be great for piston lubrication it sure makes a mess. Are there other brands of Bean Oil that actually burn in combustion and don't cause this problem? Should I switch to a different kind of oil all together? PS---the bike runs fine, compression should be good-- a couple hundred miles on a top end job-----and by the way, this is my 96 Yamaha WR 250, not my KDX's which also blow this oil out the back. What to do?
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Re: Let's talk about "Castor Oils"

Post by 6 Riders »

Wait till you see what that does to power valves :vom:

IMO only use Dino or blend of Dino and synthetic. I don't really like synthetic oils at that, seems to me that it eats rubber (or rubber type) of seals.
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Let's talk about "Castor Oils"

Post by canamfan »

I use lucas semi senthetic 2 stroke oil 40:1 just got back from riding in the woods for 90 minutes I see just a little black on the silencer end cap and if you run your finger inside the silencer it is pretty juicy. yum!
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Re: Let's talk about "Castor Oils"

Post by bufftester »

When's the last time you cleaned/repacked your silencer? I haven't run castor, but have run plenty of synthetic with no seal issues, and little spooge once jetted properly. Is there a particular reason you run castor? (availability, price). If not you might try something else. Agree with 6 that if you're spooging that much out your power valves will be nice and gummy lol
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Re: Let's talk about "Castor Oils"

Post by panici33 »

I just started running Klotz Benol and haven't had any issues with it yet. I'm fairly new to 2 strokes and was concerned about the "spooge" as I never had to worry about it on my 4 strokes. I read a lot of threads on here and almost all of them point to jetting with spooge issues, and I didn't read about any issues with Klotz but would be interested to hear opinions. I'm sure it's like anything dealing oil and a motor...personal preference.
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Let's talk about "Castor Oils"

Post by Deseret Rider »

I haven't run this bike for years and did a top end over this past winter. I've had the bike since new and the jetting is the same as it's always been----and no spue problems with it running Chevron's rwo stroke oil in past years. The muffler was repacked and totally clean when I fired it up this spring ---and it started spuing in the first 30 miles running the Benol for the first time. It then dawned on me (I might be a little slow ---even stupid) that it has always spewed out on the KDX that I've been running the past few years and that maybe---just maybe---that oil isn't burning in combustion? Now I'm pretty much convinced the problem is the oil---not the jetting. Which is why I ask the question here in this forum----I did expect that some of you have run this oil and would confirm my suspicion? I will now drain my tank and re-fil it with a fresh mix using another two stroke oil and see what will happen----I expect that the problem will disappear as fast as it started with no other changes-------I'll report my findings when I get a chance to evaluate the new oil mix---------was looking for some recommendations?
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Re: Let's talk about "Castor Oils"

Post by Sullyfam »

It's not an oil issue IMO. I would double check the jetting and you are running rich. Inspecting/re packing muffle is a good idea as it's probably soaked!


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Re: Let's talk about "Castor Oils"

Post by bufftester »

2T oil is not intended to burn during combustion, it's sole purpose is to lubricate the big end and piston. Not to say that some doesn't burn, but that's not the intended process (in actuality the fuel vaporizes in the hot cylinder and leaves the oil behind), which is why ALL 2Ts spew oil to some degree. I remember years ago when I was racing karts everyone used castor, but few were running engines with powervalves then. Castor has been shown to offer no advantages to bottom end lubrication, and only limited benefit to the top end in the case when you lose lubrication (Castor builds up a varnish coat that can act as a lubricant for a short period, but it tends to become sticky/gummy with age and requires more frequent top end refresh, and wreaks havoc on a smooth operating power valve.)
I also realize that this can quickly become a flame issue like "synthetic vs non-synthetic" and that is not my intent, merely regurgitating what I know. (But just for the record, there is no oil better than another, just one that you prefer. A properly maintained and jetted engine will run equally well on pretty much any oil currently on the market). There is however one caveat to that....TC-W3 vs API TC TC-W3 was designed for outboard motors that have no powervalves and operate at low rpms for extended periods. API TC was designed for high rpm motors. You should always try and run TC instead of TC-W3. Also having said that I have lots of riding buddies who use TC-W3 oil and have never had a problem...so in the end it's run what makes you feel good and has worked for you.

