How to Modify Tusk Dual Sport Kit

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How Should I Wire This?

Postby Mayor Brap Brap » 02:14 pm Feb 16 2015

pumpguy wrote:Mayor,

Just curious if your state requires electric turn signals to be road legal? For motorcycles, my state, Illinois, does not, but does require an electric powered horn.

So for my conversion I installed an 85W lighting coil to the stator, front and rear hydraulic brake light switches, a UFO enduro rear fender with tail and stoplight. The bike came with an after market 35W incandescent dual filament headlight. For the horn, I found a cheap Chinese 12V job, and am powering it with a rechargeable 9.6V 1000mAh Ni-Mh SANYO RC car battery that only weighs 4 oz. (<www.batteriesamerica.com> Makes a good loud beep, although I can't say how long it will last before it needs recharging. Of course a mirror was added too.

So, unless you must have turn signals, this might be a good way to go. The RC car battery comes with a set of plug-in leads. Along with the battery, I got 2 supply lead plugs, one for the bike, and 1 for the charger. For a charger, I had a 12V DC 300mA power supply laying around that works just fine. The output is a concentric plug, the center is + and the outside is -. For charging, just stick the red wire in the center hole, and use a spring clothes pin to hold the black wire to the outside. The standard charging rate for this battery is 14 hrs @ 100mA. Fast charge is 2 hours @ 550mA.

Hope this helps. Good luck.


Thanks!

My goal is to run everything from the battery and have the stator charge the battery as I ride via the regulator/rectifier. I rewound my stator, which should put out about 75-85W, but I'm interested in the effectiveness of that power output in terms of keeping the battery topped off. If I went with a large battery, would the ~80W from the stator be enough to keep the battery charged? Just trying to find that Ah sweetspot.

Also, I'm in Maine and need to have turn signals. They're not sticklers during inspection and will not care if anything's DOT certified. But I'd like to err on the side of caution and be able to have everything turned on without the engine running for inspection. I'll have LED everything--turn signals, brake/tail light, headlight, and a 12V horn.

So right now the two major questions are what size battery to do the job of powering roughly 40W of total power, and what is the largest battery I can fit in that will be effectively charged by the stator.

Once I've figured that out, I'll buy a battery, mod the airbox to fit it, and do a big writeup to help others. :partyman:
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How Should I Wire This?

Postby IDRIDR » 02:52 pm Feb 16 2015

I can't answer your question on battery size. Since you don't need storage for starting, it seems limited storage capacity should work provided you have sufficient charging capacity. If the charge is insufficient, the battery will just dwindle.

I picked up a couple of these to install on the KLX and KLR dashes. Keep an eye on battery level.
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Re: How Should I Wire This?

Postby Mayor Brap Brap » 04:10 pm Mar 09 2015

I have an update for you all. The battery I recently ordered came in today, as well as some crimp terminals. It's a 12V 3.5Ah SLA. It adds weight, but will last a hell of a lot longer than NiMh. While I'll have to wait and order an open barrel crimper for some of the connectors, I dropped the battery in the airbox to size it up. Perfect fit. I'll fabricate some sort of battery tray so it fits snugly and securely.

I just wanted to check and see if I'm going about this the right way.

Image

The goal is to connect the two yellow from the stator (one is floated ground) to the Reg/Rec, and the + and - from the Reg/Rec to the battery. I have a 3-way bullet female bullet connector that I'm going to put on the + and - lead wires. This way I can connect the Reg/Reg wires, Tusk wiring harness wires, and have a spare for a Trail Tech Vapor.

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A better look at the battery. It even came with a charger!

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I need to order that special crimper and Tusk Enduro kit to finish the job. When the funds become available I'll add the Vapor.
Last edited by Mayor Brap Brap on 10:03 am Mar 10 2015, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: How Should I Wire This?

Postby bufftester » 05:06 pm Mar 09 2015

You're headed the right direction, just remember that all your lighting circuit must be grounded to battery (-) and not frame as it is stock.
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Re: How Should I Wire This?

Postby Mayor Brap Brap » 10:02 am Mar 10 2015

bufftester wrote:You're headed the right direction, just remember that all your lighting circuit must be grounded to battery (-) and not frame as it is stock.


Thanks! I think the Tusk kit grounds everything back to the battery, but I'll see when I get it in. Is there a way to convert the stock headlight to a hi/low dual filament setup? The Tusk kit is setup for that.
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How To Add a Sealed Lead Acid Battery to Lighting Circuit

Postby pumpguy » 12:11 pm Mar 10 2015

Nice looking installation.

