My 220 Top End Rebuild

JFortner5 · Post by **JFortner5** » 04:00 pm Feb 07 2015

I decided to go ahead and get the bike torn down partially to get ready for tomorrow. My buddy works at a dealer and has my piston and gasket set so the real fun won't start until tomorrow when I see him. I just took a couple pics, everybody loves pics right?

Here is the head, just like it came off-

And finally the top of the piston. Does this appear to be the factory piston? The previous owner said it was never rebuilt, but who knows.

I decided to leave the cylinder on for now to minimize risking something falling in the bottom end. I'm gonna do that part in the morning so I'll be ready when he gets here.

I've read every post I could find about doing this job and I'm pretty confident I can do it right. I've rebuilt a couple V8's but this is my first 2 stroke top end. I don't have a manual but found the torque specs and ring gap specs online. Any extra little tips for a first timer?

Also I found a good article on KIPS timing so I should be okay there too.

I'll probably snap a couple more pics when I'm deeper in it tomorrow and may be on here begging for help, lol.

s10gto · Post by **s10gto** » 05:13 pm Feb 07 2015

Well I can't tell about the piston being OEM or not ,but I can tell you it looks to be very good on the jetting. The clean parts of the piston is called piston wash. Its from the tranfer ports bringing in fuel. Clean on the ends and carbon in the center is just what you want to see.

The headgasket is OEM.

JFortner5 · Post by **JFortner5** » 05:18 pm Feb 07 2015

Sweet I always wondered about what causes the carbon to make that pattern.

From what I could see with the jug on the plating still looks good too.

JFortner5 · Post by **JFortner5** » 05:20 pm Feb 07 2015

One more thing before I forget, can I use regular antifreeze and water from the hose when I fill the radiators back up?

The stuff that came out looked blue.

IDRIDR · Post by **IDRIDR** » 05:35 pm Feb 07 2015

JFortner5 wrote:One more thing before I forget, can I use regular antifreeze and water from the hose when I fill the radiators back up?

The stuff that came out looked blue.

The blue fluid looks the color of Engine Ice.

I'd flush it whatever way you go. Two or three flushes with regular water, then a couple with distilled water. Instead of water from the hose for the mix, use distilled or dionized water from the grocery store. Buy two or 3 gallons for flushing and for the mix. Don't forget to purge air from the cylinder head bleeder bolt.

Are there any markings on the piston? My stock one had a "B" or "C."

s10gto · Post by **s10gto** » 06:46 pm Feb 07 2015

Engine ice works well. It is ready to go out of the bottle. Auto anti is fine too.

My piston was a C. The letter is a measurement grade.

JFortner5 · Post by **JFortner5** » 08:33 pm Feb 07 2015

I didn't examine it real close earlier but I didn't notice a letter. Could be under the carbon.

A flush sounds like a good idea. If you guys have time, what is the process for filling it up correctly and getting the air out?

I really appreciate the responses so far.

JFortner5 · Post by **JFortner5** » 09:04 pm Feb 07 2015

s10gto wrote:Engine ice works well. It is ready to go out of the bottle. Auto anti is fine too.

My piston was a C. The letter is a measurement grade.

Sorry to keep posting, but it does have a "C" on the piston. When I uploaded them the quality went downhill. Looking at the originals I can see it.

s10gto · Post by **s10gto** » 09:48 pm Feb 07 2015

Thats OEM. As for filling just fill it up then open the bleeder @ the top of head. Its a 6mm bolt that uses a 10mm head. Went it pees just water tighten it up. I then open the top left radiator plug and fill till it pees too. Top off and your done.

JFortner5 · Post by **JFortner5** » 10:58 pm Feb 07 2015

Awesome thank you guys.

A small part of me hopes I find a crack in the piston so I'll feel better about swapping it out. Either way I'll be happy to know I have a fresh top end.

s10gto · Post by **s10gto** » 08:01 am Feb 08 2015

Won't be too

myself. My 220 had only about 12 hours on it a I found a hole. Very thin castings.

jjavaman · Post by **jjavaman** » 11:35 am Feb 08 2015

I did mine last month, the stock piston was in great shape,what are ya gonna do, piece of mind. I posted pics of the 2 pistons side by side for comparison .

6 Riders · Post by **6 Riders** » 12:30 pm Feb 08 2015

I did my son's in Dec, didn't see anything wrong with his either, but why would I risk it

JFortner5 · Post by **JFortner5** » 01:24 pm Feb 08 2015

I paused from scraping carbon off the power valve to post this. So glad I did this....

Definitely makes it all worth it.

Just for fun here's where I'm at now-

Going to town with brake cleaner and a small flathead. I can't believe the carbon baked onto this thing.

6 Riders · Post by **6 Riders** » 01:26 pm Feb 08 2015

Soak the parts in simple green overnight, then wipe them off with a rag.
BTW, nice catch on the piston!

s10gto · Post by **s10gto** » 02:53 pm Feb 08 2015

That was close! You have dodged a bullet. I soaked my jug and KIPS in dawn dish soap with super hot water. Worked great with a stiff brush!

JFortner5 · Post by **JFortner5** » 06:05 pm Feb 08 2015

Just to update, I got the new piston in and put the jug and head back on. Got the reeds back on and a rag shoved in the carb boot. I had a few people over here talking and everything else so I called it quits for the day. I should have it buttoned up tomorrow or Tuesday.

GI_JO_NATHAN · Post by **GI_JO_NATHAN** » 07:57 pm Feb 08 2015

Nice!
Scary looking piston.

Tioli · Post by **Tioli** » 01:37 am Feb 09 2015

For a motor that was never pulled down the piston wash looks even and no carbon the head. Looks like a happy motor. As said already good catch with the piston.

Post by **KDXGarage** » 01:59 am Feb 09 2015

Good catch indeed!

Here is what I like on power valve cleaning. DO NOT let it set on aluminum for over 10 minutes or so. Rinse and repeat.

http://www.easyoff.us/ovencleanersoluti ... leaner.php

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