As for recommendations I have used Lucas semi-synth, and Amsoil Dominator...now I use Maxima simply because it's cheap and available. I also checked at my local shop today and Castor was 30% more expensive.
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Re: Let's talk about "Castor Oils"

Post by KDXGarage »

Why do so many oil threads turn into this...

You NEED to check your jetting. :oops:
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Let's talk about "Castor Oils"

Post by jjavaman »

I was under the impression that bean oil is way old school,there are way better oils out there IMO that don't cause problems that bean oil does.
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Let's talk about "Castor Oils"

Post by Tioli »

I did a bit of reading on this and going on what I found you could be frightened off using it.
Having said that I have just used up the last of my full synthetic and the next fresh tank load will be maxima 927 which 20% bean the rest synthetic like the klotz

From what I can tell it is still the best at lubricating, burns at a higher temp, more hangs around and it will varnish. The ash after burning is even suposed to be a better lubricant. Can under some circumstances have a separation issue at freezing temperatures but I could not find out is that self resolves when temperatures get above that after a cold event.

I'm going to use it at 45/50 to 1 as its very good at what it does and evaluate when I need to reorder my next bottle of oil. I as a older rider probably spend more time under 6k rpm so my lubricating requirements are low. When I do fang it its just squirts.

Just for the smell

Edit:
Just fired up my first tank of maxima and could not smell any been oil in it. I guess 20% is not enough to cut through the 80% synthetic. I gues I will try the Kolts next time. I don't think I will go 100 % bean as from what I have read is excellent for no powervalves motors that get ridden hard. Other than that you get the down side.
Last edited by Tioli on 01:56 am Apr 05 2015, edited 2 times in total.
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Let's talk about "Castor Oils"

Post by Deseret Rider »

Some very good 'research' and ideas being expressed here---thanks for that. Consequently, I am going to check my plug this morning to see if I am running rich---an idea that had not occurred to me as the bike had been running strong. I'll attend to the jetting first and see where that takes me-----Because I had repacked the muffler with a string of stainless steal mesh 'donuts' instead of the traditional fiberglass it is conceivable that the jetting has, in fact, gone rich.
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Re: Let's talk about "Castor Oils"

Post by Sullyfam »

"there is no oil better than another, just one that you prefer. A properly maintained and jetted engine will run equally well on pretty much any oil currently on the market"

bufftester truer words have not been spoken!


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Re: Let's talk about "Castor Oils"---Update

Post by Deseret Rider »

Iv'w learned that Yanaha no longer supplies the 'lean' needle jet---so there will be a delay in getting the jetting attended to ----But I can get that done with a little more time. Meantime, I've opened the muffler to find very little oil inside so It looks like that must have been just blowing through the muffler without being contained therein. An inspection of the plug did show 'rich' jetting---though I had noted that it wasn't rich enough that I really noticed it when running the bike. My plan now is still to try a different brand of oil when I get the jetting done.
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Re: Let's talk about "Castor Oils"

Post by Deseret Rider »

OK----Muffler repacked and clean with packing contained now in an 'inner tube' inside the can (for sound attenuation) and the entire pipe and muffler sprayed outside with a rubberized undercoating---again for sound attenuation. Sound attenuation was the goal of starting this project in the first p;lace and was evidently the process which caused the jetting to go rich. I'm waiting for carb parts found on the internet which will address the jetting issue. When all is said and done I hope to have a powerful running ----quieter---WR 250. We will see! This might be a long way to go for just a little 'quiet' gain----and it's not like I didn't have anything else to do but then I hope it was worth the effort. Final report to follow.
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Re: Let's talk about "Castor Oils"

Post by Deseret Rider »

OK----jetting is correct and complete now----the WR-250 has awesome power as always. But it's still way too loud----I guess that is the nature of the beast--- Maybe there is a muffler design out there somewhere that would muffle the 'bark' but , if so, I haven't found it yet.
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