Don't mean to be critical or negative, but are those small holes the only source of inlet air to the air box? From the way it looks to me, the total cross section open area appears far less than the stock air inlet with snorkel. I would expect this to have a negative impact on engine performance. You may need to find a way to allow more air to enter the air box.
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Re: How Should I Wire This?

Postby 6 Riders » 12:16 pm Mar 10 2015

Mayor Brap Brap wrote:
bufftester wrote:You're headed the right direction, just remember that all your lighting circuit must be grounded to battery (-) and not frame as it is stock.


Thanks! I think the Tusk kit grounds everything back to the battery, but I'll see when I get it in. Is there a way to convert the stock headlight to a hi/low dual filament setup? The Tusk kit is setup for that.

Yes the Tusk kit grounds to batt.
I converted my stock headlight by replacing the stock socket with a dual beam (H/L) socket. I had one lying around, so I'm not sure where to get one, but I'd assume you could find one at NAPA or another QUALITY parts house or of course E-Bay. The stock bulb is already a dual filament and you can get replacements at Batteries Plus, a pair is something like $3.00.

IF I where doing what you are, I'd very much consider hunting down an LED headlight, this way you are not stressing the battery at all.
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How To Add a Sealed Lead Acid Battery to Lighting Circuit

Postby 6 Riders » 12:20 pm Mar 10 2015

pumpguy wrote:Nice looking installation.

Don't mean to be critical or negative, but are those small holes the only source of inlet air to the air box? From the way it looks to me, the total cross section open area appears far less than the stock air inlet with snorkel. I would expect this to have a negative impact on engine performance. You may need to find a way to allow more air to enter the air box.

There is more room towards the rear of the bike, the first picture of the battery shows it better.

Will that battery fit under what's left of the lid and above the air filter? If it does, Zip tie it up underneath the lid :wink:
newbbewb wrote:^what he said.

masterblaster wrote:Man 6 riders you rock.

*side note...I'm drunk, so try to read what I'm trying to say, instead of what I actually type
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Re: How To Add a Sealed Lead Acid Battery to Lighting Circui

Postby bufftester » 04:02 pm Mar 10 2015

Yeah, I'd probably ditch the rest of the lid and relocate the regulator for better airflow, but if it works it's all good! LED headlamps would be a good option, more light, less draw. Combine with LEDs in the rest of the system and you should have plenty of overhead
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How To Add a Sealed Lead Acid Battery to Lighting Circuit

Postby Mayor Brap Brap » 03:47 pm Mar 11 2015

6 Riders wrote:
pumpguy wrote:Nice looking installation.

Don't mean to be critical or negative, but are those small holes the only source of inlet air to the air box? From the way it looks to me, the total cross section open area appears far less than the stock air inlet with snorkel. I would expect this to have a negative impact on engine performance. You may need to find a way to allow more air to enter the air box.

There is more room towards the rear of the bike, the first picture of the battery shows it better.

Will that battery fit under what's left of the lid and above the air filter? If it does, Zip tie it up underneath the lid :wink:


Unfortunately, there's jack for room for a battery on this bike, let alone one of this size. I've spent hours experimenting with different configurations––sheet metal, L-brackets, even using part of the original airbox lid, to no avail.

My final solution was to cut a sheet metal housing and wrap it with innertube around the battery. This will help with vibration, and guards it from the nut at the back of the airbox, where the frame bolts to it. Good old zip ties––can't go wrong!

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The vertical mounting position allows for more airflow. I also cut the remainder of the lid down more, added more holes, and relocated the CDI to where the stock regulator was. Everything fits easily under the seat.

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Here it is without the lid portion.

Image

Now I have to figure out the headlight situation. I bought an LED 1157 a while back, but it's too wide for the KDX housing. I am using all LEDs for this. It's almost like it would be easier just to buy a new headlight setup with an H4 socket. Aside from the airbox, I'm trying to keep all of the stock parts in original condition. Is it possible to solder a third wire for hi-beam?
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Re: How To Add a Sealed Lead Acid Battery to Lighting Circui

Postby 6 Riders » 05:34 pm Mar 11 2015

If you are using the Tusk kit, it takes care of the Hi/Lo problem for you (as should any turn/hi/lo/horn switch). You'll run power to the switch, then the switch will have two wires for powering the Hi/Lo.
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Re: How To Add a Sealed Lead Acid Battery to Lighting Circui

Postby Mayor Brap Brap » 03:18 pm Mar 23 2015

I finally got my open barrel crimper in and made some connections. The connectors are from http://www.cycleterminal.com and they are top quality! Those are three-way connectors coming from the battery and will also connect to the Tusk kit and Trail Tech Vapor. The tusk wiring harness and rest of the setup is coming in tomorrow (I'm piecing it together with my own blinkers, horn, etc.)

