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bone7615
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Upgrade questions

Post by bone7615 »

I am thinking about getting the V-Force Reed Valve Assembly and the Moose Torque Spacer Kit for my bike. First of all it it worth it? Will I notice a big difference in the low end. Also will I have to re jet the bike if I do this.
If you had a choice to date supermodels for the rest of your life or ride dirt bikes, would you choose a 2-stroke or a 4-stroke?
frenche200
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Re: Upgrade questions

Post by frenche200 »

I think if you put the votre, you don't need moose spacer because il there à "spacer" on the vf3
i'm French and I don't speak English very well, so, please, excuse me :)
bone7615
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Re: Upgrade questions

Post by bone7615 »

would just the spacer make a difference?
If you had a choice to date supermodels for the rest of your life or ride dirt bikes, would you choose a 2-stroke or a 4-stroke?
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6 Riders
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Re: Upgrade questions

Post by 6 Riders »

Do the Rad Valve. It's worth it and proven! If you have an aftermarket pipe add the valve and jet. You'll be happy right there.
BTW if you sign up for a contest at Boyseen, you can get their Rad Valve for $129.
newbbewb wrote:^what he said.
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*side note...I'm drunk, so try to read what I'm trying to say, instead of what I actually type
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rbates9
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Upgrade questions

Post by rbates9 »

I have the V-Force and I have been very happy with it. No problems and it did seem to add power.

I think I have read a few post where people compair the rad valve and V Force with mixed feelings about both. If you do a search you should find some talk about them both.
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Jaguar
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Re: Upgrade questions

Post by Jaguar »

cheap way for more bottom end power is to advance the ignition.
a reed valve won't make much difference there unless there is a big relaxation of reed stiffness from the former valve to the new valve.
a pipe designed for low end will make a big difference.
another cheap fix is to lathe off a bit from the cylinder base to lower the transfers port duration. That gives better low end without restricting top rpm (because the exhaust port is already generously high) . First check how much squish clearance between piston and head there is. Subtract .6mm from that and that tells you how much you can lathe off. But I wouldn't take off more than 1.7mm. Read about my writeup on this subject at http://www.dragonfly75.com/moto/KDXpowerband.html
Squish band clearances are typically too big and therefore rob power. Factories make them that way because of manufacturing tolerances. Some new engines will turn out with small squish clearance and some with a big clearance. So they make them so that no single engine will ever have less than .6mm clearance. If they didn't then some new engines would have less than that and get piston/head contact after the engine gets hot.
Performance CDI -- KDX motocross mods -- the SR KDX -- expansion chamber analysis---> http://www.dragonfly75.com/moto/
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