I have a question on fuse size going from the Reg/Rec to the battery. Anyone know what ballpark I should get for amperage?

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Re: How To Add a Sealed Lead Acid Battery to Lighting Circui

Postby bufftester » 03:39 pm Mar 23 2015

Well a 55W headlamp bulb will pull about 4-5A by itself, with horn, blinkers and tail your probably still inder 10A...15A is where I would start assuming you haven't gone smaller than 18ga on any of the wiring.
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Re: How To Add a Sealed Lead Acid Battery to Lighting Circui

Postby Mayor Brap Brap » 07:54 pm Mar 23 2015

bufftester wrote:Well a 55W headlamp bulb will pull about 4-5A by itself, with horn, blinkers and tail your probably still inder 10A...15A is where I would start assuming you haven't gone smaller than 18ga on any of the wiring.


Yeah, most is 16-18AWG, nothing smaller. I'm probably not even going to hit 55W for the whole kit and caboodle, going with all LEDs. Just doing this to make it legal to connect trails. So maybe a smaller fuse? And isn't the amperage measured from the stator output since it's coming right out of the Reg/Rec?
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Re: How To Add a Sealed Lead Acid Battery to Lighting Circui

Postby IDRIDR » 08:17 pm Mar 23 2015

Mayor: I think you want to fuse for the amperage of your load plus some, not the capacity of the supply.
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Re: How To Add a Sealed Lead Acid Battery to Lighting Circui

Postby Mayor Brap Brap » 09:51 pm Mar 23 2015

IDRIDR wrote:Mayor: I think you want to fuse for the amperage of your load plus some, not the capacity of the supply.


Trying to wrap my head around that––can you smell the wood burning? Reg/Rec power to the battery fuse would have to be based on the total amperage of the things consuming all the electricity, not the power generated by the stator?
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Re: How To Add a Sealed Lead Acid Battery to Lighting Circui

Postby IDRIDR » 10:11 pm Mar 23 2015

Yes. Here's the example. Connected to my house from the power company is a big line. Hundreds of amps. The circuit to my bedroom and bathroom has a 20 amp breaker. Operates the lights, a curling iron, maybe even the vacuum. But plug in another load, let's say the microwave, and the breaker trips saving my wires from frying and starting a fire. The breaker, fuse in the bike, is sized to protect the circuit, not the supply. With leds, the load is less but the wires are now overly adequate. Just be reasonable.

When a wire rubs to ground, or you connect something wrong, the fuse blows protecting the circuits. This may extend to the stator, I don't know.
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Re: How To Add a Sealed Lead Acid Battery to Lighting Circui

Postby hbgod » 12:15 am Mar 24 2015

Fuses are to protect the wires from melting and sensitive computer components. to be safe id run a 10 amp fuse for 18guage thats what im using. a 15 might be ok as well.
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Re: How To Add a Sealed Lead Acid Battery to Lighting Circui

Postby Mayor Brap Brap » 05:20 am Mar 24 2015

Super helpful, thanks guys! I'm just learning all of this as I go. Before I started, I didn't really know what a volt was. Will have updated pictures from most of the Tusk install today. :partyman:
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Re: How To Add a Sealed Lead Acid Battery to Lighting Circui

Postby Mayor Brap Brap » 02:00 pm Mar 26 2015

I got most of the wiring done––just waiting on headlight with H4 bulb and a brake light switch. But everything works! The tail unit is a Polisport and it's by far the best in many ways: replaceable bulb (I put an 1157 LED in there), clear plastic for license plate, cable routes, brake and running light, and it's only $22 at Rocky Mountain. The blinkers are cheap ass Chinese models, but work well and they're green!

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With license plate.

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Now back to the fuse dilemma, I figured that my total wattage will come out to 40-45W (15W LED headlight, 20W horn, 5W tail, next to nothing for the blinkers, maybe 2-3W total?). The Tusk harness came with a 5 amp fuse. 45W on the Amp calculator comes out to 3.75A. Plus, the horn is rarely used, so total amps 95% of the time will be half of that figure. So I'm thinking a 5A fuse would work coming off the Reg/Rec? Not sure how it compares to the Tusk, which is run off the battery.

Will have pictures of the rest and the bike all buttoned back together in the coming weeks.
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